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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Cracking / clicking sound all 4 speakers when car is on and volume is down.
When volume is up you cannot hear the clicking. Clicking is consistently the same and does not change as the RPM changes.

It has been 17 years since I installed last and by no means was I a pro, but this is the first time I cannot figure out the problem. I have spent 4 hours trying to figure it out.

Kenwood -->Metra Harness-->RSX harness (full system details in thread "New System Build") I am only utilizing the Orange, Red, Yellow and ground from the Metra.

1. I assumed it was a ground - I ran a ground behind the glovebox- no change
2. I then ran the ground to the chassis behind the lower kick panel - no change
3. I tried another hu - no change
4. I ran a new set of RCA's from the amp to hu and disconnected all other RCA's - no change
5. I disconnected the front left midrange from the crossover, and bypassed the amp - No clicking anymore - must be the amp? NO (See #5)
6. Connected Iphone to Amp using RCA / 3.5mm - No clicking! :confused:
7. I have tried various combinations of each channel / speaker independently.

The Amp is solidly grounded to the chassis in the trunk.
Power wire is routed on the passenger side, all speaker wires are routed on the drivers side
Radio is mounted in the Radio chassis, and was in the dash but not secured by the two bottom screws. For testing I have had the radios on my lap

Question: Is it okay to use the Metra, or should I be tapping directly into the OEM harness?
Findings: I disconnected the bose amp harness and also the 4 wire harness (power) under the passenger seat. Re-Ran the ground and the noise has lessened, but is still there.

Testing:
I tried disconnecting the ground (from metra to hu) while the ignition was on. of course it didn't like that, but once I turned they key off I heard a very loud clicking noise. it was coming from the Bose amp under the seat! It went on for several minutes and would not stop on it's own. I touched the grounds together and it stopped.

Any help is appreciated. I was so stoked to have this done and then I turned the car on and was immediately bummed.
 

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The Audio Guru
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Are you using the bose at all as it usually tends to be the root of all evil when problems happen with aftermarket audio and the RSX
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bose is unplugged completed - 4 wire power dis and main harness from the amp
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did various things and ticking is gone! Updated internal ground, bypassing Metra Harness. Sanded off paint from ground screw also. Re did front tweeters with correct spades (was slightly temporarily rigged). Upgraded chassis and engine ground to 1/0 and added a ground to the alternator. So not big3 upgrade but close. New Stinger negative battery terminal

Headlights are dimming a bit when bumping the system. I am thinking it might be ohm mismatch for subwoofer as I am using the stock sub (no bose just speaker) until my other one arrives. Let's see if that does the trick.

If not what path should I take? I am using all high quality components and wire (4 gauge power and ground. Ideally both- but should I try for 1/0 positive terminal on alternator or a CAP? - Seems like I need a cap
 

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The Audio Guru
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You never need a cap, I ran 2000 watts with a 2 of the big 3 upgraded (never did alt to battery) and an upgraded battery. Sounds like your other issue was probably more related to grounding issues than anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Loco, I remember you saying that before, and I am not running a crazy system. So when the headlights dim a bit to the beat, how to fix, alternator pos?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ground already upgraded to 1/0. Added one to the alternator also. I have not added an extra to the positive battery terminal which might do the trick, or the alternator directly but I don't want to deal with removing the IM right now, I need to get my car on the road :)
 

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slight dimming always is a chance, did you upgrade the battery and how old is the current battery as my primary upgrade outside of partial big 3 was to a Kinetik HC1400R I got mine when they were on sale at Sonic for 150ish but well worth the upgrade to have more power on tap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I did not, and my battery is crud! I bought it 2.5 years ago, it sat on the shelf for 1 year, went to use it..dead. Had it tested "no good" had it tested somewhere else "okay now". With little use I was using a jump starter battery pack. Last couple of weeks had it charged twice at the auto parts store after using it for the stereo to listen to just a few songs it dies. When they hook it up for testing the initial thought is - this battery is not going to pass, then it ends up charging. It's a deep cycle battery too. I wish it would fail as I have the three year replacement on it

I will look into the new battery is it the BLU model or just HC1400R ?
 

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Go to Sams club and buy the biggest battery.. lol you might have to get rid of the hood prop.. but that helps.. might spend 140 bucks on a 1000 amp battery.
But still it won't fix it. You are looking at roughly 5 amperage draw from regular h1 bulbs.. go led and it will go down to less than half.. around 2.2 or 2.3 amp draw. You will notice a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
LED Bulbs for the head lights you mean? The battery was definitely bad, I finally got a new one although I have not done any testing yet. I am running HID now.
Last I checked there were some heat problems with LED, which ones do you recommend?
 

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The Audio Guru
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I did not, and my battery is crud! I bought it 2.5 years ago, it sat on the shelf for 1 year, went to use it..dead. Had it tested "no good" had it tested somewhere else "okay now". With little use I was using a jump starter battery pack. Last couple of weeks had it charged twice at the auto parts store after using it for the stereo to listen to just a few songs it dies. When they hook it up for testing the initial thought is - this battery is not going to pass, then it ends up charging. It's a deep cycle battery too. I wish it would fail as I have the three year replacement on it

I will look into the new battery is it the BLU model or just HC1400R ?
Blu is the newer version of it, Gel Cells like it tend to be better overall and have a capability similar to a deep cycle with the CCA of a starting battery.
 

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Replace with led lights. Alternators or extra battery's will not fix that problem.
Please explain how Alternators and extra batteries will not fix the problem as replacing with LED's while not showing the dimming, you still have a major voltage drop going on that needs to be addressed and will be starving your amps for power with will lead to them under-performing and in some cases the voltage drops could cause more sensitive speakers like tweeters to have an amount of distortion introduced to them that could damage them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Blu is the newer version of it, Gel Cells like it tend to be better overall and have a capability similar to a deep cycle with the CCA of a starting battery.
Blu is also cheaper :). I contacted the company and was told REV is not a suitable stand alone battery. Several emails later the bottom line is that it is still okay to use but their engineering company is on the fence and could be recommending soon it is no longer okay for battery replacement.

Fortunately I was finally able to get my existing AGM battery replaced. I am in process of doing the big3 upgrade (alternator +). Once I have the car together again if there is still an issue I am going to purchase one.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had an interesting turn of events. That ticking noise comes and goes. After I mess with grounds and such (rear trunk for amp) it went away. Then I added a 12" sub and drove it the next morning and when I turned on lights I had alternator whine. Then it seemed to go away maybe not sure.

Anyway after about an hour my music died all of a sudden. No amp light. Started messing with it and the amp would power on briefly, light would flash about 10 times and then no light. No red light which would be protect mode.

I ordered another amp and let's see what happens. Good times!

On a good note the Big3 plus new battery has got rid of the dimming headlights. Car runs better and starts faster also.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If for no other reason I am updating this thread so I have a record. It turns out there was a ground problem. The ground was working and then stopped working which I have never heard of, but I a no pro either.

Ground moved to original location. Paint removed from body and screw. Shortened ground from 26" to 18". Rerouted power wire and ground near amp away from speaker wire.
Let's see how it works once i get the car running again.
 
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