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if this 1st image is BIG then youll have to clear your cookies I resized it on photobucket after I posted sorry.




only problem is the itr rear sway kinda touches the on the left side





Havint tryed it out yet I had to drive home with everything im my hatch bouncing around. Took me 9 hours to remove the rear seats, and exchange the rearsway, floorbrace, front sub brace and throw in the new rear strut tower brace. That front brace was a bitch,.. maby without a turbo sitting on top of it it would have been more easy. Also the rear strut tower bolts were previously over torqued so i bolted the gaussets on top of the other bolts. After I finished last night my battery took a dump from the lights being on and had to wait till morning to get a new one cause it wouldint jump.
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #183
tons of people put in the rear sway up side down.....:shakehead
 

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So, I just read this thread today...I suppose it goes without saying that putting the DC5's rear strut bar and B-pillar bar really liven up the chassis of the EP3, not to mention the front brace.

I know of some RSX Type-S's in nearby scrapyards; though I've never been to one (gearhead noob here), I suppose I shouldn't pay more than $60 ea for the rear struts and front brace off of a DC5.

How hard is the install for all of these? If I can turn a socket wrench, should I have any trouble?
 

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So, I just read this thread today...I suppose it goes without saying that putting the DC5's rear strut bar and B-pillar bar really liven up the chassis of the EP3, not to mention the front brace.

I know of some RSX Type-S's in nearby scrapyards; though I've never been to one (gearhead noob here), I suppose I shouldn't pay more than $60 ea for the rear struts and front brace off of a DC5.

How hard is the install for all of these? If I can turn a socket wrench, should I have any trouble?

Its not bad at all just be patient. Your going to have to take out some body panels,(probly break some clips) and the rear seats but once you get to them its really easy just time consuming since you havint done it before,.. the front subframe brace was the easy one. All I did was put the front on jackstands and reached through the wheelwell and unbolted those, then got underneath theres 2 10mm bolts mounted to the heat shield, and slid it through the wheelwell which caught on everything, but I have a turbo mounted right above it and it looks like if it wasint there I could have pulled it straight up throught the engine bay im sure someone could chime in on that. But ya really easy im pretty damn excited for the next autocross the car feels amazing with all these little additions no oversteer, or understeer its really balanced, and does what I want it to..:giggity:
 

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Its not bad at all just be patient. Your going to have to take out some body panels,(probly break some clips) and the rear seats but once you get to them its really easy just time consuming since you havint done it before,.. the front subframe brace was the easy one. All I did was put the front on jackstands and reached through the wheelwell and unbolted those, then got underneath theres 2 10mm bolts mounted to the heat shield, and slid it through the wheelwell which caught on everything, but I have a turbo mounted right above it and it looks like if it wasint there I could have pulled it straight up throught the engine bay im sure someone could chime in on that. But ya really easy im pretty damn excited for the next autocross the car feels amazing with all these little additions no oversteer, or understeer its really balanced, and does what I want it to..:giggity:
Wow, it makes that much of a difference? I mean, the EP3 is FWD, it's a pig on those slow, tight turns on autocross. I've got video of my first experiences with what understeer REALLY is...(turn, turn...WHAT THE CAR KEEPS GOING STRAIGHT AAAHHHH *cone*). I'm going away from autocross for the time being, though, and I'm gonna hit up the local club track days, I went with a coworker a few weeks ago and it was so addicting I just gotta try it.

ANYWAY, I ramble. So, you put on the front brace? If I recall correctly in this thread, there were two braces mentioned for the front--one was just a bar, and the other was a full assembly. Did you just put the bar in, or both parts? Hell, what are the parts you put in?
 

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lol the 3 bracing points are the 2 in the picture above of my hatch, the rear strut tower which is 2 gussets and a middle bar connecting the 2 and that aluminum brace right behind the subs,.. then the other is the one I told you about getting it through the wheelwell in the back engine bay. Ive also have taken off my front sway, and added a ctr rear sway, and recently got new BFG G-force tires, and have been on Tein s-techs on stock shocks for 3 years.

Previously the car was not consistant through a turn, it would oversteer, fight for traction(tires were bad), the rear really did not want to move with the car when id enter a turn and was just a handfull to deal with, now I push through turns no issue, its smooth with alot less effort then before.

Heres the 1st autocross I went too, vid is run 3 which I did 49.7 my best final run was 49.1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4r3igXc2QH4
I was in smf and cars ran from 49.98 down to 43.05
its my same car minus the tires, has stock sways, and minus the bracepoints, ill have vids from the next event aug 14-15 with these new parts.
 

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I just picked up some gussets from a wrecked RSX today; it dawned on me that it wasn't a Type-S. Did the Type S have stiffer gussets? Also, did the type-S have the bar that connects the two, or do I have to order that?
 

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Bracka's Bitches Bitches
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Too much info, walls of texts, and little breakdown. Mustclime your first post doesn't really help much either. Sorry.

So, this type r frame brace project.
where do i begin? And in as little words as possible how do i go about getting these?
Ordering from honda or finding a junked type-s rsx?

Bringing this back from the dead in order to recap what parts are needed...

From AcuraAutomotiveParts.org:
ROD, SUB-FRAME PERFORMANCE
74230-S6M-J00

GUSSET, R. RR. SHOCK ABSORBER
74671-S6M-J00

GUSSET, L. RR. SHOCK ABSORBER
74672-S6M-J00


From JDMLand.com:
JDM DC5 Type R rear strut bar
http://yhst-1408381693991.stores.yahoo.net/dcalfrlocoar.html

JDM DC5 Type R B Pillar Floor Bar
http://yhst-1408381693991.stores.yahoo.net/usdc5tyrbpif.html


Is there any mounting hardware (bolts or nuts) that need to be ordered or can all the "stock" hardware be re-used?
or did he nail it on the head?

Something interesting I noticed about the CTR...notice the underseat bracing?

Looks like instead of using bars the EDM/JDM CTR uses gussets.



They can't be found in the states through Honda; but here are the part numbers anyways...

65716-S5S-G00ZZ

and

65711-S5S-G00ZZ
whats this about? new info or old?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #190
Gave you the part numbers and links to places that sell them...guess that was not enought........:dontknow:
 

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So, the rod that goes between the rear RSX strut gussets, that needs to be ordered from JDM land? Also, if I pulled the gussets from a base-model RSX, are they thinner than what AcuraAutomotiveParts.com has?
 

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Bracka's Bitches Bitches
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Does anyone know if Acura part number 74350-S6M-Z00 is the same (or close) as the JDM rear strut bar? I'm honestly not too keen on spending $90 on something so simple, and if the $25 part will get me by with similar results, I'll do it.
No, 74350-S6M-Z00 is the lower tie bar on the RSX-S. It would be much too short for the rear strut bar.
 

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No, 74350-S6M-Z00 is the lower tie bar on the RSX-S. It would be much too short for the rear strut bar.
Oh wow. Thanks for that, I was considering buying it for the hell of it and seeing if it would work.

Just throwing this out there because I'm a cheap-ass SOB: does anyone with fabrication experience think that one could get something like the JDM Strut bar custom made for less than $90? It looks fairly simple, but then, I'm a computer science major: my life consists of letting computers do the work.
 

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In regards to some additional bracing.

I knew the CTR had some bracing under the front cowl but could never find a good picture of how it's setup. Here's a pic of one side...I think the other side is pretty much the same:



I can't tell from the pic but it looks like it's connected to the strut tower. Also I think the LHD model also has this bracing so the windshield wiper motor shouldn't be an issue.

Though from what I remember when I removed my cruise control we don't have those brackets under the windshield...?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #199
good find......:thumbsup:
 

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very good find. I'm almost tempted to remove my windshield cowl. I just don't want to break any clips or retaining tabs while in the process.
 
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