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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was goin through a few threads on the performance forum and some others and I noticed that no one really has threw out bragin rights about what there running in the 1/4 and any hp ratings. Getting my feet wet with mine, finally got 1000miles on her and just curious on whos in the top spot, spare no dirty details. :D I need sum ideas on what combos are working the best.
 

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PM me or IM me if you have AIM. my screen name is KlutchRSX. or you can pop an email over to me at [email protected], and or you can email me at [email protected].

ill be more than happy to point you off in the right direction. what i wuold have done, what i should have done, what i wished i would have done. i see a base model running low 14's is more than reasonable. maybe even high 13's.

i should be seeing low 14's by the end of the winter, early spring.. changing a few things i already have, mainly exhaust system.

good luck
Nick:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
dont tell me Klutch is the only on thats fixing up a rsx for speed rather than show. Any one else have any braggin rights?
 

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EVega said:
dont tell me Klutch is the only on thats fixing up a rsx for speed rather than show. Any one else have any braggin rights?
Yeah, me!:rolleyes: Never seen a track...

MTO was and I think he was getting high14's/low15's.
 

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hmmm, try a head swap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
myeverlovinsir said:
hmmm, try a head swap!
Nah im gonna do some work with the base head like port n polish, bigger valves, shave the head and try a few combos with the cams. Me and my buddy who has a shop are plannin on a custom cam setup and work with diff durations. RowleyRacing (My old grand am is on there as a project car, site hasnt been updated in a looonngg time)
 

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EVega said:
Nah im gonna do some work with the base head like port n polish, bigger valves, shave the head and try a few combos with the cams. Me and my buddy who has a shop are plannin on a custom cam setup and work with diff durations. RowleyRacing (My old grand am is on there as a project car, site hasnt been updated in a looonngg time)
I can tell you that all that amounts to less, alot less! Port and polish and larger intake vales? Not worth it, the head swap is significantly better! I compared both heads, ports, valves, spring sizes, seating pressures and found that the type-s is polished quite well in comparison to the A3 head. The A3 head has some sharp edges and smaller valves/springs etc. Besides all of this, you are still lacking a true 'vtec' (intake and exhaust sides) and better flow off the larger lobes. I am probably the first one to say this to you, but not likely the last. gluk!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok so ur tryin to tell me that a port n polish, getting rid of those sharp edges, larger valves and higher duration is a waste of time and money, considering that all that isnt gonna cost me very much. Only thing ill be paying for is the valves and shop work with the cams. I understand that going with a Type-s head is a proven way of getting the the most out of the base setup but on the other hand theres no1 out there with a base cam yet and my friends shop would be the first. Type-s head swap was on the list considering ill have full advantage with the true vtec and a wide variety with cam selection. How involved was the swap, what was needed? I understand u need the type s ecu, manifold and tb
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I dunno, was tryin 2 get a type s but insurence and car payments were alil 2 high considering i dont have much time for work with being in school. Just tryin 2 make the best of what i got
 

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EVega said:
ok so ur tryin to tell me that a port n polish, getting rid of those sharp edges, larger valves and higher duration is a waste of time and money, considering that all that isnt gonna cost me very much. Only thing ill be paying for is the valves and shop work with the cams. I understand that going with a Type-s head is a proven way of getting the the most out of the base setup but on the other hand theres no1 out there with a base cam yet and my friends shop would be the first. Type-s head swap was on the list considering ill have full advantage with the true vtec and a wide variety with cam selection. How involved was the swap, what was needed? I understand u need the type s ecu, manifold and tb
This would all be gravy to explain and show if EPhatch.com was up and running...fawk! Anyways I have documented all this stuff and I spent $350.00 for the A2 head shipped. The base RSX I believe comes with a 60mm tb. we have 62mm stock and I bored that out to 64. Manifold wise it would be interesting to see where the dual runners start to fail in comparison with this head, but think you need to have the type-r IM, which is stock on the EP. (non JDM)

One interesting thought, I found out on this board that the type-R cams are the same in gross lift, only diff. is the duration. Also, the JDM IM is 3mm wider in the runners compared to the EP/type-S, however it only is usefull in the 8k rpm range and shows slight tq losses in the 6.5-7.5 rpm range. Again, if you want to be type-S, the majority of the problem resides in the head, which is a clean swap. hth;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sounds like u obviously know what ur doin, having the true vtec is sumthin that i really would b happier with and was sumthin that totally passed my mind in comparision with the A2 and A3. Could make it flow alot beter but in the end still wouldnt get the full potential as if it was a true vtec. How did u get ur hands on the ECU, full head, manifold , tb?
 

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i have a couple nice surprises for spring so we'll just have to wait and see =)
 
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