Well as some of you know, I've decided to boost my base RSX. I am almost complete in getting all my parts and will be ready to bolt everything on. But, I need some input from the turbo gurus on this site to help me make sure I have all the parts before I dive into the install.
Here's the parts that I have bought already:
Innovative 75A Billet Motor Mounts
Hondata K-Pro
RBC Intake Manifold
Peakboost Turbo Manifold (Heat Coated)
Peakboost Downpipe (Heat Coated)
Peakboost Dump Tube (Heat Coated)
Peakboost Intercooler Piping (Heat Coated)
44mm Tial Wastegate
Tial 50mm Q BOV
Garrett GT3076 Turbo
Peakboost PWR Intercooler
Precision 1200cc Injectors
Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail & Polished Fittings
Hondata 4 Bar Map Sensor
Walbro 255lhp Fuel Pump
Aeromotive FPR
Braided SS Fuel Lines
Fuel Cage
Hondata Boost Solenoid
3" SS K-Teller Piping w/Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator & Flat Black Muffler
Here are the parts I need to buy (or think I need to buy):
Optima Red Top Battery (for battery relocation to the hatch area)
Competition Stage 4 Sprung Clutch
Competition 11.5lb Flywheel
Quaife or WaveTrac LSD
I'm not sure if there's something missing that would benefit my build or if there's another brand that is recommended over a listed one.
All the parts listed under "turbo kit" came as a whole kit. The guy included them for me. Should I still use them? Is there no harm in running them for my application?
Is there no need for it? I was thinking about it since a turbo runs pretty hot in the engine bay, so wouldn't an aftermarket rad help cool the engine more efficiently?
And ignore the TB, I just needed a new one because I didn't like my Skunk2 one that much.
Hmmm, what battery do you recommend running? I need something that is safe to run inside since it'll be in the hatch and have some cranking power for those -30 celcius days
I can't see that CC Stage 2 lasting long. That 30R will spool quick and probably exceed your power goals. Unless you got this kit for a steal, you should've just gone with a S/C.
But isn't S/C'ing a base a lot of work since the kits don't bolt on w/o custom fab? Plus, after I get out of uni, I plan to build my block and get a new built head to hit a higher power goal.
I ran a red top 35R in my trunk for a while without any issues - about 3 years or so. It was a larger-than-stock battery and never gave me any issues cranking or anything. I'd imagine a 51R red top would be fine too
Though I have heard of yellow top failures occurring occasionally
I say CC stage 4 clutch (which is really a stg 3) 6 puck sprung. that stg 2 is not going to last long
radiator you will be fine, i mean fuck i am at 640whp and running a stock radiator. although now i am having cooling issues but not due to the rad haha
Things that would benefit you would include
RBC intake manifold and a Boost solenoid
I can't see that CC Stage 2 lasting long. That 30R will spool quick and probably exceed your power goals. Unless you got this kit for a steal, you should've just gone with a S/C.
I ran a red top 35R in my trunk for a while without any issues - about 3 years or so. It was a larger-than-stock battery and never gave me any issues cranking or anything. I'd imagine a 51R red top would be fine too
Though I have heard of yellow top failures occurring occasionally
Well as some of you know, I've decided to boost my base RSX since it's way too slow N/A. I am almost complete in getting all my parts and will be ready in the January or February to finally bolt everything on and get it up and running by Spring. But, I need some input from turbo gurus on this site to help me make sure I have all the parts to have my RSX running properly. My goal is about 280-310 whp.
Here's the list of parts I have picked up or going to be picked up in the next month or so:
Innovative 75A Billet Motor Mounts
Turbo Kit: Peakboost Turbo Manifold (Heat Coated)
Peakboost Downpipe (Heat Coated)
Peakboost Dump Tube (Heat Coated)
Peakboost Intercooler Piping (Heat Coated)
44mm Tial Wastegate
Tial 50mm Q BOV
Garrett GT3076 Turbo
Peakboost PWR Intercooler
Precision 1200cc Injectors
Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail & Polished Fittings
Hondata 4 Bar Map Sensor
Walbro 255lhp Fuel Pump
Dual A-Pillar Pod
Gauges
Aeromotive FPR
Braided SS Fuel Lines
Fuel Cage
3" Custom Exhaust: 3" SS K-Teller Piping
Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator
Vibrant Flat Black Muffler
Hybrid Racing 70mm Throttle Body
Mishimoto Radiator, Thermostat, Hoses
Optima Yellow Top D51R Battery (for battery relocation to the hatch area)
CC Stage 2 Clutch & 11.5lb Flywheel
Quaife LSD Hondata K-Pro
Struck-out items have already been bought.
I'm not sure if there's something missing that would benefit my build or if there's another brand that is recommended over a listed one there.
Btw, I will be DD'ing my car and it will be driven in Winter. Just in case, some parts need to be added or changed to ensure a somewhat reliable car.
I can't see that CC Stage 2 lasting long. That 30R will spool quick and probably exceed your power goals. Unless you got this kit for a steal, you should've just gone with a S/C.
I say CC stage 4 clutch (which is really a stg 3) 6 puck sprung. that stg 2 is not going to last long
radiator you will be fine, i mean fuck i am at 640whp and running a stock radiator. although now i am having cooling issues but not due to the rad haha
Things that would benefit you would include
RBC intake manifold and a Boost solenoid
Nice that you got Mello's old kit:thumbsup:
I got the same kit that's chillin in the trunk of my car and my friend's house
I'm also a base and was one of the first handful boosted base's on here:thumbsup:
Looks like you are going in the right direction with what you have so far, just remember shit breaks and be prepared for down times:laughing:
When moving your battery inside the passenger compartment it's important a to use a sealed battery. Unsealed batteries release hydrogen gas and hydrogen sulfide (once this gas makes contact with moisture ((like the tears in your eyes)) it becomes sulfuric acid fumes ((bad news can cause severe chemical burns))). I currently run a 15lb sealed Odessey (680 series I think)but its a lil small in cold weather after a couple years (not enough CCA). But with a 3 year waranty just take it back once it craps out for a no hassle swap. Also I don't like how Odessey has there batteries rated at one CCA in there catalog but the battery itself is marked differently. Braille is my replacement for the next time te Odessey craps out. Also for a trunk relocation use a big wire gauge. Knukonceptz makes a very nice 1/0 cable. eBay for a per foot purchase. Hope this helps.
I don't really know how fuel pressure relates to duty cycle, can you explain? I'm shocked that that guy I quoted said making ~300 whp his duty cycle is 95% on 725cc injectors, I don't see how that's possible
Not sure if 1000's will cut 400-450 on e85 without a return. Pump gas yeah but e85 requires about 30% more fuel to the equivalent of fuel. Why not just run pump
Lol seriously you want to run an e85 setup and know nothing about fuel systems?
It's quite simple, injectors are not the only way to get more fuel...
If you're fuel line is small your injectors will max out faster as it will poor fuel faster than it can take in due to the restrictive size giving you a higher duty cycle.
If you upgrade the fuel line to a bigger size your duty cycle will decrease, run a return system you'll get an even bigger decrease, even adding a higher flow pump will decrease it. They all work together.
My first turbo problem was having 98+ duty cycle at 240whp before 6000rpms when it cut out. Why? Kinked fuel line...
Uhh when did I say I know nothing about fuel systems? I understand how running bigger lines and using a stronger pump will decrease duty cycle, but I just don't understand exactly how running a return line will...
You should be fine runnin 450 with e85 running with 1000ccs and a return line. I think normally people run out of injector around 450-500 on pump with 1000's and no return so w e85 i would probably run a return but i am not quite sure if required
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