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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I'm probably sure this question has come up but unfortunately searching couldn't help find a solution.


So about two weeks ago I was driving in the evening when suddenly white smoke started to come out of my dashboard. I pulled over thinking it was comes from my engine or fused box...but there wasn't anything that was visibly bad.



As I closed the hood I noticed that both my Fog-lights(A) and Parking Lights(B) on both sides were off, even thought they worked perfectly fine before hand.




A little backstory into the wiring setup

As of now, the fog-lights have been spliced with the parking lights to turn on when the switch is turned to the "C" position( see photo). The set did come with the button that goes in the dashboard, but the plug was the wrong one and couldn't find the proper fit.




All fuses have be checked, lightbulbs replaced, and wires inspected to be search nothing was loose or broken...everything checks out. In addition, headlights, high-beams, taillights, turn signals, and interior lights all work perfectly fine.


Has anyone come across this problem before and know a solution or can point me in the right direction to make finding something I may have overlooked?


Thank You.
 

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Some general thoughts:

Unless the setup/kit included all new (bigger/thicker) wiring for the parking lights; the extra juice being pulled along the current wiring is likely too much for the wires to handle safely. When they get too hot; they can burn the insulation and/or melt the wires themselves. A fuse is supposed to be the weak link in that path; being purposely designed to 'burn' first and prevent an electrical fire. If your wiring did burn; I'm guessing that someone has replaced the factory fuse (which is designed with the factory wiring in mind) with a larger one. If so... this is a fire waiting to happen.

Since you saw smoke from the dash; the burning of the insulation likely happened there. If it all still works despite this; you likely have a un-insulated wire under there. And since the fuse isn't protecting the circuit; it can short and cause a fire.

The first thing I'd look at is the dash switch that was included with the setup. After that; I'd check out the wires from the fusebox to the firewall.

Of course... I may be wrong about all this. But if I'm right; you got really lucky. The danger is still there, tho. Don't leave the car with the parking lights on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I checked the cluster and nothing was burnt or seemed shorted...I looked over the fuse box and again no burning or visible shorting...as of now the foglights have been unplugged, yet I cannot find the problem.

Should I unsplice the wires and so would you recommend a better way to wire the lights?
 

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If you have or can link to the wiring diagram; that would be a lot easier to troubleshoot.

I'm wondering if the switch on the dash was the source of the smoke. Also... did you change anything in the kit? Like... did you install brighter fogs or use a different switch? Also... there should be a relay in the kit. A switch on the dash likely isn't big enough to handle the electricity required to power the fogs.

Any photos of the wiring where it connects/splices would help too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, so I took some photos and removed the wires that were spliced to the small corner Parking Lights on the headlights.

As stated above( see A&B), the fog-lights were merely wired to the Parking Lights without connecting to the interior fuse box under the steering wheel.

Here's some spare wires and the dashboard button that was never hooked...any other necessary plugs are missing or never properly fit. They were bought from Ebay years ago.


Here's the lights off

Hand Switch(controlled the fog-lights, cluster, and parking-lights


Parking Lights


Headlights & Fog




Hand Switch turned to power F.L, Cluster, P.L (notice the cluster is on in the background


P.L are not powered nor the F.L( when they were plugged in)



Handswitch turned to power H.L, Cluster, P.L & F.L (Cluster is still on)


Headlights are working but not the Parking Lights


Just showing Turn Signal, High-beams, and Headlight all turn on



Both fuse boxes( nothing was changed to either boxes and fuse No.2 has been changed for a new 10 fuse in case)



My confusion is that the No.2 fuse powers a number of lights and works perfectly fine, yet it doesn't seem to send power to the P.L.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
***Side Note***

All the interior lights work such as the Door Light, A/C instruments, Radio, Cruise Control, etc.
 

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Just to be clear... those lights on the side of the headlight are, in the manual, known as 'front side marker lights'. The 'parking lights' are the ones in the front part of the lens; according to Honda.

So... I'm pretty sure that, since the fuse is good and all the other stuff is working, your wiring to the front side marker lights is damaged. Since it's not blowing a fuse; it is probably not shorting out. But the fault could be the power wire or the ground wire.

I'm not sure where the individual wire that goes to the marker lights branches off of the harness or the fusebox. But that's where ya' gotta' start tracing the circuit. It could be a burned wire or a pinched wire (power or ground) that's not allowing current to flow.

If you have a multimeter (or a test light) you can test for current flow between two points and rule in or rule out that segment of wire. Choose 'continuity' on the meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was under the impression that's what they were called, but thank for clearing that up for me :)


As for the ground or power, I'll double check everything again just in case I missed something. :thumbsup:


Thanks for all the help and advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I checked the switch and everything seems ok...connectors don't look burnt or corroded. I did a reading of the plug and get about 404-406 Ohms( hope its normal). I'm thinking if the switch was the issues, the speedometer( dashboard cluster) would not light up as well...but is working just find.


Would you two suggest that it is a bad wire?
 

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If it were me... I'd measure the reading at the bulb sockets with the light switch set to 'on'. If there is power; you have bad bulbs. If not; then start working from the sockets backward up toward the harness.

Since there was a wire splice or tap.. I'd check that area very carefully after testing the sockets for voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On the front left plug I'm getting 005 ohms and right 002 ohms...I'm assuming that is bad and losing power some where correct
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I did a couple of tries and the results are these;

Left Side

DCV 0.00
DCA 0.32

Right Side

DCV 0.00
DCA 0.24

Each reading was set to 20 on the multi-meter
 

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Discussion Starter #16


As a side note I also have side markers that are spliced with front side markers and turn signal...yet the turn signal works perfectly. I will be disconnecting the side markers in hopes that maybe it is the reason no power is being sent to the front side markers.

Will post results asap
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Removing the wires connecting to the turn signal and front side marker(parking light) seems to not change anything...so I think a wire is bad or maybe a fuse somewhere.

To double check the plugs, I use some alligator clips and use the car battery for a quick test and both work just fine.


I'm beginning to lose hope and pray for a solution soon :pray:


Wiring images credit goes to LeathalRSX
 

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Discussion Starter #18
*****Update*****

After some further inspections I stumbled upon this sight...this was located under the steering fuse box.

(Image is huge, sorry if you click to zoom)



Thinking this might be the location of the problem...I hope it won't be a headache to repair, looks like a green plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So I pulled the fuse box out and looked at the wires and it seems that a good length of A and B have been melted beyond the inside on the car and I can't examine into the engine...B wire seems to have melted the copper to the point that it cut in half, cutting the flow of current.



I took the alligator clips and did a test read and shows there is about 16( when the key is on) and 18( when the car is running) on the DCV...when I remove the alligator clips that reconnect the B wires to the plug I got 000.


My question is should I reconnect the B wire with a butt connector/ solder with electrical tape to cover up as much exposed A and B wire OR try and replace the entire lengths of A and B with new wires starting from the fuse plug and ending with the front side marker plugs on the headlights( fog lights will no longer be tapped into the front side markers).

**Side Note**

All other wires are fine and have not been visibly melted by A and B.
 
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