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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After owning an rsx-s and seeing the power in k series; I figure it was time to get rid of it and go for some more power. Decided to do a frank build and put it into a hatchback civic. After all the thinking and planning to build a motor for a daily driver racing street car, I finally ended up with this set-up. Let me know what you guys think about this set-up or if you have any suggestions :)


Motor:
  • k24a1 bore to 87.5mm
  • Wiseco pistons 12.5:1 compression
  • k1 technology rods
  • Stock crank polished and grinded out
  • New k20a2 oil pump (anyone knows how to modify this??? let me know)


This is block after I got it back from the machine shop sitting in the garage being ready to be built.




This evening I just ordered the following from items for the head from Brian up at clubrsx. Cool dude help me with most of the stuff :up: Should have this all in by wednesday. k20a2 head is getting polished and ported locally.
  • kelford stage 2 cams - wanted stage 3 but couldnt find them :(
  • Kelford Beehive Springs and Retainers
  • Supertech Intake and Exhaust Valve Seal Set (16)
  • Supertech Intake Valve Guide (single Guide)
  • Supertech Exhaust Valve Guide (single Guide)
  • Supertech 7° Retainer Keepers (32)
  • Supertech Single Intake Valve (36mm; Flat)
  • Supertech Exhaust Valves ( 31mm; Flat)
  • ARP K-Series Head Stud Kit
  • Competition Clutch 'Stage 4' Clutch & Ultra Lightweight Flywheel Combo
 

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armchair engine builder
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cool looking build. are you going to be running this on 93 octane? You might want to check the actual static compression after the machine work to the head / block and the flat valves. You shouldn't have to make any changes to the oil pump since it's going on a k24a1 block. You'll still have to plug the extra oil jet in the girdle though.

Have you already got your clearances and bearing selection squared away?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
cool looking build. are you going to be running this on 93 octane? You might want to check the actual static compression after the machine work to the head / block and the flat valves. You shouldn't have to make any changes to the oil pump since it's going on a k24a1 block. You'll still have to plug the extra oil jet in the girdle though.

Have you already got your clearances and bearing selection squared away?
Yeah the only type of gas that is going to ever hit this motor is nothing but Shell 93 octane and no other brand. I wanted to run bigger compression but they dont sell any e85 or anytype of racegas around where I live which sucks so i decided to go with 12.5:1 compession on pumpgas. As far as the head goes I got 1 mm over to help with airflow. For the oil pump I was just looking to modify it to rev about 9k rpm instead of 8400; the oil pump fits right in but was just looking to mod for some extra rpm range; and as far as the oil jet goes I was hoping someone will help me with that when the time comes and actually got the chance to get around to it, wasnt sure if you had to do it to the k24a1 block since the oil pump fits right in but I guess I do? As far as oil goes nothing but synthetic oil is going inside this motor. I'm doing everything from scratch to do it the right way. Started from nothing to hopefully soemthing good and going aftermarket/ cometic on on basically every part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cant wait to see more updates! whats your power goals with it and what kinda milage do you think youll get out of it reliably?
as far as reliability i'm not going to beat up on this motor probably time i'll ever rev high is on the dyno, probably track the car once to see what numbers i get from this set-up since i dont think anyone has done it the way i'm doing or i could be wrong; and as far as power goals i'm trying to definately go above 250 whp since the cams alone could put up with that much power. i wish clubrsx had kelford stage 3 cams instock but they dont :( and with my compression and whole set-up from head being ported to block being bore and since everything isnt stock wishing to get to 300whp :pray:
 

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JD Mcboozin
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54 Posts
I honestly don't think it'll be a problem making the 280-300 mark with the setup.my only concern is spinning it to 9 grand.little worried bout rod stretch at that point.did u get I beam rods? Make sure the entire rotating assembly is balanced together and an ati damper would be a good safety insurance to add to a high spinning motor. But I have an odd feeling the power is going to start to taper off around 8300rpm
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i got the k1 h-beam technologies rods, and i thought the ati dapers were only need if you were going past 500 plus wheel horsepower in a turbo or supercharger set-up? so what do you think as far the oil pump i should leave it stock oem instead of modifying to rec for 9k? i figured more rev = more power?
 

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JD Mcboozin
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From what I've learned building na setups the ibeam rods being lighter like to rev better lol and anything to make the rotating assembly lighter makes it saferand easyer to rev.including the ati damper which is light and balanced unlike other crank pullies which I only trust oem and ati and fluidamper....unorthodox racing pulley claimed my old g23.... that and my friend misshifted and spun it a little higher then I was comfortable.but the uneven bearing wear lead me to believe the pulley in mixture with my not getting the crank balanced well enough led tp this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oh wow sorry to hear that, i'm sure i'll get my ati damper asap then lol but that wouldnt have no effect if i'm taking out my ps/ac? i was looking to get a kit ps/ac eliminator from k-proven to gain some more horsepower too and as you can see i got the ultralight flywheel with the stage 4 clutch kit. the flywheel only weighs 8 lbs which should also help me get some more power and closer to my 300whp mark :pray:
 

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JD Mcboozin
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They offer the "race version" that's lighter due to being a single row pulley vs the "street" dual row for the ac and ps equipped cars.but its still light and balanced u don't haveto but If your spinning a 2.4l or hell any motor high I recommend it.I have a friend who spins his 2.5l h23 to 9300rpm but once he got retuned he realized he was wasting alot of time revving lmao.cause he stopped making power at 8150rpm so he shifts 8200-8300 now no meed to rev all day cause u can cause u don't always make power
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Isnt this the hole in the block where you have to blot up and seal so you wont loose any oil pressure?




this is what I got in today from rob at "teamxxx" :up:
87 mm cometic head gasket i will get the head gasket bored out to 87.5 since my block is bored out to the same size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
walked in the door to find out my shipment from clubrsx came in !! :cool:

THE SHIPMENT:


kelford 179 -B cams aka stage 2. due to the fact no one has stage 3 kelford cams aka type c :mad:



this is my oversized valves:
 
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