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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now, we're going to bolt in the new tie bar and LCA's. You do these simultaneously, since the main through-bolt indexes them both. Air tools speed things up on the disassembly, but I prefer to use hand tools for the install. It's easy for things to be slightly misaligned at this stage and you don't want to risk stripping something out with the impact.

NOTE: The chassis "ears" that LCA main through-bolt slide up into may be tight. I used a pry bar to slightly spread them a bit (not shown). Tap the bolt into place with rubber dead-blow hammer.


Thread the main bolt through, but keep it loose. There needs to be some "wiggle room" in order to get everything lined up. Torqueing them all down will be the last step.


Once the LCA's are out, the spring pressure of the rear struts will force down the trailing arms strongly. You will not be able to line up the new LCA and the trailing arm by hand. Use your jack to compress each side.


There will be some trial and error, but fiddle with the jack until the bolt patterns line up precisely. You do not want to cross-thread these!


Install the sway bar, bushings, and lateral couplers. Again, thread loosely...


Sway bar end links back on.


You're done. Now, visually inspect for any interference, torque down, and have a beer.


And, the money shot...
 

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Engineering
Joined
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25,578 Posts
that's the Comptech 22mm non adjustable rear sway bar/tie bar combo.
 

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i eat f00d
Joined
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5,890 Posts
Which Comptech swaybar is that?
that's the Comptech 22mm non adjustable rear sway bar/tie bar combo.

thought it was the 25mm..

to the TS.. which bar was it?? how much did it run you.. and the comptech tie bar that replaced your old Progress plate one.. how much did that run for as well..

btw... looks goood.. and nice write up
 

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pronounced: See-Yo
Joined
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3,732 Posts
thought it was the 25mm..

to the TS.. which bar was it?? how much did it run you.. and the comptech tie bar that replaced your old Progress plate one.. how much did that run for as well..

btw... looks goood.. and nice write up
i got the same set up but with spc lca's. comptech doesn't make the nonadjustable rear sway and tie bar combo anymore (my bar was part of the last batch that they made). ran me $400 shipped 4 months ago. set up is sweet, i need stickier tires b/c my rear slides now.

the weight difference of the lca's is just a few of pounds. they won't help anything. just good for looks. makes ur rear bottom end look more serious.

don't mind my dog in the picture
 

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Weightlifting Master
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3,311 Posts
Hows the clearance with your sway? From the pics it looks fine but sometimes while driving does it ever touch?

From the looks of it I don't think I would be able to run that one with my 3", I have the progress adjustable with it set on the inner (stiffer) settings and its touching slightly and annoying the hell out of me, I'll either try to find shorter endlinks or maybe switch it to the outer setting to see if that drops it down a tad.
 

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Engineering
Joined
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25,578 Posts
thought it was the 25mm..

to the TS.. which bar was it?? how much did it run you.. and the comptech tie bar that replaced your old Progress plate one.. how much did that run for as well..

btw... looks goood.. and nice write up
nah its not the 25mm if you take a look at my bar and his (i have the coaxial adjustable one) you will see that my bar is WAY beefier...but i dont havea pic at the moment so you'll just have to wait :)
 

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Registered
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8,956 Posts
Nice. I'll have to get around to doing this someday . . . But I've got to trade in my early version of the arms for the one that fits the RSX.

One question though: Why not disconnect the strut from the control arm so you don't have to fight with the strut while aligning the bolts for the new arm? Once everything is bolted down, you can jack the strut up and bolt it back in place.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Why not disconnect the strut from the control arm so you don't have to fight with the strut while aligning the bolts for the new arm? Once everything is bolted down, you can jack the strut up and bolt it back in place.
I actually thought of that. It could be just as easy, but doing it my way kept you operating on the same "plane" of action, if that makes any sense. Getting the three holes lined up isn't that tough, but does require a bit of finessing of the jack handle. I'd be curious to see how somebody who does it the way you have specified thinks. Thanks for the comment.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hows the clearance with your sway? From the pics it looks fine but sometimes while driving does it ever touch? From the looks of it I don't think I would be able to run that one with my 3", I have the progress adjustable with it set on the inner (stiffer) settings and its touching slightly and annoying the hell out of me, I'll either try to find shorter endlinks or maybe switch it to the outer setting to see if that drops it down a tad.
I didn't post any "before" photos, but one of the problems I had with the Progress was the clunking against the exhaust. It was really bad on my old Comptech, periodically bad with the current Powergetter. As you know, the problem is that the P. is basically flat right at that spot.

The CT has a negative contour there and I have experienced zero clunking now. That's an improvement, for sure. Oh, one tip: Switch your rear rubber hangers from the OEM muffler ones to OEM cat hangers. I don't have a side-by-side photo, but the cat hanger's holes are centered several cm's closer to one-another, which sucks the muffler up a bit higher.
 
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