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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Long story so I decided to make a thread. I don't know if it fits better in the turbo or ecu section but I chose turbo.

First,

My relevant performance mods:

Greddy turbo kit at 7 psi
RC 750 injectors
Hondata IMG
3'’ high flow cat back exhaust
K-pro


I go to get my car dyno tuned finally, but it's hitting lean cut at random times since I was running the 650cc KAL with 750s.

So before getting on the dyno, I go with the tuner for a street pull to make sure everything is ok and he adds 30% fuel overall and then it doesn't lean cut at all.

I get on the dyno and do a base pull of 200whp/160wtq with A/F dropping to 9 near 5000 or so. Obviously it's too rich. So he leans out the A/F and does something with 30 degree cam angle over the course of 3 dyno pulls.

Now I was getting 240whp/180wtq. Also, he was revving to 7000-7500, since he said it was not making any more past that area, though the redline is set at 8650. Check the attached dyno sheet.

Are my initial dyno numbers within normal range for my setup?

Then the tuner tells me my engine is getting too hot, since the thermostat is stuck closed, so he said I had to come back to get a full tune. He recommended staying out of boost till I fixed the thermostat since that would heat up the engine. I don't know how hot the coolant was getting.

Does this guy seem like a competent tuner?

So on the way home, I watch the temps, and highway cruising ECT is 190 or so, after a hard boost pull, ECT goes up to maybe 195. Then once I stop in the parking lot, ECT goes up to about 207 or so. I take it easy after that.

So I test the thermostat and it seems to works fine but replace it anyway since it was such a pain to take off.

I watch the ECT after the new thermostat is on, and they seem about the same. ECT doesn’t go past 200 even after several street pulls in a row.

Are these coolant temps normal?

So I got the 3 bar map sensor and boost controller, which doesn’t work yet. I’m planning to go back and retune.

What numbers do you think I could make with this setup and how much boost to reach 300whp?
 

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In the works... ^.^; ;
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i dunno .. but shouldnt the cal for 650cc be changed to 750cc since your running 750cc injectors? :dontknow:
 

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why doesnt he change your injector size to 750cc in your kal. Overall fuel trim fucks everything up. Go with more boost and go to a different tuner
 

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4039whp 2956wtq @ 88psi
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those are awful numbers and i dont know if your tuner knows what hes doing....

you should make around 280 around 8psi... and i knew a kid that made about 305whp at 11psi with 650s and a 3" catback

btw change your spark plugs as they are probably fucked after adding 30% fuel dont know how long you drove it in the 9s but i would recommend changing them :ugh:


"Now I was getting 240whp/180wtq. Also, he was revving to 7000-7500, since he said it was not making any more past that area, though the redline is set at 8650. Check the attached dyno sheet. "

sounds pretty stupid to me...
 

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iVtec Do You?
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You listed one of your mod's as a high flow 3" cat back exhaust, what about the rest of your exhaust? Are you stilling running a cat or the stock Greddy downpipe? Those will limit your numbers. As far as your car temp, 190-195 F is normal. 207 is getting pretty hot. I would change the fans to kick in a little sooner in Kpro. I would be money its still running pretty rich. A good tuner would of been able to remove the 30% overall fuel trim to the original map to get rid of the lean spikes. Simply adding 30 % fuel is 1. a band aid fix for hitting lean cut, 2. dumping way to much fuel in. Post up a datalog.
 

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4039whp 2956wtq @ 88psi
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Well of course my tuner didn't fully tune the car, so I can't really compare numbers yet.

About the sparks, luckily I only ran that rich for a couple pulls on the street and like 1-2 on the dyno but I'm gonna get a spare set and take a look at them anyway just to be safe.

Guess you get what you pay for. That was a $100 dyno tune :rotfl:
yeah thats pretty cheap haha, i would definitely check the plugs:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You listed one of your mod's as a high flow 3" cat back exhaust, what about the rest of your exhaust? Are you stilling running a cat or the stock Greddy downpipe? Those will limit your numbers. As far as your car temp, 190-195 F is normal. 207 is getting pretty hot. I would change the fans to kick in a little sooner in Kpro. I would be money its still running pretty rich. A good tuner would of been able to remove the 30% overall fuel trim to the original map to get rid of the lean spikes. Simply adding 30 % fuel is 1. a band aid fix for hitting lean cut, 2. dumping way to much fuel in. Post up a datalog.
Yeah my exhaust isn't true 3'' turbo back but hopefully that doesn't take off more than 20hp/tq. Thanks for advice bout fans, I can lower that easily.

I will update with a good datalog soon, the one I took before showed A/F of 10.70 the whole time :rotfl: so Mag told me the sensor wasn't warmed up.

And for fuel, it must be chugging it nasty because I'm getting 14-18mpg
 

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4039whp 2956wtq @ 88psi
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www.magtuning.com
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Issue #1
A/F is pegged, the sensor cannot read any richer, and the curve---well there isn't one so most likely you're running 10:1 A/F probably, when it should be 12:1 for max power while retaining reliability, I'd say a good 10 at least or more whp can be seen from this


Issue #2
Looks like you have more room for ignition advance from 2500-7700rpm


Issue #3
Cam angles should start decreasing as it gets closer to redline, I'd say start decreasing at 6500rpm and progressively get lower, even though you're car was dyno tuned for a low PSI, I don't believe that with a greddy turbo, that is small and very restrictive, would make power on the 30 cam all the way across

Issue #4
Get a Manual boost controller, and a 3 inch downpipe ASAP - raise the wick to 14 or so PSI and have fun with it, anyone running less than 12psi on a greddy turbo is a panzy, FYI I run 16psi on my GReddy and I'm still slow lol :p

Issue #5
An RBC is a nice addition, but not as nice with a restrictive GReddy turbo, though you'll see gains, I'd say 10whp with addition of RBC on GReddy and raise it considerably more with better turbos and setups

Issue #5
The tuner should have fans placed in front of your car on a dyno so your coolant and engine do not over heat, if you do not overheat on the street, then you shouldnt on a dyno. Also make sure the coolant system is topped off

Issue #6
Who is this tuner?
 

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Stock
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Issue #1
A/F is pegged, the sensor cannot read any richer, and the curve---well there isn't one so most likely you're running 10:1 A/F probably, when it should be 12:1 for max power while retaining reliability, I'd say a good 10 at least or more whp can be seen from this


Issue #2
Looks like you have more room for ignition advance from 2500-7700rpm


Issue #3
Cam angles should start decreasing as it gets closer to redline, I'd say start decreasing at 6500rpm and progressively get lower, even though you're car was dyno tuned for a low PSI, I don't believe that with a greddy turbo, that is small and very restrictive, would make power on the 30 cam all the way across

Issue #4
Get a Manual boost controller, and a 3 inch downpipe ASAP - raise the wick to 14 or so PSI and have fun with it, anyone running less than 12psi on a greddy turbo is a panzy, FYI I run 16psi on my GReddy and I'm still slow lol :p

Issue #5
An RBC is a nice addition, but not as nice with a restrictive GReddy turbo, though you'll see gains, I'd say 10whp with addition of RBC on GReddy and raise it considerably more with better turbos and setups

Issue #5
The tuner should have fans placed in front of your car on a dyno so your coolant and engine do not over heat, if you do not overheat on the street, then you shouldnt on a dyno. Also make sure the coolant system is topped off

Issue #6
Who is this tuner?
Thanks for all the free help, there was a fan on the dyno, but apparently not a good one.

Tuner is Kenny, aka Turbogixxer:

http://floridahondacrew.com/turbogixxer-tuning/174-tuning-services-info.html
 

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I have a question about running over 10psi on this motor. Wouldn't your EGTs get into some dangerous areas running such high boost on such a high compression ratio as 11:1? My tuner won't tune me past 10 psi because he said that it will end in tears from the high EGTs. Like piston rings melting. He said if it were a straight up track car and you were planning on rebuilding it frequently that the EGTs wouldn't be an issue. But since I am DDing it the stress if stop and go traffic would raise the EGTs way into the danger area. Is there any truth to this? Because 10psi is fun and all but I'm getting bored of it really quickly.
 
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