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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I have a set of Ohlins PCV on my rsx with swift springs 10K fr and 12k rear spring rates.

The springs are 7in long and the car sits pretty low (hard time installing the straps for the dolly around the tires)

I was gonna order 8in springs because I thought the previous owner wanted a slammed cars but I found out the stock springs are also 7in long.

Should I stay with what Ohlins engineered (I figure they know what they are doing) or buy longer springs to be at a more reasonable height like it is said everywhere that dropping to much impact handling.

Thanks
 

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Fat Free
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is there a reason you can't just raise the spring perches? why is it you think you need longer springs? (not saying you're wrong or anything, just asking)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
is there a reason you can't just raise the spring perches? why is it you think you need longer springs? (not saying you're wrong or anything, just asking)
That would add preload to the spring right? The garage where I got them installed because I didn't have time to do it myself did that and the car was dangerous to track.

I just thought having it closer to stock height would be beneficial like I read everywhere that lowering more than an inch is not good with the RSX.

Also have a little bit of rubbing at full compression, just enough to remove the paint inside the wheel wells. When I put the car on/off a dolly, the bumper want to tear off the car because it's too low.
 

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Fat Free
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oh, sorry for my assumption... we're having a coilover discussion in the Track Chat thread and someone just posted a pic of ohlins, and height is only adjusted with the spring on those. so I assumed your ohlins were the same...

so if you have separate adjustment for height and preload, I still fail to see the need for longer springs? why not just make the strut longer and then it'll be taller...?

and what do you mean by the car was dangerous on the track?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh, sorry for my assumption... we're having a coilover discussion in the Track Chat thread and someone just posted a pic of ohlins, and height is only adjusted with the spring on those. so I assumed your ohlins were the same...

so if you have separate adjustment for height and preload, I still fail to see the need for longer springs? why not just make the strut longer and then it'll be taller...?

and what do you mean by the car was dangerous on the track?
Yeah i'll have to rethink that. Can't remember what made me think that a longer spring would raise the height.

When the garage adjusted them, yes the ride height was higher but the spring was also pre loaded a lot, making the car bounce everywhere on the track to a point I thought the rear would loose contact with the ground on a bump.

The coilovers don't have separate height and preload adjustment, they are like the ones you talked about posted in the track chat.

I'll have to try, maybe there's a window that I can move the perch up without compressing the spring and it just raise the ride height??

When I tested the rear shocks without springs, I pushed the shaft in and it would come out by itself so I assume it's the same in the front. Now thinking of it I don't understand how the ride height increased with preload if the shaft comes out by itself when no pressure is applied on it.

Thanks though, I wont spend 500$ on new springs lol
 

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Fat Free
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so if they're the ones like in track chat, then there is no spring preload adjustment. moving the spring perch up and down only changes ride height. the spring preload just just the weight of the car. I mean it changes slightly with height cause weight distribution changes with height, but in a setup like this its not a concern. if you want to raise it just raise the spring perches.

also I'd seriously question the shop's abilities if they're confusing height adjustment with spring preload.

as far as it being bouncy, my only guess is its bouncing on bumpstops cause its set to low? being ohlins and all, they should be valved well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right now they are not bouncy, the car handles pretty well at that height. I just want to see if it'll handle better at a higher ride height and also being able to tow it on a dolly without destroying the bumper.

Back to basics: if the shaft comes out of the shocks by itself when no pressure is applied, how does rising the perch makes it longer. If the shaft is at the end of it's stroke when there's no pressure applied to it, raising the perch would only compress the spring, right?

The only way to raise the ride height is if when you raise the perch, the spring pushes the shaft out of the shock instead of compressing meaning the shaft is not an the end of its stroke when there's no pressure applied on it. Then when its topping inside the shock, you'll start preloading the spring.

Don't know if I'm making sense, English is my second language.

Thanks
 

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Fat Free
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The position of the shock has nothing to do with spring preload. The shock doesn't do anything for ride height at all, it only controls body motion.

If I'm understanding you right, you want the shock to be at the top of its travel when the car is at rest. That is not correct. You want there to be some droop. For example when you jack up the car, you need to raise it some before the true actually come off the ground. What you're getting at would mean the tire would come off the ground right when you start raising the car. And just to be clear, a longer spring wouldn't change this
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No I don't want that, but raising the perch will create that if it is raised too much, probably what the garage did before I backed the perch until the spring can be hand turned, than gave a couple turn just to snug it.

The spring is installed between the perch at the bottom of the body and the dish/top plate/nut threaded to the shaft at the top, right? So, if you thread the perch toward the top of the shock, the spring will push the dish/top plate, thus pushing the shaft out. Since the top plate is attached to the car, that will raise ride height. Until the shaft can go no further out, then the spring will start compressing itself and I don't want that.

It all became clear as I was writing this lol. When I raise the perch, I have whatever length the car compressed the spring under its own weight to raise the car before the spring starts preloading. A longer spring would only change where the perch sits on the shock body.

Thanks for making me challenge what I was thinking at first lol
 

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Fat Free
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oh, ok, I understand what you're saying now. we're on the same page as far as that goes.
 

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There's no harm in raising the collars all the way up. It's going to be really hard to put any preload into an 8kg spring with just your hands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There's no harm in raising the collars all the way up. It's going to be really hard to put any preload into an 8kg spring with just your hands.
They did it at the garage, I don't know if they did that with the spanner wrench. I probably spend half an hour on each side threading them back between 2 sessions. The car was probably an inch and a half higher than it is now and I had basically no suspension travel. It was scary on the track and the 3hrs to drive to it weren't fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't remember at what settings they are. I adjusted them and now I adjust + or - according to my needs.

Car handles well now. I just wanted to raise the ride height to see if it'll handle better at a closer to stock height and try not to tear off the bumper everytime I go on/off the dolly.
I know that the height can be adjusted because it was higher at one point when the garage set them but I guess they raise the perch so high to meet my ride height demands that the shaft was totally out and then they kept raising it so the spring compressed to a point where I had to more travel. I don't go to that place anymore.

Now from what I understand if I have the coilover in my hand and I set the spring perch so the spring is snug and then install it on the car, whatever length the spring compressed with the weight of the car, I can raise the perch that amount before the shaft tops off and the spring starts to preload
 

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Late Apexer
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heh.. preload. why does that myth just not want to die?
 

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Please inform me.
Preload has nothing to do with spring stiffness. So adjusting it with that in mind is doing things wrong. A 5k spring will still be a 5k spring no matter how much preload is put in to it. What it does change is ride-height and the position of the dampers piston within the dampers body. the first one can be mitigated if you have dampers that have two methods of adjustment, the 2nd one however can be critical if you want your dampers to perform the way they were meant to perform. *because slamming the damper piston in to the ends of the damper body tends to not be good for handling nor good for the lifespan of the damper.
 

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And there you have the difference between progressive and linear springs.
 

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And there you have the difference between progressive and linear springs.
doesn't actually matter on an automotive suspension. Because any reasonable amount of spring pre-compression is negated once the suspension is under load. *as in, the moment the car is back on the ground the springs compress further than what the pre-compresson did already (due to the cars normal weight), making that pre-compression irreverent.
 
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