lol i should change the title to say i need a new amp.
Help! I need a new sub.
hey guys. well i blew the amp for my JL10w6v2 subwoofer and am looking to buy a new one the thing is i can only get a pioneer one cuz i get a pretty good discount on it. i was wondering what amp you stereo experts recommend for my sub.
Here is a link to the specs of my sub
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6
and here is a link to the amplifier section of the pioneer website
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers
i also plan on getting a capacitor cuz according to my uncle a capacitor would of saved my amp from getting burnt out. so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
Here is a link to the specs of my sub
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6
and here is a link to the amplifier section of the pioneer website
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers
i also plan on getting a capacitor cuz according to my uncle a capacitor would of saved my amp from getting burnt out. so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Don't know about which amp to get but don't waste money on a cap. A cap would not have saved your amp. That being said, pick the amp that is 100-200 watts RMS more than your sub is rated at and then keep the gain turned down a little bit. BTW, did you have a mono or 2 channel amp? If it was a 2 channel that's why it fried.
As stated a cap would not have made a difference, Personally I wouldn't touch Pioneer amps but if you have to go that route with an amp the GM-D7400M matches best with a 10w6v2Don't know about which amp to get but don't waste money on a cap. A cap would not have saved your amp. That being said, pick the amp that is 100-200 watts RMS more than your sub is rated at and then keep the gain turned down a little bit. BTW, did you have a mono or 2 channel amp? If it was a 2 channel that's why it fried.
I think the gm-d8400m looked better from that pioneer line. Pioneer amps suck so i hope your getting an amazing deal on one lol.
thanks. yeah im getting pioneer employee discount thats why i have to go this route. why do pioneer amps suck so bad? would you reccomend not going with their speakers either?
here is their speaker line up
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Speakers
which one would you guys reccomend?
here is their speaker line up
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Speakers
which one would you guys reccomend?
PRS series speakers are good, their amps are rated with CEA compliance so they are rated @ 1% distortion and 14.4 volts which you will never have unless you do some serious electrical upgrades and power output at the in car levels of 13.4 to 13.8 is less than the power rated at.
Well like tony said there amps are over-rated for the power you would realistically see at the speaker in a basic install, but from my experience i have had good luck with their other products like HU's and speakers. If your getting employee discount deals then go for it.
what size speakers do i get. and do you reccomend getting all 4 speakrs changed or will just changing the front speakers suffice?
Id like to hear the explanation of how an amp can fry because its a 2-channel amp driving a sub....Don't know about which amp to get but don't waste money on a cap. A cap would not have saved your amp. That being said, pick the amp that is 100-200 watts RMS more than your sub is rated at and then keep the gain turned down a little bit. BTW, did you have a mono or 2 channel amp? If it was a 2 channel that's why it fried.
Front's only rear speakers are not something anyone would need in a SQ system.what size speakers do i get. and do you reccomend getting all 4 speakrs changed or will just changing the front speakers suffice?
His sub is a Dual 4ohm sub. If he had it wired at 2ohms (which most people do) and then hooked it to a bridged 2 channel amp, It would show a 1ohm load to each channel and fry the amp. Unless, the amp in question was 1ohm stable on each channel. Most 2 channel amps can only support a 4ohm load when bridged to a single channel. (this is assuming it was wired how most amp/sub setups are wired, I see this happen all the time at one of my jobs).Id like to hear the explanation of how an amp can fry because its a 2-channel amp driving a sub....
I do agree that many systems with similar components are wired as you describe. However, thats a lot of hypothesizing to state "If it was a 2 channel that's why it fried" w/o any details. There are 2-channel A/B amplifiers that are have manufacturer ratings at 2-ohms mono.His sub is a Dual 4ohm sub. If he had it wired at 2ohms (which most people do) and then hooked it to a bridged 2 channel amp, It would show a 1ohm load to each channel and fry the amp. Unless, the amp in question was 1ohm stable on each channel. Most 2 channel amps can only support a 4ohm load when bridged to a single channel. (this is assuming it was wired how most amp/sub setups are wired, I see this happen all the time at one of my jobs).
I have seen quite a few 2-channel amps run a mono 2-ohm load just fine without any hiccups - as long as the amp was adjusted properly and adequate cooling was provided. Most amplifiers that due fry with said conditions are being overdriven given the load and cant dissipate the heat fast enough, causing the internal components to burn up.
I have seen multiple d-class mono amplifiers fry under 2-ohm load conditions which they are supposed to handle. Many times problems arise when gains are set above limits they should be, increasing clipping, and increasing heat produced.
i have decided to purchase some prs speakers. but not sure what size speakers to get and do i need another amp for just the speakers? or can i use one amp to power the speakers and subs. let me know so i do this right the first time
Yeah, I was just going with what I tend to see when someone says they have fried an amp. Keep in mind I work at a Best Buy so a lot of the ones I see aren't society most contributing members. But you're right, with adequate cooling and the right adjustment, you can run just about any good amp at a lower impedance than it is rated at. I've seem quality 2ohm amps running below 1ohm with no problems.I do agree that many systems with similar components are wired as you describe. However, thats a lot of hypothesizing to state "If it was a 2 channel that's why it fried" w/o any details. There are 2-channel A/B amplifiers that are have manufacturer ratings at 2-ohms mono.
I have seen quite a few 2-channel amps run a mono 2-ohm load just fine without any hiccups - as long as the amp was adjusted properly and adequate cooling was provided. Most amplifiers that due fry with said conditions are being overdriven given the load and cant dissipate the heat fast enough, causing the internal components to burn up.
I have seen multiple d-class mono amplifiers fry under 2-ohm load conditions which they are supposed to handle. Many times problems arise when gains are set above limits they should be, increasing clipping, and increasing heat produced.
I agree completely, also I own several class A/B amps that will handle 1 and even 1/2 ohm loads no problem, granted they are old school Orion, PPI and Soundstreams but there still many amps out there that can do that, they just are not brands you are going to be buying at Best buy.I do agree that many systems with similar components are wired as you describe. However, thats a lot of hypothesizing to state "If it was a 2 channel that's why it fried" w/o any details. There are 2-channel A/B amplifiers that are have manufacturer ratings at 2-ohms mono.
I have seen quite a few 2-channel amps run a mono 2-ohm load just fine without any hiccups - as long as the amp was adjusted properly and adequate cooling was provided. Most amplifiers that due fry with said conditions are being overdriven given the load and cant dissipate the heat fast enough, causing the internal components to burn up.
I have seen multiple d-class mono amplifiers fry under 2-ohm load conditions which they are supposed to handle. Many times problems arise when gains are set above limits they should be, increasing clipping, and increasing heat produced.
lol ahem. sorry for interupting the debatei have decided to purchase some prs speakers. but not sure what size speakers to get and do i need another amp for just the speakers? or can i use one amp to power the speakers and subs. let me know so i do this right the first time
Depends on the Amp, A 4 channel with the rears bridged to a sub would be able to run a set of comps and a sub, if you are using a 2 channel or a Mono amp then you would need a second amp for the Comps, with you staying with Pioneer I would suggest 2 amps as they do not have a 4 channel that is high power enough to effectivly run the sub you have and the compslol ahem. sorry for interupting the debate
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/PRSSeries/PRS-D4200F
theres this 4 channel amp
or i can get
the mono class d amp
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/GMSeries/GM-D7400M
and a 2 channel amp
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/GMSeries/GM-3300T
i believe gettin the two seperate amps might be cheaper than getting the one 4 channel but what do you guys reccomend as far as performance
theres this 4 channel amp
or i can get
the mono class d amp
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/GMSeries/GM-D7400M
and a 2 channel amp
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/GMSeries/GM-3300T
i believe gettin the two seperate amps might be cheaper than getting the one 4 channel but what do you guys reccomend as far as performance
will i be able to get the 6-3/4" or will i have to settle with the 5-1/4"
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
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