So I have this code P1106.
Acura already replaced the ecm and the code still appears.
I really dont know what to do because it wont pass air care unless I get it cleared.
Anyone had any experience with this?
So what i did was i unplugged the tps sensor and cleared the codes to see if I'll get 2 codes
P1106, and p1122 or p1123 but only P1122 came up and P1106 dissapeared. Does that prove that its something wrong with the tb?
It is. P0116 is for the ECT and P1106 is for the baro sensor problem.
Anyway, I'm thinking the ECU is relying on the signal from the TB, particularly the TPS, to ascertain whether the internal sensor is good or not. Kinda shaky, but without any schematic of the ECU, I'll never really know for sure. Unplugging the TPS seems to prove this. Unfortunately there's nothing in the manual specifically for replacing the TPS and leaving the rest of the TB alone, as the TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer which will eventually fail after enough cycling.
You at least have the benefit of it still being under warranty, so take it right back in. When did they replace the ECU?
Same thing today code p1106 Barometric Pressure appeared after putting in a NEW tps sensor and a new purge control solenoid on the TB.
Engine went from idling at 1500rpms to 500rpms idling back and forth from 200rpms to 500rpms.
I read a thread on honda-tech about calibrating the TPS but was lacking instructions on how to do this. So my best approach to the solution would be calibrating the TPS.
Installation for K Series Omnipower TPS sensors.
1, grind slots on the stock tps sensor bolts so that a flat blade screw driver can be used to loosen them. The stock bolts are break off bolts/tamper proof bolts. You can use a dremel with a small 1 inch diameter cutting wheel. You can do it on the car with out removing the throttle body for most models.
2. after you make the slots on the stock break off bolts, use a 90 degree screw driver, butter knife, or other similar type of object and loosen the bolts and remove them.
3. remove the TPS sensor, taking care not to damage the stock gasket. You can use a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully separate the gasket from the tps. If you break the gasket its not the end of the world just use a small amount of silicon when re-installing the new one.
4.install the new tps sensor and put it in the middle of its adjustment range. (the holes are slotted and allow for adjustment). use a 4mm allen wrench (90 degree) to tighten the bolts snug.
5. with the tps sensor plug connected and the key in the on position engine off, use a multi meter to check the voltage on the red and black wire on the tps connector. Adjust the voltage to .45 volts with the throttle closed. Also check wide open throttle to see if there is approximately 4.5 volts +-.2 volts. after adjustment tighten the allen bolts.
6. test drive vehicle to check for proper performance.
Omnipower TPS sensors are manufactured by Kei Hin (the same supplier as OEM Honda) There is no difference between our sensor and the OEM sensor. We have a sticker in place for warranty purposes, if you remove or alter the sticker we cannot warranty the sensor for any reason because we cannot determine ours from OEM as they are the same.
here is one on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CMS-THROTTLE-POSITION-SENSOR-TPS-K20-RSX-HONDA-CIVIC-SI-/220586383900?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make:Acura|Model:RSX&hash=item335bf91a1c#ht_6716wt_907[/
A car that seems to hesitate or stumble during acceleration may have a faulty throttle position sensor. If the sensor sends the wrong throttle position message to the engine, the engine will not add extra fuel to the mixture until the oxygen sensor feedback circuit steps in to correct the imbalance. This momentary miscommunication will cause the car to hesitate. Sometimes a sensor may develop one or more dead spots in its response, so as the potentiometer passes those spots, the car hesitates. Sensor wear often causes a dead spot just above its normal "idling" position.
If your car idles unevenly or hesitates intermittently, regardless of acceleration, the throttle position sensor may simply have a loose connection. This loose connection sends out multiple signals, confusing the computer with indications that the throttle keeps opening and closing.
Poor Initial Performance
If your car engine seems to perform roughly from its first day on the road, the throttle position sensor may suffer from an incorrect initial setting. Throttle position sensor settings must conform to factory specifications precisely, and normally a new car has had its throttle position sensor adjusted to within 1/100 of a volt. A car that may seem like a "lemon" may in fact need only a tiny adjustment to the throttle position sensor setting to run perfectly.
Other Syptoms Include
[B][U]Poor gas mileage[/U][/B]
I am currently having this code and I am getting different ways to fix this from different opinions form different mechanics however they say to take it to the dealer. The first mechanic said that I need a new throttle body that the dealer can fix. The second mechanic recommends that the dealer needs to update the ECM. So which on is this? anyone have any experience with this code?
So I just wanted to updated this incase anybody else had this problem, after replacing a whole new ECU ($900) the same engine code came on. The fix to this finally ended up replacing the TPS sensor from the throttle body and that seemed to have solved the problem just how it was mentioned earlier. I would recommend to replace the TPS sensor before swapping the ECU.
They did a bad job diagnosing your car. To throw an ECU at a sensor issue is the last step not 1st. As to the above on how it works. The TPS,MAP, temp, baro, and O2 work together to keep the A/F at the 14.5. At startup, the ECU has a default setting until the O2 temp gets hot enough to function. It fluctuates and send lean and rich signals according to all the other positions to keep the motor at that 14.5. This is why an O2 signal can be from one of the other problems and it's compensation is out of range. The mechanic should check sensor function before blaming the ECU. The above isn't always that simple, but you get the point.