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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now i understand the Kpro is better than the hondata #4, but i have the money right now for the #4 and dont know when/if i will be adding a turbo to the car. My question is, should i just get the #4 reflash now and then if i decide to go boost or just have the $500 it requires for current users later, then get it? Or should i just save up and get the Kpro when i get the money?
Thanks
 

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hondata 4 now, then when u get a turbo just upgrade to the k pro
ur only payin 100 more
 

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BarFlies34 said:
Now i understand the Kpro is better than the hondata #4, but i have the money right now for the #4 and dont know when/if i will be adding a turbo to the car. My question is, should i just get the #4 reflash now and then if i decide to go boost or just have the $500 it requires for current users later, then get it? Or should i just save up and get the Kpro when i get the money?
Thanks
One is not inherently better than the other. The Hondata 4 reflash is a one shot deal that optimizes a near stock car (especially one with a CAI), adds a lot of power in the midrange by lowering the VTEC point, and increasing the fuel cut-off to 8,500 for some extra fun.

The K-Pro adds a daughterboard with a USB port to your ECU so that you can tune the car for optimal performance no matter what modifications you make.

If it's going to be a while until you make significant changes to the car, I'd do the reflash now. It'll transform your car. Then when you're ready to go boost, take advantage of Hondata's very generous upgrade offer to reflash customers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks, thats basically what i was thinking of doing. So #4 it is, i will be ordering it tomorrow.
 

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conradb212 said:
One is not inherently better than the other. The Hondata 4 reflash is a one shot deal that optimizes a near stock car (especially one with a CAI), adds a lot of power in the midrange by lowering the VTEC point, and increasing the fuel cut-off to 8,500 for some extra fun.

The K-Pro adds a daughterboard with a USB port to your ECU so that you can tune the car for optimal performance no matter what modifications you make.

If it's going to be a while until you make significant changes to the car, I'd do the reflash now. It'll transform your car. Then when you're ready to go boost, take advantage of Hondata's very generous upgrade offer to reflash customers.
I totally agree, the K-PRO is pretty much for special applications like FI (turbo, N2, etc) and for extreme tuners who really want to customize the setting to get the most out of their mods. For the average joe Hondata #4 is definately fine :thumbsup:
 

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Does anyone know if the K20A2 w/CAI program on the K-Pro is the exact same as the #4 program, or are there more optimizations?
 

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starmax said:
Does anyone know if the K20A2 w/CAI program on the K-Pro is the exact same as the #4 program, or are there more optimizations?
I believe it is. I should be getting mine from Hondata on wed or thurs and until I can get it dynotuned I will be running on the #4 flash.
 

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starmax said:
Does anyone know if the K20A2 w/CAI program on the K-Pro is the exact same as the #4 program, or are there more optimizations?

i believe melovinitsir (or whatever his name is, the guy with the ep3 type-s head) said the preset for that particular program had a 4400 vtec or somethin like that. the preset tunes WERE dyno-tuned so.... i guess they had some improvement. the #4 and the preset on the k-pro is essentially the same.
 

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BarFlies34 said:
Now i understand the Kpro is better than the hondata #4, but i have the money right now for the #4 and dont know when/if i will be adding a turbo to the car. My question is, should i just get the #4 reflash now and then if i decide to go boost or just have the $500 it requires for current users later, then get it? Or should i just save up and get the Kpro when i get the money?
Thanks
The only way to answer this question is to know what mods you have now. Talking with Doug this weekend he feels that if you have a race header you should go with the K-Pro, if not you should go with the flash. This means if you have a race header or more (FI, NOS, etc) go with the K-Pro. Be willing to buy what you need the first time not rush.
 

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starmax said:
Does anyone know if the K20A2 w/CAI program on the K-Pro is the exact same as the #4 program, or are there more optimizations?
It is a little different and optimized more. How much is hard to say because I didn't get it on a dyno.
 

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corso28 said:
i believe melovinitsir (or whatever his name is, the guy with the ep3 type-s head) said the preset for that particular program had a 4400 vtec or somethin like that. the preset tunes WERE dyno-tuned so.... i guess they had some improvement. the #4 and the preset on the k-pro is essentially the same.
The K-Pro stock and CAI calibrations both show the same 4300 rpm value for the VTEC Window upper and lower boundary. The VTEC point in the Hondata 4 reflash is supposedly at 5200. I don't know if I am looking at two different things or if the VTEC is that much lower in the K-Pro map.
 

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The lower boundary is set based on air pressure... I'm sure it's left there as a kinda "never gonna happen, but just in case" scenario. Whereas you'll never get that sort of air pressure with a CAI, so you'll always be using the upper boundary.

If you have a supercharger, and it's engaged, the air pressure would be high enough to use that lower boundary. And when you aren't at full throttle (and the SC isn't boosting, at least with the JRSC), it would use the upper boundary.

And if you change the pressure setting of the lower boundary to have your car hit vtec at 4300... I dunno... I gotta think that would be less-than-optimal.
 

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From what Doug said that finding VTEC is pretty hard on the k series. The SC likes it lower, some N/A setups like if higher or lower, turbo is near the middle, etc. It is not like previous versions that was just set it at the cross over point, there is a little more art to it now. Doug said the best point for VTEC on the SC was around 2000RPM or so but it sucks for street driving. :eek: I will be around there for the track though. :D
 

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K20A2 said:
It is lower with the K-Pro but I am not 100% sure why. I forgot to ask Doug that question this weekend.
Same here. 4300 seems too low. Maybe I am overlooking something. Or maybe the VTEC Window is not where the VTEC Point is set. I also noticed that in all calibrations "Immobilizer enabled" is always checked off under ECU Options, so if you upload that map without checking it "on," it'll be off.
 

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If you have access to a dyno tune after every mod, maybe just go with the k-pro now. If not just wait and upgrade after u hook up the turbo.
 

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its really quite fascinating that there are so many permutations now to work thru to get to optimal tuning

its gonna be intersting to see what works best for any particular combination of mods

no substitute for experimentation though

just wish their was a formula......... eg

max hp/torque = cam angle* a/f ratio/vtec (if supercharged, 2000 rpm)*nitrous/cai pressure*exhaust internal diameter/header runner length :)

but i know given enough monkeys and typwriters we will compose a shakespeare play!

lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well i sent the ecu and everything to hondata this morning. i'm getting the #4 for now...now i just have to wait to get it back. thanks to everyone who replied.
 
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