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GTX35R
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30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How do I build a custom turbo kit… Q&A Thread

Okay there have been a lot of questions and threads about custom turbo kits. And obviously people don’t want to search so maybe this will help. Below is a list of questions and some answers or links to sites that may help you. Please read through this before you go posting your own threads or asking stupid questions. If you disregard this and ask questions or post your own thread please be prepared to be flamed. If you do have a question please check the chat threads first. Btw if you think something needs to be added pm me and I will add it to the list.

Helpful turbo research links…
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Fuel Setup

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If you plan on running high horsepower applications then you for sure want to update your fuel setup so that you don’t max out your fuel system, and to prevent hitting fuel cut while boosting. The reason to upgrade your system is that as you put more air into the motor you need to add more fuel to compensate for the increased air (aka to keep your air to fuel ratio at a certain level). If you don’t increase your fuel capabilities then you can very well max out your injectors which can cause them to go out. The stock rsx injectors are 350cc injectors are “good” for applications up to 350 horsepower.

Fuel Pumps & Feed Lines
Most people go with either the Walbro250 or for extremely high horsepower applications they go with the Bosch fuel pump, There are debates as to if the A1000 is a good pump for our cars because some users have had problems with the a1000 fuel pump.. If you plan on running in the 500 horsepower range you can get away with a single intake walbro or even a intake and inline walbro fuel pump for more than that you can go with the Bosch Fuel Pump

The feed line is very important in the fact that it is what is responsible for delivering the fuel to the fuel rail. Without a large feed line a new fuel pump won’t do you any good, however a new feed line with a small fuel pump won’t do you any good either. I suggest either a -6an or -8an feed line. You can do either however, I would go with the -8an just because it’s like a condom it’s one of those it’s better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. Lol. Here are some parts you will need.
  1. You need about 8in of -8an rubber fuel line to run from the fuel pump to the top of the fuel pump assembly
  2. You need a -8an male to male hose connector with 90 degree bend.
  3. You will need about 10ft of -8an stainless steel braided line.
  4. Most all these parts can be found on summitracing.com
Fuel Pumps & Feed Line Purchase:
Fuel Filters
A Fuel Filter is “optional” in the since that if you don’t do it and something happens don’t complain cause you just asked for it. A lot of junk gets in your fuel tank. I found leaves and even sticks and stuff in mine. In order to keep this stuff from getting in you fuel lines a fuel filter is a good investment. It goes in the feed line. All you really need is the fuel filter assembly that uses a 10 micron filter, and connectors.

Links for Purchase:
Fuel Rail & Injectors
For the same reason you upgrade your fuel pump and fuel lines you want to upgrade your fuel rail and injectors. If you do the rail and injectors but not the pump and lines you haven’t helped yourself any and vice versa. All fuel rails are created equal so really it doesn’t matter which one you go with. The AEM is nice cause it’s got a cover that will hide all the wires and helps keep the engine bay looking nice. In my opinion it’s worth the extra money. Injectors however are a different story. So let’s talk about them. There are two types of injectors. Low impedance and High Impedance.

Low impedance injectors with a resistance of around 2.5-3 ohms, and high impedance injectors of around 12 ohms. This can easily be measured by a multimeter across the two electrical terminals. Early Hondas used low impedance injectors with a resistor pack. From about '92 to '96 Honda transitioned from low impedance to high impedance without a resistor pack. If you look at the specifications of the injector driver package, it indicates it can flow the amount of current required for low impedance injectors. What affects reliability is heat, which is a by product of the current flow. The greater the current, the greater the temperature. Reliability takes a long time to measure. Temperature is straightforward. Running low impedance injectors without a resistor box will substantially increase the temperature of the transistor driver IC due to the increase in current flow. The temperature increase will depend on your driving. If that temperature remains high enough for long enough the driver transistor will be damaged. So in conclusion either low impedance injectors. The only real injectors you would by that are low impedance that require the resistor box are the 1000cc injectors. Other wise you would just most likely buy 750cc or lower low impedance injectors which don’t require the injector box. In my opinion if you don’t plan on going over 500 just stick with the 750cc, installing the resistor box with the c104 junction connector is a royal pain in the ass.

Injector Purchase:
Return Line w/ Fuel Pressure Regulator
Perhaps one of the best upgrades is a fuel return line. This will allow you to keep the fuel pressure in the system at a desired amount. Even though you won’t see this when your driving it will help when you do turning. I would again recommend you go with the large -8an return line. For this you will need about 10 more feet of stainless steel braided line, and the connectors for your fuel pressure regulator and hooking the return line to the fuel rail. The ideal setting for your fuel pressure is around 40 to 50lbs.

Links for Purchase:

Fuel Setup Links:

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Turbo Manifolds

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Turbo manifolds are what replace you’re your exhaust manifold. It’s very important that you choose a manifold that fits your needs. There are two types of manifolds, there is tubular manifold and log style manifold. Tubular manifolds are known for allowing more free flowing exhaust gases while log manifolds can be more restrictive. However, you can expect up to 500 to 600 horsepower on a log style manifold. Those same power goals could be reached with a tubular manifold, but at a lower level of boost. That is the trade off of tubular manifolds vs log style manifolds.

Different types of manifolds (advantages/disadvantages log style vs. equal length)


Cast log style turbocharger manifold


Welded tubular turbocharger manifold

Manifold design on turbocharged applications is deceptively complex as there many factors to take into account and trade off
General design tips for best overall performance are to:
• Maximize the radius of the bends that make up the exhaust primaries to maintain pulse energy
• Make the exhaust primaries equal length to balance exhaust reversion across all cylinders
• Avoid rapid area changes to maintain pulse energy to the turbine
• At the collector, introduce flow from all runners at a narrow angle to minimize "turning" of the flow in the collector
• For better boost response, minimize the exhaust volume between the exhaust ports and the turbine inlet
• For best power, tuned primary lengths can be used

Log manifolds are commonly found on OEM applications, whereas welded tubular manifolds are found almost exclusively on aftermarket and race applications. Both manifold types have their advantages and disadvantages. Cast manifolds are generally very durable and are usually dedicated to one application. They require special tooling for the casting and machining of specific features on the manifold. This tooling can be expensive.

On the other hand, welded tubular manifolds can be custom-made for a specific application without special tooling requirements. The manufacturer typically cuts pre-bent steel U-bends into the desired geometry and then welds all of the components together. Welded tubular manifolds are a very effective solution. One item of note is durability of this design. Because of the welded joints, thinner wall sections, and reduced stiffness, these types of manifolds are often susceptible to cracking due to thermal expansion/contraction and vibration. Properly constructed tubular manifolds can last a long time, however. In addition, tubular manifolds can offer a substantial performance advantage over a log-type manifold.

A design feature that can be common to both manifold types is a " DIVIDED MANIFOLD" , typically employed with " DIVIDED " or "twin-scroll" turbine housings. Divided exhaust manifolds can be incorporated into either a cast or welded tubular manifolds


Log manifold with a divided turbine inlet design feature



Welded tubular manifold with a divided turbine inlet design feature

The concept is to DIVIDE or separate the cylinders whose cycles interfere with one another to best utilize the engine's exhaust pulse energy.


Below are some examples of common Turbular and Log Style Manifolds

Full Race
Full Race is a tubular manifold that is considered to be the industry best. While I have no problem with full race, I do believe that people more often pay for a name than a product. All tubular manifolds are based on the same similar design. One advantage of going with full race is that they have been around a while, and they stand firmly behind their product. They are the most expensive manifolds on the market but also considered the be the best as well. Visit Full Race

Peakboost
Peakboost is considered the be the new kid on the block with their tubular manifolds, but they are giving full race a run for their money. Peakboost is a cheaper priced manifold, but the price decrease did not come with any sacrifice in quality. Peakboost is a good alternative for someone who wants a tubular manifold but can not afford full race. Visit Peakboost Site

Revhard
A solution for people who do not want large horsepower potential or do not want to deal with tubular manifolds , there are the more restrictive yet still very efficient log style manifolds. These manifolds are a lot cheaper compared to tubular manifolds. If you are not worried about ultra efficencey or about high horsepower applications (aka over 500 whp) then a log style manifold will work for you. The revhard manifold is considered to be the best of the log style manifolds. Visit Treadstone aka Revhard Manifolds

Greddy
The last and possible least manifold is the greddy manifold. To be honest I wouldn’t recommend this is because the t25 flange on this manifold makes your choice of selecting turbos very limited. This is a log style manifold and because of the flange type I would not recommend getting it.


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Turbos

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How a Turbo System Works
Engine power is proportional to the amount of air and fuel that can get into the cylinders. All things being equal, larger engines flow more air and as such will produce more power. If we want our small engine to perform like a big engine, or simply make our bigger engine produce more power, our ultimate objective is to draw more air into the cylinder. By installing a turbocharger, the power and performance of an engine can be dramatically increased.

So how does a turbocharger get more air into the engine?







1 Compressor Inlet
2 Compressor Discharge
3 Charge air cooler (CAC)
4 Intake Valve
5 Exhaust Valve
6 Turbine Inlet
7 Turbine Discharge

The components that make up a typical turbocharger system are:
• The air filter (not shown) through which ambient air passes before entering the compressor (1)
• The air is then compressed which raises the air’s density (mass / unit volume) (2)
• Many turbocharged engines have a charge air cooler (aka intercooler) (3) that cools the compressed air to further increase its density and to increase resistance to detonation
• After passing through the intake manifold (4), the air enters the engine’s cylinders, which contain a fixed volume. Since the air is at elevated density, each cylinder can draw in an increased mass flow rate of air. Higher air mass flow rate allows a higher fuel flow rate (with similar air/fuel ratio). Combusting more fuel results in more power being produced for a given size or displacement
• After the fuel is burned in the cylinder it is exhausted during the cylinder’s exhaust stroke in to the exhaust manifold (5)
• The high temperature gas then continues on to the turbine (6). The turbine creates backpressure on the engine which means engine exhaust pressure is higher than atmospheric pressure
• A pressure and temperature drop occurs (expansion) across the turbine (7), which harnesses the exhaust gas’ energy to provide the power necessary to drive the compressor

What are the components of a turbocharger?



The layout of the turbocharger in a given application is critical to a properly performing system. Intake and exhaust plumbing is often driven primarily by packaging constraints. We will explore exhaust manifolds in more detail in subsequent tutorials; however, it is important to understand the need for a compressor bypass valve (commonly referred to as a Blow-Off valve) on the intake tract and a Wastegates for the exhaust flow.

Which Turbocharger is Right for Me or more affectionately known as My Turbo & Me
Selecting the proper turbocharger for your specific application requires many inputs. The primary input in determining which turbocharger is appropriate is to have a target horsepower in mind. This should be as realistic as possible for the application. Remember that engine power is generally proportional to air and fuel flow. Thus, once you have a target power level identified, you begin to hone in on the turbocharger size, which is highly dependent on airflow requirements.
Other important factors include the type of application. An autocross car, for example, requires rapid boost response. A smaller turbocharger or smaller turbine housing would be most suitable for this application. While this will trade off ultimate power due to increased exhaust backpressure at higher engine speeds, boost response of the small turbo will be excellent.

Alternatively, on a car dedicated to track days, peak horsepower is a higher priority than low-end torque. Plus, engine speeds tend to be consistently higher. Here, a larger turbocharger or turbine housing will provide reduced backpressure but less-immediate low-end response. This is a welcome tradeoff given the intended operating conditions.

Selecting the turbocharger for your application goes beyond “how much boost” you want to run. Defining your target power level and the primary use for the application are the first steps in enabling your Garrett Performance Distributor to select the right turbocharger for you.

Journal Bearings vs. Ball Bearings
The journal bearing has long been the brawn of the turbocharger, however a ball-bearing cartridge is now an affordable technology advancement that provides significant performance improvements to the turbocharger.

Ball bearing innovation began as a result of work with the Garrett Motorsports group for several racing series where it received the term the ‘cartridge ball bearing’. The cartridge is a single sleeve system that contains a set of angular contact ball bearings on either end, whereas the traditional bearing system contains a set of journal bearings and a thrust bearing


Turbo Response – When driving a vehicle with the cartridge ball bearing turbocharger, you will find exceptionally crisp and strong throttle response. Garrett Ball Bearing turbochargers spool up 15% faster than traditional journal bearings. This produces an improved response that can be converted to quicker 0-60 mph speed. In fact, some professional drivers of Garrett ball-bearing turbocharged engines report that they feel like they are driving a big, normally aspirated engine. Tests run on CART turbos have shown that ball-bearings have up to half of the power consumption of traditional bearings. The result is faster time to boost which translates into better drivability and acceleration.
On-engine performance is also better in the steady-state for the Garrett Cartridge Ball Bearing



Reduced Oil Flow – The ball bearing design reduces the required amount of oil required to provide adequate lubrication. This lower oil volume reduces the chance for seal leakage. Also, the ball bearing is more tolerant of marginal lube conditions, and diminishes the possibility of turbocharger failure on engine shut down.

Improved Rotordynamics and Durability – The ball bearing cartridge gives better damping and control over shaft motion, allowing enhanced reliability for both everyday and extreme driving conditions. In addition, the opposed angular contact bearing cartridge eliminates the need for the thrust bearing commonly a weak link in the turbo bearing system.

Competitor Ball Bearing Options – Another option one will find is a hybrid ball bearing. This consists of replacing only the compressor side journal bearing with a single angular contact ball bearing. Since the single bearing can only take thrust in one direction, a thrust bearing is still necessary and drag in the turbine side journal bearing is unchanged. With the Garrett ball bearing cartridge the rotor-group is entirely supported by the ball bearings, maximizing efficiency, performance, and durability.

Ball Bearings in Original Equipment – Pumping up the MAZDASPEED Protegé’s heart rate is a Garrett T25 turbocharger system. With Garrett technology on board, the vehicle gains increased acceleration without sacrificing overall efficiency and it has received many rave reviews from the world’s top automotive press for it’s unprecedented performance.

Power Chart
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
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Turbos Continued


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Air/Fuel Ratio tuning: Rich v. Lean, why lean makes more power but is more dangerous
When discussing engine tuning the 'Air/Fuel Ratio' (AFR) is one of the main topics. Proper AFR calibration is critical to performance and durability of the engine and it's components. The AFR defines the ratio of the amount of air consumed by the engine compared to the amount of fuel.

A 'Stoichiometric' AFR has the correct amount of air and fuel to produce a chemically complete combustion event. For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric , A/F ratio is 14.7:1, which means 14.7 parts of air to one part of fuel. The stoichiometric AFR depends on fuel type-- for alcohol it is 6.4:1 and 14.5:1 for diesel.

So what is meant by a rich or lean AFR? A lower AFR number contains less air than the 14.7:1 stoichiometric AFR, therefore it is a richer mixture. Conversely, a higher AFR number contains more air and therefore it is a leaner mixture.

For Example:
15.0:1 = Lean
14.7:1 = Stoichiometric
13.0:1 = Rich

Leaner AFR results in higher temperatures as the mixture is combusted. Generally, normally-aspirated spark-ignition (SI) gasoline engines produce maximum power just slightly rich of stoichiometric. However, in practice it is kept between 12:1 and 13:1 in order to keep exhaust gas temperatures in check and to account for variances in fuel quality. This is a realistic full-load AFR on a normally-aspirated engine but can be dangerously lean with a highly-boosted engine.

Let's take a closer look. As the air-fuel mixture is ignited by the spark plug, a flame front propagates from the spark plug. The now-burning mixture raises the cylinder pressure and temperature, peaking at some point in the combustion process.

The turbocharger increases the density of the air resulting in a denser mixture. The denser mixture raises the peak cylinder pressure, therefore increasing the probability of knock. As the AFR is leaned out, the temperature of the burning gases increases, which also increases the probability of knock. This is why it is imperative to run richer AFR on a boosted engine at full load. Doing so will reduce the likelihood of knock, and will also keep temperatures under control.
There are actually three ways to reduce the probability of knock at full load on a turbocharged engine: reduce boost, adjust the AFR to richer mixture, and retard ignition timing. These three parameters need to be optimized together to yield the highest reliable power.

Wheel trim topic coverage
Trim is a common term used when talking about or describing turbochargers. For example, you may hear someone say "I have a GT2871R ' 56 Trim ' turbocharger. What is 'Trim?' Trim is a term to express the relationship between the inducer* and exducer* of both turbine and compressor wheels. More accurately, it is an area ratio. * The inducer diameter is defined as the diameter where the air enters the wheel, whereas the exducer diameter is defined as the diameter where the air exits the wheel.
Based on aerodynamics and air entry paths, the inducer for a compressor wheel is the smaller diameter. For turbine wheels, the inducer it is the larger diameter



Example #1: GT2871R turbocharger has a compressor wheel with the below dimensions. What is the trim of the compressor wheel?
Inducer diameter = 53.1mm
Exducer diameter = 71.0mm



Example #2: GT2871R turbocharger (part # 743347-1) has a compressor wheel with an exducer diameter of 71.0mm and a trim of 48. What is the inducer diameter of the compressor wheel?
Exducer diameter = 71.0mm
Trim = 48



The trim of a wheel, whether compressor or turbine, affects performance by shifting the airflow capacity. All other factors held constant, a higher trim wheel will flow more than a smaller trim wheel.

However, it is important to note that very often all other factors are not held constant. So just because a wheel is a larger trim does not necessarily mean that it will flow more.

Understanding housing sizing: A/R
A/R (Area/Radius) describes a geometric characteristic of all compressor and turbine housings. Technically, it is defined as:
the inlet (or, for compressor housings, the discharge) cross-sectional area divided by the radius from the turbo centerline to the centroid of that area



The A/R parameter has different effects on the compressor and turbine performance, as outlined below.

Compressor A/R - Compressor performance is comparatively insensitive to changes in A/R. Larger A/R housings are sometimes used to optimize performance of low boost applications, and smaller A/R are used for high boost applications. However, as this influence of A/R on compressor performance is minor, there are not A/R options available for compressor housings.

Turbine A/R - Turbine performance is greatly affected by changing the A/R of the housing, as it is used to adjust the flow capacity of the turbine. Using a smaller A/R will increase the exhaust gas velocity into the turbine wheel. This provides increased turbine power at lower engine speeds, resulting in a quicker boost rise. However, a small A/R also causes the flow to enter the wheel more tangentially, which reduces the ultimate flow capacity of the turbine wheel. This will tend to increase exhaust backpressure and hence reduce the engine's ability to "breathe" effectively at high RPM, adversely affecting peak engine power.
Conversely, using a larger A/R will lower exhaust gas velocity, and delay boost rise. The flow in a larger A/R housing enters the wheel in a more radial fashion, increasing the wheel's effective flow capacity, resulting in lower backpressure and better power at higher engine speeds.

When deciding between A/R options, be realistic with the intended vehicle use and use the A/R to bias the performance toward the desired powerband characteristic.

Here's a simplistic look at comparing turbine housing geometry with different applications. By comparing different turbine housing A/R, it is often possible to determine the intended use of the system. Imagine two 3.5L engines both using GT30R turbochargers. The only difference between the two engines is a different turbine housing A/R; otherwise the two engines are identical:

1. Engine #1 has turbine housing with an A/R of 0.63
2. Engine #2 has a turbine housing with an A/R of 1.06.
What can we infer about the intended use and the turbocharger matching for each engine?

Engine#1: This engine is using a smaller A/R turbine housing (0.63) thus biased more towards low-end torque and optimal boost response. Many would describe this as being more "fun" to drive on the street, as normal daily driving habits tend to favor transient response. However, at higher engine speeds, this smaller A/R housing will result in high backpressure, which can result in a loss of top end power. This type of engine performance is desirable for street applications where the low speed boost response and transient conditions are more important than top end power.

Engine #2: This engine is using a larger A/R turbine housing (1.06) and is biased towards peak horsepower, while sacrificing transient response and torque at very low engine speeds. The larger A/R turbine housing will continue to minimize backpressure at high rpm, to the benefit of engine peak power. On the other hand, this will also raise the engine speed at which the turbo can provide boost, increasing time to boost. The performance of Engine #2 is more desirable for racing applications than Engine #1 where the engine will be operating at high engine speeds most of the time.


For more advance reading you can visit Turbos For Expert users

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Downpipes & Exhaust

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Downpipes and exhaust systems are the manner of moving exhaust gases out of the car. With or without a turbo you will want a way to move these gases from the exhaust side of the head out the back of the car. With a turbo system you will need a downpipe to take the exhaust gases from the exhaust side of the turbo housing to the exhaust system.

Downpipes
A downpipe is usually nothing more than a pipe that moves the exhaust gases from the turbo housing to the exhaust system. Depending on the type of turbo you went with most people will have either 2.5 or 3 inch downpipe. You can get downpipes from most turbo shops. On the site there are plenty of members who make custom downpipes. You can pm Kracker or Fade2Black to make you a custom downpipe.

Exhaust Systems
Exhaust systems are not as important as you think. You do want one that provides some back pressure but is also free flowing. Some people don’t put an exhaust system on and just ride around open downpipe. Although it sounds cool be prepared to be targeted by the police. In all honesty going to a local muffler shop and having them do a custom 3in exhaust is the most common solution for turbo exhaust. However, here are two links where you can buy exhaust systems and exhaust mufflers. Visit Exhaust Systems or visit Exhaust Mufflers. Btw please be aware you need to contact clubrsx to talk with a member of the staff for more details about the exhaust systems or mufflers before you make a purchase.


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Intercooler Piping


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Intercooler piping is the piping that runs from the compressor side of the turbo to the manifold. It’s what delivers the compressed air into the manifold. There are three types of ic piping. One is for tubular turbo manifolds, one of log style manifolds, and the other is custom. Unless you are a professional at cutting and measuring piping I would not suggest the custom even though it is the cheapest. If you want to make a custom piping kit you will need to talk to clubrsx because it’s a very detailed process.

Because of where the tubular manifolds place the turbo you need a certain intercooler piping kit. If you go with a full race or peakboost manifold you can use a full race or peakboost kit. The same goes for log styles kits. Log manifold piping kit is only good for the log manifolds. Obviously a custom kit is made to fit and will work for any manifold. Here are some links to visit for kits and custom piping information.

Purchasing Links
Reading Links

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Wastegates


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Wastegates are simple yet important devices. They allow you to set a maximum boost that can be achieved. It works by letting exhaust gases by pass the exhaust housing so that the exhaust fan doesn’t spin as fast and therefore too much boost is not created. This amount of by passed boost is controlled by the spring in the in the wastegate. When the pressures from the gases exceed the pressure created by the spring the spring gives and opens a valve it was holding shut. This allows the gases to escape and by pass the turbo housing. There are two general size of wastegates. There are the 38 and 44mm wastegates. The size you get is determined by the manifold you choose. For example the treadstone manifold uses a 38mm wastegate. Please check with the store to confirm which wastegate your manifold supports.



Also wastegate springs measure resistance pressure in bars instead of psi. So to help you out I have placed a bar to psi conversion table.


Links

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Blow Off Valves


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Blow off valves are essential to keeping a healthy turbo. They are also one of the main reason people love turbos is for the cool sounds the blow off valve makes. But it has a practical use as well. The compressor housing pushes compressor air through the intercooler piping into the intake manifold. This is good as long as the throttle body is open, but when you let off the gas the compressor air has no where to go and the pressure continues to build and can eventually start to push back against the blades of the compressor housing. To prevent this compressor surge the blowoff valve releases that pressure in the piping when the throttle body is closed. It uses a vacuum connection on the intake manifold to control when to release the pressure. Basically when the throttle body is closed and the last of the air in the manifold is sucked out it creates pressure inbalance. At this point there is more pressure in the piping than in the intake manifold. This pressure indifference is what causes the blow off valve to go into actions. Because there is more pressure pushing on the valve on the piping side than air from the manifold side, the valve opens up releasing that in the piping until the pressure is balanced once again. All blow off valves are the same it’s all dependent on what you want, and what sound you like.

Links


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Intake Manifolds


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Intake manifold may seem like a non turbo mod but it can be a very helpful mod for our turbo cars. Honda actually makes a very efficient manifold, however they did not put it on the rsx. The manifold is called the RBC manifold. Most turbo users who want to get the most out of their system spend the extra money, to get the better free flowing manifold. If you decide to go with the manifold there are two parts you should go with. First is the manifold it’s self, and the second is the hondata intake manifold gasket. The manifold gasket is made to conduct less heat, and heat is the enemy of engines and power. You may ask your self why would you want to put the money into a new manifold, and the answer is you want to provide the best air for flow your engine. Imagine with the PRB manifold (stock rsx) your car has asthama, the rbc will fix that. It allows the car to breath better, and for a better air flow and air deliverence.

Links
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Map Sensors


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Map sesnors are very important because they allow your ecu to read larger intake air pressures which are associated with boosted setups. Map sensors are pretty straight forward. Just besure you follow the installation guides because if you don’t you will destroy your mapsensor and you will have to buy a new one.

Links

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Gauges


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Gauges are a debatable modification. Some people say that gauges are a ricers toy while others vouch for their capability to give the driver access to vital information about the car. There are a lot of different gauges out there. Below I have listed some of the most important gauges. You will need to choose how many gauges you want to run and then choose a piller pod to put the gauge in.

There are two types of boost gauges. One is an electrical gauge which measure the boost and then sends a signal to the gauge cluster that is correlated into a reading, the other is mechanical which has a hose which runs to the gauge from a vacuum source and displays the reading. Electrical is more accurate, but also more expensive. It is up to you as to which type you go with, and which manufacturer. You can see all the gauges that clubrsx sales here. If you want more help don’t be afraid to ask, or to call the store for help.

AEM Wideband EUGO Gauge
One of the most common gauges used by boosted car is the air to fuel ratio gauge. This gauge measure the ratio of the amount of air vs the amount of gas going into the motor. This gauge is important just to give you an idea of if your running rich or lean. To little gas and you won’t get the power you want, and to much gas you can hurt your motor by having to hot of an explosion. However most standard air to fuel gauges don’t have a wide enough range to boosted applications. This problem is overcome by the wideband eugo gauge. It gives the user the ability to measure lower a/f ratio values. You can get more information about the gauge, and purchase the gauge here AEM Wideband EUGO Gauge

Boost Gauge
This is without a doubt the most common gauge of all, however that doesn’t make it the most useful. This gauge is really more for appearance than anything else. It’s good for seeing your boost levels however, your boost is controlled by your boost controller. If want some examples see here Boost Gauge Showoff Thread

Fuel Pressure Gauge
Fuel Pressure is not one you see often. Most people ignore this one because they can get an idea of how their fuel system is acting by their a/f gauge. That is not true because you could have an air leak which will affect you’re a/f gauge, but your fuel system is fine. It’s totally up to the user to choose which gauges. They want. If you use your gauges for practicality then a fuel pressure gauge is important, if they are just for looks then not so much.

Oil Pressure Gauge
Last but not least is the Oil Pressure Gauge. This gauge is important because it’s important to keep a right amount of oil in your car. Without enough oil you motor will seize up. Because the turbo uses oil as well you often need more than the 5 quarts that is suggested by the user manual. As a result the gauge is a good way to measure how much oil is in the system.


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Vacuum Box

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An important part of a turbo system is having an adequate vacuum source for all your devices like boost gauge, boost controller, wastegate, map sensor, bov, etc… Because of this it’s hard to find adequate vacuum sources for all these devices. So there is a simpler way to handle all of this. The easiest way is to run one hose from the intake manifold to a vacuum box and from the vacuum box to the other devices. All you need to make it work is hoses, the block, and t fitting. You can get all of that here at the Forced Induction Accessories Page You will have to determine on your own how many slots you need and if you need to block any off. If you have any question about Vacuum Box’s please use the chat threads because these answer are usually pretty short and easy to resolve, so theres no need to waste server space with a new thread.

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Transmission

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The weakest part of this whole endeavor will be the part you probably planed on moding the least. The transmissions in the rsx were not mean to hold powers over the 300 to 350 range, 400 really pushes the trannies to their limits. Because of this you need to be prepared to do tranny work. Until recently there was no way except to do constant gear replacements. However, Bullhead gears recently came out with a gear set they say is strong enough to hold up to the pressures demanded by a boosted rsx. The best person to speak with on the forums is fade2black. He can also be reached at the crsx store. He has rebuilt enough transmissions that he could probably do it in his sleep. If you have any questions you would get the best results by directing your questions to him

Bullhead Gears
As I stated above the only recourse we had was to do yearly gear rebuilds on our transmissions. However, clubrsx has introduced Bullhead Gears. They were the first to use these gears, that are imported all the way from Australia. If you want more information on the bullhead gears please visit the two links below, or you may contact fade2black as he tested them personally.
Transmission Rebuilds and work
If you do end up needing transmission work done you might consider having clubrsx do they work. They do a very good job, and have tons of experience working on rsx transmissions. They are also very well priced. If you have any questions just visit here for more information.

Limited Slip Differentials
One of the important aspects of boosting a car is dealing with how to get the power to the ground. One problem you will face is that with the stock differential you will often spin out of control if you just try to punch it, especially in a lower gear. One way to prevent this is to swap out the stock differential with a limited slip differential. Again this work can be done through the clubrsx store if you wish and they even sell the lsd’s. Just contact fade2black for more information.

Cluthces
Clutches are a very important part of the build. You don't really have a choice to upgrade the clutch. If you leave the stock clutch in it won't last very long at all. Based on what horsepower level you want determines what clutch you should go with. The most common clutch upgrades go with either stage 3 or stage 4. For the really high horsepower applications you can go with the twin disc clutches, but those put a lot of stress on the transmission. Visit the store for more informaiton. Clubrsx Store - Clutch Section

Flywheel
One thing most people upgrade as well is the flywheel. The stock flywheel is very bulky and heavy. Most people opt to go with a lighter flywheel. This will give you smoother shifting and help with your shifting time, which is important when racing. Notice i said help with your shifting time. The shifting time is still mostly affected by the capabilities and expierences of the driver.
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
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ECU Management

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Perhaps the most important investment you will make outside of the turbo and manifold it’s self is the ecu management. For our cars there is no competition, Hondata is absolutely the best for ecu management software. However, they come at a price. You may see threads about others like AEM or Emanage. While AEM has it’s advantages it doesn’t hold a candle to Hondata. But as far as emanage goes don’t waste your money. If you are stupid enough to buy emanage, or crazy enough to buy AEM please don’t worry about posting because you will just be :laughat: relentlessly. The best thing for you to do is to invest in Hondata Kpro. Kpro gives you the ability to modify you ecu setting. This is what is done when you get a tune done. If you don’t get a ecu management system you car will suck and not perform as you want. If you have any questions about kpro just ask them in the chat thread. However most other ecu questions should be directed at the ECU and Tuning Forum. One thing to consider before you purchase KPRO. Kpro is different for the 05+ Rsx because it requires a new Adapter Harness. Also below is a Kpro Instructional DVD, the DVD is very good for learning the basic and history of KPRO

Links

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Engine Rebuilds


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One of the most important things to decide is to choose if you are going to upgrade your motor internals. The stock rsx has been show to hold 350 whp without much problems. However anything about that you take a lot of risk of damaging or destroying your motor. Just take a qucik brouse through the turbo forum and most likely you will find quite a few "Help: I blew my motor" threads. Engine Rebuilds are the most work intestive parts of the build process. The most important thing to understand about the rebuild stage is compression ratios. The stock rsx has 11.0:1 compression ratios. This ratio is good for naturally aspirated motors, but with a boosted car you want to go with a lower compression in order to prevent premeature detoniation (aka knock). Knock happens when the gases inside the motor explode on thier own, without a spark from the spark plug. This happens because the air and gas are compressed to the point where they spontaneously combuste. Most turbo cars run a 9:1 to 10:1 ratios. The lower the compression ratio the more you can advance the fuel and ignition tables (which are what give you power). However, the draw back is that the lower the compression the less exhaust gases you have, so the longer it takes to spool your turbo. It's all a matter of give and take.

Compression ratio with boost


Before discussing compression ratio and boost, it is important to understand engine knock, also known as detonation. Knock is a dangerous condition caused by uncontrolled combustion of the air/fuel mixture. This abnormal combustion causes rapid spikes in cylinder pressure which can result in engine damage.

Three primary factors that influence engine knock are:

Knock resistance characteristics (knock limit) of the engine: Since every engine is vastly different when it comes to knock resistance, there is no single answer to "how much." Design features such as combustion chamber geometry, spark plug location, bore size and compression ratio all affect the knock characteristics of an engine.

Ambient air conditions: For the turbocharger application, both ambient air conditions and engine inlet conditions affect maximum boost. Hot air and high cylinder pressure increases the tendency of an engine to knock. When an engine is boosted, the intake air temperature increases, thus increasing the tendency to knock. Charge air cooling (e.g. an intercooler) addresses this concern by cooling the compressed air produced by the turbocharger

Octane rating of the fuel being used: octane is a measure of a fuel's ability to resist knock. The octane rating for pump gas ranges from 85 to 94, while racing fuel would be well above 100. The higher the octane rating of the fuel, the more resistant to knock. Since knock can be damaging to an engine, it is important to use fuel of sufficient octane for the application. Generally speaking, the more boost run, the higher the octane requirement.
This cannot be overstated: engine calibration of fuel and spark plays an enormous role in dictating knock behavior of an engine.

Compression ratio is defined as:

CompressionRatio = Displacement Volume + Clearance Volume
Clearance Volume​
or


CR = Vd + Vcw
Vcw​

where
CR = compression ratio
Vd = displacement volume
Vcv = clearance volume




The compression ratio from the factory will be different for naturally aspirated engines and boosted engines. For example, a stock Honda S2000 has a compression ratio of 11.1:1, whereas a turbocharged Subaru Impreza WRX has a compression ratio of 8.0:1.

There are numerous factors that affect the maximum allowable compression ratio. There is no single correct answer for every application. Generally, compression ratio should be set as high as feasible without encountering detonation at the maximum load condition. Compression ratio that is too low will result in an engine that is a bit sluggish in off-boost operation. However, if it is too high this can lead to serious knock-related engine problems.

Factors that influence the compression ratio include: fuel anti-knock properties (octane rating), boost pressure, intake air temperature, combustion chamber design, ignition timing, valve events, and exhaust backpressure. Many modern normally-aspirated engines have well-designed combustion chambers that, with appropriate tuning, will allow modest boost levels with no change to compression ratio. For higher power targets with more boost , compression ratio should be adjusted to compensate.

There are a handful of ways to reduce compression ratio, some better than others. Least desirable is adding a spacer between the block and the head. These spacers reduce the amount a "quench" designed into an engine's combustion chambers, and can alter cam timing as well. Spacers are, however, relatively simple and inexpensive.

A better option, if more expensive and time-consuming to install, is to use lower-compression pistons. These will have no adverse effects on cam timing or the head's ability to seal, and allow proper quench regions in the combustion chambers.


Now if you decide to upgrade your motor these are the things you will need to consider.

1. Will you be doing the work yourself? This is important to decide cause engine work is very expensive and time consuiming. Just know that if you decide to work on it go ahead and make a budget and time line. Then multiply the budget by at least too, and the timeline by at least 3 in order to get realistic goals. I know that may be hard to believe but believe me ask anyone on the board shit happens. To explain this here are some of the things that you will have to consider.

Tapping the Oil Pan
One of the ways the the bearing says lubricated is by running oil through it. You have a feed line which comes off of the engine block, and then is drained from the turbo back to the oil pan so the oil can be reciruculated.

Crank Bearings & Polishing
One thing that needs to be check carefully is the crank. Due to problems with the crank no being 100% balanced or knock the rod ends can wear unevenly on the crank. Because of this the crank may need to be polished. Don't take this to lightly. Even the best of the best (aka fade2black) had taken to much off of a crank and had a couple grand paper weight. Even if you don't polish the crank you will need to determine what bearing to get for the crank. Anytime you do engine work it's a good idea to replace the bearings. To replace them you will have to look at the color code that corresponds to the bearings and to the crank journal. To do this will require alot of thinking and preperation

First you need to get the bearing codes off the block. These are the Crank Bore Codes



Now you need to get the codes off of the crnak it's self. These are the Main Journal Codes



Now that you have the two codes you can use the chart below to determine what bearing to go with.



2. Rods & Rod Bearings
This is the most important upgrade of the engine build. If any part of the engine gives it's most likely gonna be the rods. And when a rod goes it will destroy your engine. I saw a rod punch a hole in a block where i could put my fist through. I went with manly rods, and everyone has thier own opinion about what rods to go with. You can see all the rods ther store sells here at Crsx - Engine:Rods

I am going to post some more information later about Rod Bearings. I have some pictures but I currently over the limit of 10 pictures per post so I will have to talk to a mod or admin about changing that for this post. In the mean time if you have any question just visit the chat thread.

3. Piston and Piston Rings
Of course one of the most important upgrades is the Piston and Piston rings. Even if you don't upgrade the piston you need to always upgrade the piston rings. As the piston rings wear down they they can damage the piston walls. This is what causes the uneven wear on the cylinder walls we will talk about later. The rings are very difficult to install, and they are easy to break, so be extra careful when installing the rings, and making sure that none of the gaps in the rings line up. So there are a couple of things you need to consider when choosing a pistions

The Compression ratio
You need to choose what compression ratio you want to go with. Again this depends on what your goals are. Most boosted apps stay between 9:1 and 10:1. If you want more information on this just ask.

Piston Size
This is a very hard thing to calculate. The stock piston size is 86mm. However, if you polish the cylinder walls or bore them out you will need to use a digital caliper to measure the diamaeter of the clyinder wall. Because every engine is different there is no standard here, and it's up to you to determine what you need. If you need more help just hit one of us up in the chat threads.

For more information or purchasing infromation just visit the store at CRSX Store - Engine Pistions Section


4. Sleeve and cylinder Walls
One week point in engines is the cylinder walls. It's hard to understand unless you look at what the cylinder walls undergo. If you look at the stresses enduced by the combustion cycle you will get a better understanding of how it affects the cylinder walls.




Intake. During the intake stroke, the piston moves downward, drawing a fresh charge of vaporized fuel/air mixture. The illustrated engine features a 'poppet' intake valve which is drawn open by the vacuum produced by the intake stroke. Some early engines worked this way, however most modern engines incorporate an extra cam/lifter arrangement as seen on the exhaust valve. The exhaust valve is held shut by a spring


Compression. As the piston rises the poppet valve is forced shut by the increased cylinder pressure. Flywheel momentum drives the piston upward, compressing the fuel/air mixture.


Power. At the top of the compression stroke the spark plug fires, igniting the compressed fuel. As the fuel burns it expands, driving the piston downward.


Exhaust. At the bottom of the power stroke, the exhaust valve is opened by the cam/lifter mechanism. The upward stroke of the piston drives the exhausted fuel out of the cylinder.

Inorder to combat the huge stress's that are a part of the combustion cycle, we put sleeves around the cylinder walls to help with the pressure. You can look at the store for sleeve pricing. You will also need to contact a shop to push the sleeve in. If you are intrested clubrsx can do it. Contact fade2black for pricing information.

5. Headgasket
There are some debates as to if aftermarket headgaskets are worth the money. I will leave the decision up to you, but i will say this. I use a stock OEM headgasket. There are two things to consider when thinking about headgasket. You can get a thinner or thicker headgasket. What you need to know is that with a thicker headgasket you lower the compression, and with a thinner headgasket you help to raise the compression. It doesn't affect it to much but it does have some affect on the cr. Just keep that in mind when choosing a headgasket.

6. HeadWork
Head work is not as important as other modifications but it is still important to consider. Head work usually involves cleaning of the head, and potential replacement of valves, springs, and retainers. If you have any questions just ask in the chat thread or contact the clubrsx store.


This is by now means a complete list it's a very simplified overview of what needs to be done but hopefully it will help you in deciding how you want to approch handling your engine rebuild.
 

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GTX35R
Joined
·
30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
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Custom Kits


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Well I have got a lot of pm's about what is involved in making a custom kit so instead of answering each of them individually I decided to just make a list. Now the first thing you have to understand is that there are three factors in making a custom kit. First, your horsepower goals. Second, your price range. Thrid, if your care is going to be a daily driver. To make my life easier i am going to assume that you are going to daily drive your car. One thing you need to consider when looking at this list is how this kit COMES CLOSE TO YOUR GOALS. I don't plan on this kit fitting any person perfect. There are probably going to be things that you want to add or take away based on your own power goals or finacial situation. If you have any questions are want to see what some of the other members on the board have done I have posted links to some of the most popular builds. Just remember deciding your goals and price rage are just the begining and are likely to change as the build goes on (espically the money part). So be as flexible as possible during this stage. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

Links to Popular Build Threads:
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Log Style 400 WHP Kit

Price: $---


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****** DISCLAIMER: This is all a best guess estimate. The prices are subject to change and the build will change based on your goals. This is just an outline to give you a realistic idea of what is involved ******

This Is the Kit that I ended up going with. I wanted 400 whp hosepower mainly cause I drive my car every day and I can't afford to have it down alot and to be replacing parts all the time. From talking to other people, it seems that after the 400 whp barrier parts in the car start giving due to the stress created. Mainly what gives is the tranmission. The Transmission was not designed to handle that kind of stress, and has some inherent weak spots. Of course this can be cured by a set of bullhead gears if you have an extra 3 grand laying around.

If you are looking for a kit that is going to be a lot of fun, but also moderetly priced then you are going to be happy with this kit. 400 whp may not sound like a lot but wait till you get behind the wheel. Now depending on the turbo you choose you can push this kit up to 500 whp but not much beyond that because the log sytle manifold is very restrictive and inefficent when it comes to the flowing of exhaust gases. Overall this kit is for begineers or people who just want a turbo'd car.

Each of these items are links to where you can purchase these items. The final price is based on if you purchase all these items from the provided links. I have done a lot of research and I believe I have assembled the best price list.

Turbo:
Precision SC6152 (400whp around 15lbs of boost)
or
Precision PT67 with .82a/r 4-bolt exhaust hosing and S cover

Turbo Essentials: Price: $1892.00
Treadstone manifold Price: $323.00
Tail 38mm Wastgate w/ 1bar spring Price: $266.00
TiAL 50mm BOV w/ 11psi Spring Price: $221.00
TurboXS BC Price: $77.00
**May require a little custom fitting but is a lot easier than custom piping.**
Greddy IC Kit Price: $846.00
MSD 3-Bar MAP Sensor and Clip Price: $78.00
Vacuum Distribution Block Price: $45.00
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs Price: $36.00
Downpipe: Price: ~$200.00
You will have to email each of them about thier prices I have linked thier names to thier pms.

Fade2Black Downpipe
4-bolt to V-band adapter
3" SS downpipe​
or
Krackers downpipe (aka Krackpipe :rotfl: )
3" 5bolt Flanged Downpipe heat coated​

Engine: Price: $4,002.93
Competition Stage 4 Clutch Price: $400.00
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods Price: $675.33
CP pistons 9.0:1 compression Price: $558.00
New OEM main and rod bearings Price: Depends on Colors Around $100.00
Cometic 86mm headgasket Price: $83.00
ARP headstuds Price: $132.00
RBC intake manifold w/ Modified Hondata IMG & Karcepts Stock TB w/ Ports Price: $375.00
60A Innovative Front Motor Mount Price: $115.00
Dual Oil Outlet Price: $21.10

**If you are going to send your head to portflow let them know if you are going to update the valve springs retainers and all that stuff because they can do that as well. Tell Tom that the members from ClubRsx Reffered you he will do you a good deal.**
PortFlow Clean and basic head work Price $300.00
Brian crower Exhaust Valves Price: $143.25
Brian crower Intake Valves Price: $143.25
Brian Crower Dual Valve Springs Price: $220.00
Brian Crower Titanium Retainers Price: $168.00


**If you want to sleeve your block you can. My reccomendation is if you have the money then go for it.**
Darton Sleeves Price: $569.00
-- I don't know if ClubRsx will put the sleeves in if you send them your block you will have to contact fade2black for more information about that.


Fuel System: Price: $1,069.10
Walbro Intake 255 Fuel Pump w/ install kit Price: $102.00
Precision 1000cc Fuel Injectors w/ clips Price: $332.45
AEM Fuel Pressure regulator Price: $177.00
Fuel Pressure gauge Price: $22.00
Inline fuel filter Price: $96.00
AEM Fuel Rail Price: $225.00

**Can Be Purchased From Jegs or Summit Racining**
-8an feed line
-6an return line

**Various Fittings and Connectors**
I bought these parts from ATPTurbo.com The parts you need may be different so please check withsome before you go buying stuff.
ATP-OIL-006 Straight 1/8" NPT to -4 AN 3 $6.00 $18.00
GRT-GSK-011 Oil inlet feed flange Gasket - Feed Flange (T3) 1 $3.00 $3.00
ATP-OIL-003 45 Degree 1/2" NPT to -10 AN 1 $8.00 $8.00
ATP-FLA-009 Aluminum - Oil Drain Flange (T3/T4) 1 $15.00 $15.00
GRT-GSK-007 Oil Return Gasket - T3 or T04 1 $1.65 $1.65
ATP-OIL-007 Straight 1/2" NPT to -10 AN 1 $6.00 $6.00
ATP-FLA-008 Aluminum - Oil Inlet Flange (T3) 1 $15.00 $15.00

FEED Custom Oil Feed Line 1 $10.00 $10.00
END1: 90DEGREE $10.00 $10.00
END2: 90DEGREE $10.00 $10.00
LENGTH: 36 $18.00 $18.00


**EBAY or Junkyard Only**
Resistor box (DSM)


Suspension & Brakes: Price: $1342.00
Buddy Club N+ Coilovers Price: $1,063.00
Rear and Front Camber Kits Price: $140.00
Hawk Front Break Pads Price: $81.00
Hawk Read Break Pads Price: $58.00



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Full Race 500 WHP Kit

Price: $0



****************************************************************************************************​

Working on making a list give me some time.

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Peakboost 500 WHP Kit

Price: $0



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Turbo List
PeakBoost GT3582R Turbo Kit Price: $3,500.00

**Includes In Kit**
-PeakBoost Manifold w/Lifetime Warranty
-tial 44mm wastegate
-Garrett T3/TO4E(standard, upgrades available)
-2pc 3" ss downpipe w/ all vband connections
-44mm ss dumptube (external dump)
-PeakBoost/PWR vertical flow 24x12x3 front mount intercooler (supports upto 700whp)
-Aluminum charge piping, mandrel bent w/ beaded ends to fit your choice of stock tb placement or RBC
-PWR 4 ply silicone couplers
-Tbolt clamps
-K&N air filter
-Complete heat wrap kit to protect all necessary hoses and wiring

Turbo Essentials:
4” 45 Degree Tube For Filter (spe-9749) Price: $16.95
Coupler For Filter Attachment (cou_4X3_STR) Price: $10.00
MSD 3-Bar MAP Sensor and Clip Price: $78.00
Vacuum Distribution Block Price: $45.00
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs Price: $36.00


Engine: Price: $4,002.93
Competition Stage 4 Clutch Price: $400.00
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods Price: $675.33
CP pistons 9.0:1 compression Price: $558.00
New OEM main and rod bearings Price: Depends on Colors Around $100.00
Cometic 86mm headgasket Price: $83.00
ARP headstuds Price: $132.00
RBC intake manifold w/ Modified Hondata IMG & Karcepts Stock TB w/ Ports Price: $375.00
60A Innovative Front Motor Mount Price: $115.00
Dual Oil Outlet Price: $21.10
Koyo Racing Radiator Price: $359.00
Koyo Radiator Cap Price: $30.00
Samco Radiator Hoses Price: $87.00



**If you are going to send your head to portflow let them know if you are going to update the valve springs retainers and all that stuff because they can do that as well. Tell Tom that the members from ClubRsx Reffered you he will do you a good deal.**
PortFlow Clean and basic head work Price $300.00
Brian crower Exhaust Valves Price: $143.25
Brian crower Intake Valves Price: $143.25
Brian Crower Dual Valve Springs Price: $220.00
Brian Crower Titanium Retainers Price: $168.00

Darton Sleeves Price: $569.00
-- I don't know if ClubRsx will put the sleeves in if you send them your block you will have to contact fade2black for more information about that.

Fuel System: Price: $1,069.10
Walbro Intake 255 Fuel Pump w/ install kit Price: $102.00
Precision 1000cc Fuel Injectors w/ clips Price: $332.45
AEM Fuel Pressure regulator Price: $177.00
Fuel Pressure gauge Price: $22.00
Inline fuel filter Price: $96.00
AEM Fuel Rail Price: $225.00
Bosch Inline Fuel Pump Price: $199.00

**You can get all these from jegs**
-8AN Bulkhead (1) - $16.99
-8AN 45 Degree (1) -$21.99
-8AN Bulkhead Nut (1) -$4.69
-8AN Straight Hose Ends (5) - $49.95
-6AN Straight Hose End (1) - $8.99
-6AN 45deg Hose End (1) - $15.99
-6AN 90deg Hose End (1) - $15.99
-8AN Flare Union (1) - $5.49
-8AN to -6AN Reducer (1) - $6.99
-10AN to -8AN Reducers (2) - $17.98
-8AN Earls Pro-Lite 350 Hose (20 ft) - $163.99
-6AN Earls Pro-Lite 350 Hose (20 ft) - $142.99
10pk -8AN Cushion Clamps - $8.99
10pk -6AN Cushion Clamps - $8.99
Fuel Pump Harness and Relay Kit - $24.99
Bosch 044 Inlet Fitting - $10.00
Bosch 044 Outlet Fitting - $10.00

**EBAY or Junkyard Only**
Resistor box (DSM)
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
·
30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
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Q&A


************************************************** **************************************************​

***** said:
Question: Hey I was reaading ur custom turbo thread and I have a question for u regarding ecu. I was told that u can run a turbo on low boost maybe around 7-9 psi with the stock ecu. I was told that once bigger injectors are installed and the map sensor the computer will adjust itself to the 7-9psi of boost... Is this true

Answer: No the ecu doesn't not compenstate for anything it does basically what it's told to do. Inside the ecu there are 6 tables 2 fuel tables, 2 ignition tables, and 2 cam angle tables 1 table is for low cam (non vtec) and 1 for high cam (vtec). what it does is based on the amount of air that comes in it shoot in a certian amount of gas. The way the ecu controls how much gas goes in is based on the size of the injectors, because it sends an eletrical signal to have the injector open for a certian amount of time. If you have a bigger injector the ecu will still base how long to open the injector on that smaller injector. This basically means you will run extremely rich. ECU Management is vital to the life of your motor espically if you go changing something as drastic a putting a turbo on or messing with the fuel system.
?
 

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GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
reserved 5
 

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The Architect™
Joined
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7,449 Posts
damn, this must have taken you awhile to do.
 

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The Architect™
Joined
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7,449 Posts
Hey b005t3drsx, just to let you know, alot of your links don't work
 

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PPG Krew
Joined
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5,478 Posts
Hey b005t3drsx, just to let you know, alot of your links don't work
:eek:



Hey I updated my parts list a bit. Figured I'd tell you in case you wanted to get the newer list from my build thread to attach. Great thread btw. :thumbsup:
 

·
GTX35R
Joined
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30,385 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Alright guys give me a little while i am gonna go back through it and make some changes. I was really drunk last night towards the end of typing this :rotfl: give me a while i'll make some changes to it. Thanks
 
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