Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 189 Posts

·
N/A to go please...
Joined
·
3,847 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How much whp will my car make FAQ?

I write this in the hopes it will limit the inevitable ‘how much power will I make with ‘x’ mods’ questions that seem to appear on a daily basis. This is not designed to answer technical questions about how dynos work or how to read dyno results. If you want to learn the difference between the importance of peak torque and peak whp, there are several good explanations posted on CRSX already (see ‘other links’ at the end).

Q1: How much whp is my car making??

A1: We don’t know. Sorry, but that’s the simple answer. If you really can’t afford the $40 or so to get it dynoed, we can give you a very liberal approximation if you give us an exact list of your mods, but that’s about it. As well, the number we give you could vary quite a bit from the results you ultimately get depending on what type of dyno you use. Most of the guys here will give you approximations based on what a Dynojet would measure, since it’s the most common one you’ll find in North America.

Q2: There are different types of dynos and they put out different numbers??
A2: Yes! Now you’re starting to understand the difficulty in answering Q1. There are four major types of dynos: The Dynojet, the Mustang Dyno, the Dynopack, and the DynoDynamics Dynamometer. As well, each of the four brands has different versions of their dyno, different calibrations, and different operators, so each one of those can give different results as well.

Q3: How different are the numbers they give?
A3: Not huge, but they can vary. I’ve seen baseline dynos of a type-S on a Mustang dyno as low as 150 peak whp, and as high as 190whp on a Dynopack – that’s over a 25% difference.

Q4: Why isn’t there a standard for dynos then??
A4: Because dynos are not designed for bragging rights – they’re tools for tuning engines. So long as you know where you started and where you end up, you can measure the progress of your performance mods. Somebody who goes from 150whp to 190whp on a Mustang dyno (a 25% increase) is doing way better than somebody who goes from 190whp to 210whp on a Dynopack (only a 10% increase).

Q5: You said the Dynojet is the most common. What are typical numbers from that?
A6: SAE corrected results on an 02-04 type-S with the engine broken in (i.e. at least 5k miles) should be in the 170-175whp range. 05-06 models will do slightly better than that (175-180whp).

Q6: My type-S only has a CAI and put down 200whp on the local dyno that the operator swears gives the same numbers as a Dynojet. Isn’t it possible I have a ‘factory freak’ and you’re just jealous?

A6: You’re certainly welcome to think that if it makes you feel better about your car. Personally, I think the ‘factory freak’ thing is highly overrated. These engines are put together in tightly controlled circumstances by machines that are re-checked by humans that are re-re-checked by machines etc. The typical car manufacture tolerance for engine power output is less than 5%. That means that if 170whp is the average result of a type-S on a given dyno, the max you would see is 175whp and the lowest would be 165whp. If you really think you’re putting down 200whp from just a CAI, that means you should (with some reasonable launching skills) be able to break into the 13s on a 1/4 mile run, so please post up your slip when you do.

Q7: My type-S put down 170whp like you said it would, but my buddy (who lives 2,000 miles away) got 185whp. We’re both stock. We both used a Dynojet! What gives?
A7: There are several possible explanations. First and foremost, are both your numbers SAE corrected? Atmospheric conditions such as temperature and pressure affect how your car’s engine performs. Simply put, the lower the air temp and the higher the pressure, the more power your car makes. To compensate for this, all Dynos have the ability to correct to an ‘SAE’ standard of conditions. If your friend gave you his ‘actual’, 'STD', or 'DIN' whp instead of his ‘SAE’ whp, there could be quite a difference. Other factors could be different versions of the Dynojet (maybe you were on an above ground 248 model, and he was on a Pit style 224?), different software revisions of the Dynojet software, the dyno not being calibrated properly, or even a ‘blip’ in the dyno results. Check where the ‘peak’ whp/torque happened. Does it correlate to the rest of the power curve? As well, check what gear the dynos were done in. The RSX is best done in 4th gear. If your friend did it in 3rd gear, that can also affect the results.

Q8: I have a stock type-S and I now understand where I’d start for power. What will the various mods available give me?

A8: It depends completely on the brand, design, and quality (i.e. no cheap EBay crap) of the part in question, but typical gains on a Dynojet over stock (i.e. this is your first and only mod) would include:

a. ColdAirIntake – 10-15whp ($200-$250 - Injen, AEM)
b. ShortRamIntake – 7-10whp ($150-$200 - Injen, AEM)
c. Race Header – 15-20whp ($350-$1000 - DC, Jackson Racing, SSR, Strup, Comptech, Toda)
d. Shorty Header – 5whp ($250-$500 - DC, Comptech, PIT, Strup)
e. test pipe (already part of a RH) – 5-10whp (Megan, Unforgettable)
f. Exhaust – 4-6whp ($500-$1000 - several brands available)
g. Hondata reflash – 10-15whp ($600-$1000)
h. aftermarket cams – 5-25whp ($600-$1500 - ITR, IPS, Toda, Crower)
i. Basic supercharger - 40whp (and up) ($3000+ - Comptech)
j. Basic turbo setup - 50whp (and up) ($2500+ - Greddy)
etc.

[Prices and popular brands listed for reference only.]

Q9: OK! So a CAI, RH, exhaust, and Hondata gives me 15+20+5+15 = 55whp more, or 225whp total on a dynojet, right?
A9: Nope. Sorry, but the sum of the whole does not equal the sum of the parts (and you also assumed the max gain from each mod, which is hardly realistic). Let’s say you weigh 170lbs and you want to gain weight by weight-lifting. You know you can easily gain 15lbs by only working on your legs or 15lbs by working on your chest. You do the legs first and gain 15lbs. Then you work on your chest, but the work you’ve already done on your legs has already benefited your chest somewhat, so you can’t gain an additional 15 lbs – maybe only 10lbs. You’re max total weight gain is 25lbs, not 30lbs. Car mods are the same way.

Q10: So what would I be at?
A10: Probably close to 200whp, but it’s hard to say. See Question #1. :)

Q11: I want even more power than these ‘typical’ mods you’re listing can give. What else can I do?
A11: Go to the ‘All Motor’ forum or ‘Forced Induction’ forum and read. The threads there will give you all sorts of tips on some of the things you can do to get you the power gains you crave.

Q12: I saw this resistor on Ebay for $1 that’s supposed to give +25whp gains!! Or this thing called the turbonator!! Do they really work???
A12: Sorry, but no, they don't. Honest! There is no cheap and inexpensive way to mod your car if you want results, and using cheap 'ghetto' mods can hamper performance, or even damage your engine. Also, sorry, but there is no secret online store that sells the mods you need at 50% less than everybody else. If you wanna play, you gotta pay.

Other handy links:

SAE explained: http://wahiduddin.net/calc/cf.htm
Reading a dyno: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=327121
Dynojet info (you can find info on local Dynojets in your area here as well): http://www.dynojet.com
 

·
N/A to go please...
Joined
·
3,847 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
busa said:
your percentages are off... but other than that.. gj on the writeup
Oh c'mon - they're approximates! I wasnt about to start saying your max stock whp with a 5% variance is 178.5whp when the moon is full and the wind is blowing North. :)

But thanks!

Peace

WhiZ
 

·
o hai
Joined
·
9,439 Posts
WhiZ said:
Oh c'mon - they're approximates! I wasnt about to start saying your max stock whp with a 5% variance is 178.5whp when the moon is full and the wind is blowing North. :)

But thanks!

Peace

WhiZ
lol yea i know...but i'm asian... math is like.. sewn into my DNA. and of course they are estimates for questions that lack much of the accuracy the people that ask look for.
 

·
N/A to go please...
Joined
·
3,847 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
No sticky. There are too many deserving threads out there that deserve 'sticky' status. What I think should be done is there should be a 'All new users please read these threads' sticky with links to the various threads that new users should read. But that's just my $.02 - anthentheresERIC is in charge of the Basics and I'm sure he'll do what is best for the forum. If this info helps new users out and cuts down on the constant repeat questions that the basics always seem to generate, I'll be happy.

MSFB has a list of good threads for noobs to read in post #3 of this thread (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=284257), but it's kinda out of the way, and not really at the top and clearly marked where I think it should be. Again, just my $.02

But I'm glad you like my contribution. :eek:

Peace

WhiZ
 

·
Registered
2003 Acura RSX 5spd
Joined
·
5,219 Posts
Nice write up. But i disagree on the gains, they don't seem accurate. :(
a. ColdAirIntake – 10-15whp
From personal experiance, i lost 2hp after putting my CAI. I even took a baseline dyno. The only reason i didn't take my CAI off was that i might yeild some gains after more bolt ons. And after seeing tons and tons of CAI threads on the forums the average gain seems to be about 3-6hp.(just from what i have seen)
b. ShortRamIntake – 7-10whp
I have yet to see a SRI putting out 10whp.
c. Race Header – 15-20whp
Where are you getting these #'s from? 20whp!?
g. Hondata reflash – 10-15whp
...

I hope to not cause and arguements with my disagreement. This is a great write up, but i think it needs to be more accurate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RAGANRSX

·
N/A to go please...
Joined
·
3,847 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Lightning said:
I hope to not cause and arguements with my disagreement. This is a great write up, but i think it needs to be more accurate.
That's why A8 says It depends completely on the brand, design, and quality (i.e. no cheap EBay crap) of the part in question

I understand and appreciate that your CAI did not perform as you wanted (and I don't wish to imply it was a 'cheap Ebay crap'), but that is an exception, not a rule. I have seen several dynos (see the dyno thread in All Motor) that support the numbers I quote. Most people go from 170whp to 180-185whp from an AEM or Injen CAI. Yes, a RH really can give 15-20whp from bone stock - it's just not done that often as a RH is usually a second or third mod.

Peace

WhiZ
 

·
700+ HP Club!!!
Joined
·
2,671 Posts
Lightning said:
Nice write up. But i disagree on the gains, they don't seem accurate. :(

From personal experiance, i lost 2hp after putting my CAI. I even took a baseline dyno. The only reason i didn't take my CAI off was that i might yeild some gains after more bolt ons. And after seeing tons and tons of CAI threads on the forums the average gain seems to be about 3-6hp.(just from what i have seen)

I have yet to see a SRI putting out 10whp.

Where are you getting these #'s from? 20whp!?

...

I hope to not cause and arguements with my disagreement. This is a great write up, but i think it needs to be more accurate.
Refer to question #1 :drink:
 

·
N/A to go please...
Joined
·
3,847 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys! I have edited a bit and bolded the questions to hopefully make it a bit easier to read.

Peace

WhiZ
 
  • Like
Reactions: RAGANRSX
1 - 20 of 189 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top