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Played with it this past weekend and have experience with their S100 and S200 systems. You do have to know what you are doing when it comes to EFI tuning, you can guess at it but I don't recommend it. You do need to have the USB pluged into the laptop and the ECU and the ignition on.
 

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NSTLLMNGR said:
no you dont need to be online . the online message is that you are online with the ecu in the vehicle... i realy like it so far .. i went out and datalogged about six run tonight ...i found some lean spots and some rich .. a few knocks.. this is on the k20a310-itrcams-jrhdr-cai... waiting to install the 550 injectors until i better unstand the system...
This is why I started this forum, so that everyone can start to learn and become more knowledge in how it all works.
 

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conradb212 said:
And we appreciate this more than you'll ever know, Chris!!!

As far as I am concerned, the programmable ECU is almost a no-brainer for anyone who is serious about optimal performance. The Hondata reflash is simply a one-size sort of fits all reprogramming that Hondata was nice enough to do for the K-engine crowd well before their programmable unit was going to be available. No matter how many times Hondata states that the reflash was optimized for a certain setup (a CAI in this instance), some folks will complain that the powerband isn't completely smooth with their particular setup. Of course it isn't. It can't. Hence the programmable unit.

The drawback is that a programmable ECU really requires professional attention. For example, I will definitely get it, but suspect that the built-in standard program will still leave me with a "Icebox dip" at 5000 rpm. So I'll either need to learn how to make a few changes myself or find someone who can, and that might run into serious time and money. Then, of course, I am just dying to get the JRSC (can't wait to read about your experiences) and when I do, there'll be more finetuning of the ECU.

One thing I wonder about is the impact of the different size injectors. Stocks are 310, I think, so will the 440s or even 550s (once you need them) totally destroy gas mileage?

I applied for a non-dealer spot in Hondata's WestCoast training seminar, but haven't heard back yet whether I got in or not.
It shouldn't hurt it that much once you have it tuned correctly.
 

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pints99 said:
I wanna know about the injectors. Is it worth upgrading for an n/a application? Is there a rule for injectors like for spark plugs(every so many horsepower go a step colder).
It really depends on how much hp you are making and it is needed. The all motor side of the k-series has been slow to develop so I am not sure at what point a larger injector is going to be needed.
 

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myeverlovinsir said:
Thanks. Here is a quick one. It shipped with the immobilizer off (not selected) under the parameters menu (misc). I tried enabling it to get rid of the flashing 'green key' in the gauge assembly, but all it did was make it so I could not start my car :confused: I quickly went back to disabling it.

How do I get rid of the flashing 'green key' in the gauge assembly?
You might have to pull the bulb to get it to stop. Once activated the car should start again. Did you set it, send it to the ECU and then car shut off? If so, that is how Hondata works. Anytime you upload something to the ECU the car will shut off it it is running. Did you turn it on and try and start the car again? It worked perfect with mine.
 

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emfollin said:
I'm really interested in the k-pro however probably for a different reason then most people. I am installing the GReddy turbo within the next month and am undecided if I want to keep the e-manage or get the k-pro. My reason for wanting the k-pro isn't only that I want to extract as much power as possible but for the fact that I'll have a perfect tune, be able to adjust boost at any time, and not use a piggy back so I won't have to worry about the lean issue. For the people who have tuned with the k-pro, how hard was it to tune it. Would any knowledgeable technician be able to do it? There are a couple shops around here that have done many cars. I guess my question is really would getting the k-pro protect my motor more because of the open/closed loop control and having the perfect tune for my car versus a preprogrammed piggy back system?
There is only one place that I know of that has done it in Flordia. Gains were really good but it took about a day and 62+ dyno runs. After seeing the dyno this past weekend, it still could use another day or so of tuning and it would really smooth out the numbers.

Very very few people will be able to tune this ECU effectively for the next couple of years. It is pretty complex and pretty time consuming to get it perfect. I will be sharing a lot more information over the next couple of days once I get caught up with my emails.
 

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schuessler28 said:
Ok, I've been following this thread for awhile and it's time for me to chime in. I have Spec A's right now. I plan to upgrade to N2's very shortly along with the k-pro as well. I am under the assumption that the toda flash is tuned for 91 octane? Could I actually be losing hp by running 93 octane? Would it be a difficult process to tune it to 93 octane? What can go wrong if the timing is advanced too far? Sorry about all the questions, I just need some concrete data before I purchase. One more thing, can a list of the east cost tuners attending the seminar be posted just for future tuning reference.
I am not sure what it is tuned for but my guess is at least 91 but probably 93. Tuning for 93 is not going to be any different than tuning for 91 or even 89 if you want. Advancing the timing can cause knock or even worse, detonation.

I am not sure about the guys going to that east coast seminar, but make sure they did and that they have a dyno. Also, don't let them use your RSX first. :)
 
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