I just got the Kpro, add your feeback...
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You might have to pull the bulb to get it to stop. Once activated the car should start again. Did you set it, send it to the ECU and then car shut off? If so, that is how Hondata works. Anytime you upload something to the ECU the car will shut off it it is running. Did you turn it on and try and start the car again? It worked perfect with mine.myeverlovinsir said:Thanks. Here is a quick one. It shipped with the immobilizer off (not selected) under the parameters menu (misc). I tried enabling it to get rid of the flashing 'green key' in the gauge assembly, but all it did was make it so I could not start my carI quickly went back to disabling it.
How do I get rid of the flashing 'green key' in the gauge assembly?
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I got a response from Doug and he also questioned if I had the right ECU. I then went out and tried it again. It worked no more flashing green key.K20A2 said:
What I can't understand is why it finally worked and had not in the past. I also had problems with altering my idle speed, and it took almost 20 tries to finally show a diff. idle speed.
Here is what I thought should work as there are not any directions on it:
1. Car is off, key is off, ECU is offline.
2. Make the changes you want to the program.
3. Turn the key to on, ECU is online. Upload the new changes. (This tends to take less than 1 second and does not change a thing from what I can tell)
Back to square one.
Here is what I think worked and is a little diff:
1. Car is on (running), ECU is online.
2. Make the changes you want to the program, or open the program you want to upload.
3. Upload the program while it's running. Engine shuts off and transfer rate is much slower to the ECU, possibly 10 seconds.
4. Restart the car and hope you have the changes you made stored into the ECU.
My concern is there is no download from the ECU function that would allow you to see exactly what the ECU has currently. This makes changes sort of blind, unless they are noticable, like an idle or vtec change. If someone knows more about verifying what the ECU has and what has been uploaded, please help. And correct me if my procedure for uploading is off, I still am not sure that what I did is the best way or if it works all of the time.
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So, whats the correct procedure than? Running the car while sending the map or not running the car. Does anyone know for sure? Is there any direction on how to send the new map to the ecu :dontknow:
Mine should be here anyday, i just dont wanna mess things up. And i wonder howcome hondata could not allow a way to see what the current map is in the ecu. Like you guys say, its like flying blind. This thing definitelly needs a dyno tune. Otherwise you can change maps all day long but dont even realise that you are not may be changing anything. :nervous:
Mine should be here anyday, i just dont wanna mess things up. And i wonder howcome hondata could not allow a way to see what the current map is in the ecu. Like you guys say, its like flying blind. This thing definitelly needs a dyno tune. Otherwise you can change maps all day long but dont even realise that you are not may be changing anything. :nervous:
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I used Pectel tuning software for formula atlantic engines (toyota). In that software as soon as you plug it to the car,the ecu shows you what fuel and ignition map and other vital info is in it. It makes things easier if you can see immediately where you left off in terms of tuning. Then you can make a change if necessary and then send the new map to the ecu.
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I got a question is the program for the GReddy turbo come on that disk or something like that or do you have to like order that.
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No GReddy, but there is a revhard map and a couple of JSRC maps. I think its no big thing, when a map is developed for a particular setup its real easy to share.dupontrsx said:
BTW: There is a new upgrade available for those who have it. This is the second one I know of since I got mine. Upto Version 1.0.6.0 now. :wavey:
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I found that it worked for me when the car was running. Yesterday I advanced the ignition on ALL the maps by 2 degrees. Remember I am running 9.8:1 comp. I uploaded it and think there is an improvement. No knock sensors or detonation yet. Doug suggested this and was looking for his advice. I may go to 3 deg adv. over the K20A2coldair program. I also want to map the A/F and tune for fuel now. My problem is that datalogging the A/F and other things, there is no graduated scale to indicate the actual number at a particular spot on the datalog. It seems like a tough call to see actual numbers where things happen, and when you have multiple traces there is no scales for each of them to indicate the levels on the datalogs.REDLINE JUNKIE said:
I know you can set the ranges of each sensor in the menus, but that is much to general and there should be a better reference on the datalog itself. For example, a plot of the A/F with a default range of 11 to 17 will provide you a line running between those ranges but where exactly it is on the datalog is not easily determined. Most times you are just guessing where the curve really is at any moment. Here is a pic that shows what I mean. Scaling would help alot.
Along the bottom is time, but vertically you have no scaling of each curve. If you could just point to a spot on the curve and get a reading, that would be great, or just some scaling vertically.
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I cant find the updated versions. Are they on hondata website :dontknow:myeverlovinsir said:No GReddy, but there is a revhard map and a couple of JSRC maps. I think its no big thing, when a map is developed for a particular setup its real easy to share.
BTW: There is a new upgrade available for those who have it. This is the second one I know of since I got mine. Upto Version 1.0.6.0 now. :wavey:
What does the update do?
Thx
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935 Posts
Run multiple windows and view the sensor list and display at the same time you scroll the datalog.myeverlovinsir said:It seems like a tough call to see actual numbers where things happen, and when you have multiple traces there is no scales for each of them to indicate the levels on the datalogs.
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I knew I was missing something, that's the help I needed. ThanksHondata said:
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The update is available to the ones who have it. It checks for updates automatically through the Help dropdown menu.REDLINE JUNKIE said:
I'm really interested in the k-pro however probably for a different reason then most people. I am installing the GReddy turbo within the next month and am undecided if I want to keep the e-manage or get the k-pro. My reason for wanting the k-pro isn't only that I want to extract as much power as possible but for the fact that I'll have a perfect tune, be able to adjust boost at any time, and not use a piggy back so I won't have to worry about the lean issue. For the people who have tuned with the k-pro, how hard was it to tune it. Would any knowledgeable technician be able to do it? There are a couple shops around here that have done many cars. I guess my question is really would getting the k-pro protect my motor more because of the open/closed loop control and having the perfect tune for my car versus a preprogrammed piggy back system?
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I paid for mine today, should be sending out ecu on Monday for programming. Hopefully will have it installed for the track on Thursday. Later I will bite the bullet and have it dyno-tuned , because I just know by looking at the examples on Hondata.com of the menus and submenus I would screw things up royally. I can't wait , at least I will have the Hondata#4 preset to keep me company until I can get it properly tuned.
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Ok, I've been following this thread for awhile and it's time for me to chime in. I have Spec A's right now. I plan to upgrade to N2's very shortly along with the k-pro as well. I am under the assumption that the toda flash is tuned for 91 octane? Could I actually be losing hp by running 93 octane? Would it be a difficult process to tune it to 93 octane? What can go wrong if the timing is advanced too far? Sorry about all the questions, I just need some concrete data before I purchase. One more thing, can a list of the east cost tuners attending the seminar be posted just for future tuning reference.
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