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Fix it 'til it's broken
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Discussion Starter #1
I figured that this would be something worthwhile to add to the boards, considering a few boost guys have complained about eradict idling. The problem is often due to a dirty idle control valve, located on the underside of the throttle body.

It's pretty basic stuff, nothing difficult. Begin by removing the misc. electronic plugs from the throttle body. Remove the two bolts and two nuts, then pop the throttle body off. Turn it over, and you'll see the IAC valve bolted to the underside of the TB. Remove the screws, then remove the electronic portion of the valve. After it's removed, soak the valve with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and work the valve back and forth to clear the build-up. I'd let it dry for at least a day (might be overkill, but oh well, I've got the garage to leave the car in), then reinstall.

I haven't cleaned the valve yet, but will post pics tomorrow night to show a before & after.

Here are the pics:

_Underside of the throttle body, with the IAC valve removed:


_IAC valve removed. Notice the electronic portion that should be removed prior to spraying:


_The build-up around the IAC valve:


_Shot with the electronics removed. The valve has a magnetic end:
 

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Monsters of the Midway
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15,107 Posts
^^this will help a lot of people. Props for the good write up.
 

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Fix it 'til it's broken
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12,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
K20A2_S said:
^^this will help a lot of people. Props for the good write up.
Yeah, it's basic stuff, but not something a lot of people have seen before.

Just trying to contribute, although I'm a relative newb to the turbo forums.
 

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Fix it 'til it's broken
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12,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
krystar said:
and the proper way of cleaning it? :)
Spray around the rotary valve with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and work the valve back and forth until the carbon build-up has cleared away. When I took the valve off initially, I could feel the resistance......plus, you can clearly see the build-up.

I'll have pics up sometime later tonight or tomorrow morning.
 

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Just JBWeld it Bro!
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1,426 Posts
I tried this, it fixed the idle a bit, i couldn't get the actual sensor off! Those screws are really on there! So i just sprayed some cleaner through the throttle body and dryed it with compressed air! ON A GOOD NOTE I GOT TO THE KNOCK SENSOR THAT THEY FORGOT TO HOOK BACK UP!!!!!!!!!! 700 Bucks and they forget to plug shit in...not good business!
 

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Registered
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670 Posts
i_ABPTypeS_i said:
I tried this, it fixed the idle a bit, i couldn't get the actual sensor off! Those screws are really on there! So i just sprayed some cleaner through the throttle body and dryed it with compressed air! ON A GOOD NOTE I GOT TO THE KNOCK SENSOR THAT THEY FORGOT TO HOOK BACK UP!!!!!!!!!! 700 Bucks and they forget to plug shit in...not good business!
ah come on, use some technique... the screw is a phillips head... therefore it's not made to take alot of torque... the bolt is obviously seized so it's hard to brake loose... just grab the head w/ vice grips and turn...then do the rest w/ the screw driver...when you put it back in, put some anti-seize on the threads
 

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Fix it 'til it's broken
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Discussion Starter #12
FullEffect256 said:
ah come on, use some technique... the screw is a phillips head... therefore it's not made to take alot of torque... the bolt is obviously seized so it's hard to brake loose... just grab the head w/ vice grips and turn...then do the rest w/ the screw driver...when you put it back in, put some anti-seize on the threads
I ened up using a dremel tool to cut a slot in the head of the bolt, then got a flathead to get it out. The head requires a special bit that I didn't have......I got one of them out with grips, but had to slot the other one. I went and bought replacement bolts a few days back.

Still haven't put it all back together yet, just been busy. Should have some pics up at the end of the week.
 

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Fast, not furious.
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2,281 Posts
Awesome write-up. Please include any more pics of the in process cleaning if possible. + rep on the way. Thanks alot :thumbsup:
 

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Fix it 'til it's broken
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Discussion Starter #14
Just a quick question. Does anyone know if the valve should be lubricated with any sort of oil prior to reinstallation? Everything is clean inside, but I think it would move better if there were a bit of something added in there.

Just looking for thoughts.
 

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Traction is for pussies
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4,404 Posts
soccerman002 said:
Just a quick question. Does anyone know if the valve should be lubricated with any sort of oil prior to reinstallation? Everything is clean inside, but I think it would move better if there were a bit of something added in there.

Just looking for thoughts.
i don't think anything needs to be lubricated
 

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Fix it 'til it's broken
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Discussion Starter #18
rjsdxm said:
did you finish thge cleaning on this i would really like to see pics of the end of the process thank you
Cleaning is finished, just haven't gotten around to taking any pics. I'll be finishing the turbo up tomorrow, so I'll be updating all of my threads then. I bumped up the idle in K-Pro to 1000 and lowered the idle adjustment slider by 2 notches. Hopefully that, coupled with the clean valve, will take care of the idle issues.
 

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Fix it 'til it's broken
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12,041 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Got everything for the turbo reassembled tonight. I'll be starting the car up tomorrow after work. Anyway, here are before & after pics of the idle control valve. In the first pic, you can see the carbon build-up in the areas surrounding the valve. In the second pic, you can clearly see the improvement. I'll know tomorrow whether or not cleaning the valve made a difference.

Before:


After:
 
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