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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
62A STREET MOTOR MOUNTS***

Not sure if there's already a thread up for this but hopefully someone can find some useful info with this. * please don't stare at the rust :eek: Only one other owner & it's winter driven annnnnnyways


Helpful Links i used

(DIY Motor mounts thread - https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=549754 Clear & simple instructions )

Used this motor mount install video to help me as well - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Nbm9BQYrL8&t

Picked up the mounts from Garage16 (shoutout to Rick)
Opening up the box & seeing these mounts man... i'd do it all over again if I could lol

Came with the hardware &:

3 mounts: Driver, Passenger & Rear
2 Brackets: for passenger & driver



Longer center bolt is for the driver side mount, other is for the rear.
Power steering thing just lift's the reservoir so it clears the new passenger mount.
& I attached the ABS ground wire to the passenger mount. I'll post a photo lower in the thread (Thanks to I believe Brian @ hasport, I hit them up on IG to figure out what these parts were for)

Sorry for the huge photos...
Kept flipping my photo the wrong way :randy:

This was a two day process for me. Started kinda late both days & I don't have a garage & the driveway I could use is a little sketchy with jacking/lower cars. I followed most of the steps in Slo_RSX's thread (Scroll up) & Brian Hall's youtube video. This took me a while for both days to finish each mount.
YOU NEED A LOT OF PATIENCE! (mainy with installing, lining up the bolts took me the longest)

I did this WITH the header still install so it made it a little harder but wasn't impossible. Used a piece of 2x6 wood to hold up the engine, just went to a local lumber spot and asked for spare wood. I wasn't sure if it was the safe to put the jack on the tranny but everything seemed fine, Just used a little bit of pressure to hold the weight. (Somehow messed up the heat shield a little so i've had some rattling noises but I sorta took care of it)

Forgot about using some PB blaster or WD40 but everything worked fine without it. but keep it on standby.


Driver side was tackled first, this took a day for me, well at least few hours, started around 4pm, based on my photos it took me 3 hours to put in just the driver side :ugh: BUT IT WORKED OUT.. Anyways took out the intake box & removed the battery but I left the battery tray in because I couldn't find the last bolt or whatever was holding it in place. (which made it a bit harder) -- Took out the center bolt first, than I think I did the frame bolts afterwards, the two bottom bolts you have to use a wrench (a ratchet wrench would have saved me some time) top frame bolt just used a socket & ratchet, then just slide out the mount. Then the transmission mount bolts. Once those bolts were out you can lift up the tranny bracket and it's out.

*** I bought a DEEP 17mm socket so I could take off the *NUT* that sits on the the stud. I didn't want to go through the hassle of using a wrench in there. (if you can get a really deep socket it will help but if not just use a wrench.
Also I made sure to buy some extension bars for this 10", 6" 3" really came in handy for this & other jobs & breaker bars. Might as well spend the money since because I'll need these one day anyways.

Lower driver side frame bolt, you can see the battery tray kinda in the way

the other bolt


Out she goes


Installing the new mount, based on the youtube video I put together the mount and then slid everything in at once(with the center bolt in the mount). I think I did loosely put in the transmission bolts & then the most annoying part was trying to line up the :firemad:*** bottom bolts for the frame but once you get the first few threads in, your good, tighten everything up. I'll try to post the torque specs.
Had to play with the jack a little to lift and or lower the engine a tiny bit.

Tbh I prbly picked the hardest way to get those two bottom bolts that go into the frame in... turn my wheel to one side... one hard over the fender reaching into where the bottom bolt goes & then the other hand through the wheel well lol took a while but it went in, then tightened those two bolts from the bottom of the car/wheel (peeled back some plastic covers to access it)
~~~~
Would look better with all new bolts but this isn't a show car or anything. Maybe later down the road I can replace those



The next day...

Rear Mount
Not sure if the heat shield will be in your way but I removed mine due to rusted out at the bottom & being loose. With the car already being jacked up (front only needed imo) I believe I started with the center bolt and then the frame bolts afterwards

Slide out the mount once the bolts are out, should come out easy (if you headers are on you'll have to find a way to slide it out, just try different angles & you'll get it #patience
Grab the new mount and get. her. in. there. I had a hard time with this one as well, it's very tight with the new rubber. Once I kinda got it in, I would awkwardly try to use the bottom side of a mallet(it was wooden) to get the mount further into place...
had a tough time getting it to line up and stay flush/flat but after a while I got it.
Took a good minute to get the bolts in the bottom but once thats good, slide the center bolt in & tighten down (not the best but I tried using a skinny screwdriver from the top of the car to line up the bolt holes, kinda helped a little)

I Re-used the center bolts and the 3 bottom bolts for the new mount.



Passenger Side Easiest mount from here I just watched the video a few times.
Move the power steering resi, just lift it up and bend it a little to sit on the frame of the car (what i did & im sure most ppl) take off the ABS ground wire.
break the center bolt loose on the mount, loosen the bolt on the engine & then the nut (For me the whole damn stud & nut came out altogether :confused: )
3 bolts that go into the mount braket/frame (make sure to remove the bolts for the ABS UNIT, 3x i think 10mm bolts) slide the unit to the side so you can get that frame bolt. Take out the mount, install the new one.

based on the video & the thread I thought I had the wrong mount for the passenger side but its right. I dropped in the mount assembled as one, lined up the frame/bracket bolts first then after struggling with that I did the engine bolts.

I put the two new bolts in on the engine side, and reused the old bolts for the bracket/frame.





-----------------------------------
Driver Mount vs OEM


Rear Mount vs OEM


& Passenger
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After installing just the driver side mount, you'll notice & hear the difference right away 100% & Not much more of a difference once all 3 were installed. Had to move some loose things in the door pockets & change so they wouldn't add to rattling noise.

There's a lot of vibrations at the start and thats without* the A/C on lol but just like a pair of new shoes it took time for the rubber to break in. Its much better now but still steering wheel will have a slight shake to it when I got the AC on.

It's been 3 weeks & little over 1000 kms on them. I can do digs & theres not more wheelhop, feels a LOT better during pulls & they look great in the engine bay.

Lmk if I left anything out or maybe anything I can add.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, the only thing I kinda messed up was the heatshield near the firewall, I got the guys at the shop to remove one piece & then when I put in my exhaust I kind of broke the rusted rear shield shield just before the muffler.

Removed that whole piece, still had a minor "hanging ringing" sound, turns out out its another piece of the heat shield that covers the firewall... I'm tempted the remove it but it's there to prevent a fire I was told... I think best choice would be either to remove it & maybe get one of those heat wraps for the header OR find a used oem shield and replace it.

Aside from that motor mounts install was flawless
 
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