Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So i love working on my car, so i am trying to install a Kicker amp and sub, i wired the power thread all the way through and the control wire to the radio, i also made sure the ground wire is secure. However, the amp would not power on, it would turn on for a second and then fade out. So i did the Bose bypass under the passenger seat since i read that was best choice, now that I have done that, the speakers are a lot more quiet and my aftermarket amp still wont power, also, the car wont start with the aftermarket amp power cord attached. I figure i need new RCAs since i had to use the ones i had for the aftermarket amp for the bose bypass. However, how will i attach RCAs to the aftermarket amp now with the bose bypass connected to the aftermarket HU? I have a pioneer AVH-601ex head unit if that helps. any recommendations on how i should go about this? i just have an amp and sub just sitting in the trunk now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
So i love working on my car, so i am trying to install a Kicker amp and sub, i wired the power thread all the way through and the control wire to the radio, i also made sure the ground wire is secure. However, the amp would not power on, it would turn on for a second and then fade out. So i did the Bose bypass under the passenger seat since i read that was best choice, now that I have done that, the speakers are a lot more quiet and my aftermarket amp still wont power, also, the car wont start with the aftermarket amp power cord attached. I figure i need new RCAs since i had to use the ones i had for the aftermarket amp for the bose bypass. However, how will i attach RCAs to the aftermarket amp now with the bose bypass connected to the aftermarket HU? I have a pioneer AVH-601ex head unit if that helps. any recommendations on how i should go about this? i just have an amp and sub just sitting in the trunk now
You should run RCAs directly from the aftermarket head unit, (after looking up your specific model) its the ones label "SWR" and "SWL". If you did the bypass, there should barely be any noticeable difference in sound, as that amp doesn't put out much more power if not the same as an aftermarket head unit would. If your amp is shutting off, or not turning on at all, it may either be a power cable issue, or you might not have a good enough ground. Any pictures or more descriptive installation details would help. I had the same issue, I didn't know that it had a bose amp in it, but once I did the bypass I was able to get sound to my sub.

On another note, why does your car not turn on with the amp power cord installed? I would start there, maybe your terminal isn't making a good contact......like I said, a few photos would help. I couldn't get my amp wire on the terminal safely, so I completely replaced the terminals with new ones meant for wiring more power options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well whats happening now after the bose is the front speakers aren't working for some reason, just the back two and the stock sub. Im trying to get those to worn before i install an aftermarket amp. In the bose bypass it said to install rca cables to wires 6 and 19, doesnt that take up the slot for an aftermarket amp?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Ah, ok. I understand what you're trying to do now. You're using the wiring harness with the RCAs on it. You need the regular wiring harness to bypass the Bose amp. The Bose amp bypass is just that.....a bypass, so you're cutting it out of the equation completely. I removed it and trashed it. This is what you need to do, I took it off another post here.

Step 2: Using this wiring diagram as a guide, start splicing the Audio Unit +/- and Speaker +/- wires with a small piece of wire.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13
14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26

1 | GRY/RED | Passenger's Door Speaker (-), Right tweeter (-)
2 | GRN/YEL | Passenger's Door Speaker (+), Right weeter (+)
3 | BLU/RED | Constant power
4 | ------- | Not Used
5 | BRN | Radio Switch
6 | LT GRN | Rear stereo amplifier - bass signal (+)
7 | RED | Audio unit - Right Rear (-)
8 | GRN | Audio unit - Right Front (-)
9 | BLK | Audio unit - Left Rear (-)
10 | BRN | Audio unit - Left Front (-)
11 | ------- | Not Used
12 | BLU/ WHT | Left Rear Speaker (+)
13 | BLU/BLK | Left Rear Speaker (-)

14 | BLU/YEL | Right Rear Speaker (-)
15 | PNK | Right Rear Speaker (+)
16 | BLK | Ground (G502)
17 | WHT/BLU | Shielding
18 | ------- | Not Used
19 | GRN/WHT | Rear Amplifier - bass signal (-)
20 | YEL | Audio Unit - Right Rear (+)
21 | ORN | Audio unit - Right Front (+)
22 | WHT | Audio unit - Left Rear (+)
23 | BLU | Audio unit - Left Front (+)
24 | ------- | Not Used
25 | LT GRN | Left Tweeter (-) drivers door speaker (-)
26 | GRN/BLK | Driver's Door Speaker (+), Left Tweeter (+)



You're gonna cut and splice all these wires together, effectively removing the amp from the system. You're gonna need the regular Metra harness, even though it doesn't state Bose bypass, that's the one you would need for this.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So i need the all wire harness instead of the one with RCAs, since my current harness has RCAs do i still have to do the bypass to use an aftermarket amp for a new sub? Or can i just put together all the wires and the aftermarket amp might work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
So i need the all wire harness instead of the one with RCAs, since my current harness has RCAs do i still have to do the bypass to use an aftermarket amp for a new sub? Or can i just put together all the wires and the aftermarket amp might work?
You can try putting all the wires together with your current harness and see if it works, worst case scenario, you get no audio, get the new harness, and you can install it and everything will work.
I had the same issue when I put my subs in, and it was that bose amp causing issues. Once I did all the re-wiring under the passenger seat I was finally able to get some sound out of the subwoofer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Alright, the Metra harness is coming in. So ill attatch it to the stock harness under the seat and rewire it from there or just remove the stock harness like you said and wire it to the new harness?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
The new harness will go wired behind the stereo. Remove the other harness you had used originally. Do the wiring there the way its supposed to be, should be color matching if i remember correctly.

Then do the re-wiring under the passenger seat. You will be completely removing the amplifier from the equation, because if you do not, you will get EXTREMELY LOUD music, even at 1 level volume, along with an annoying buzzing sound. I took mine out and trashed it, you will get good sound from the head unit alone, they put out about the same wattage to the speakers.

Then you will hook up your subwoofer RCAs to the back of the stereo. NOW you should have sound to all speakers, and the subwoofer should get signal now, and will have sound. Also, I forgot because its been so long if you've done it or not, but don't forget to wire your Blue remote wire from the amplifier, to the other ones. So it should be blue remote wire/blue wire from stereo/and blue wire from the metra harness. All three of those should be attached together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
You can either use quick splices to connect the cables under the seat, or if you're like me, I completely cut off the plugs and directly wired them together, as I have no plans of ever putting back the stock stereo. You will have a few leftover wires after you're done, but that is ok. All I did was cut off the tips so there are no exposed wires, and taped them up so they don't make contact with anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Just finished wiring the metra harness! The audio is perfect now, all i have to do is get new rca cables since i ruined my others due to instructions for a different post. The audio isnt quiet or anything and sounds great, all thats left is to install the new sub and it will be perfect. Thank you for the help, i cant believe the RCAs on the old harness was the issue, but im glad its chamged out now
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top