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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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2,179 Posts
Well, that O-ring type gasket pictured is for the stock B-pipe, so I don't think it will work with any aftermarket catback. Just saying methinks it needs one. A universal 3-hole flange type seems more appropriate.

Man I was gonna say last time, did they rev it up really high to check high pressure? Now it's x2. OK so what is your symptom/problem again? You say it is leaking but they say it is not? Is it just loud and sound poor or you just are bothered that the stock T-bolts are still working for you :dontknow:
 

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Just got this catback and installed last week. Paired with the invidia headers, this setup drones like mad between 2900 - 3500 rpm and makes highway cruising impossible.

Is there a break in period for the catback? Is anyone else having drones with invidia headers and catback?
 

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Just got this catback and installed last week. Paired with the invidia headers, this setup drones like mad between 2900 - 3500 rpm and makes highway cruising impossible.

Is there a break in period for the catback? Is anyone else having drones with invidia headers and catback?
That's odd I have the same setup and no major droning
 

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you sure what you are hearing is not the mid-pipe pressing against sub-frame?
common problem with this exhaust
That could be it. My exhaust does rattle at idle, which is common for the q300.
I haven't had the time to get that fixed.
Is that the cause of the drone? I really hope it is; otherwise, I'd have to go back to my old setup.
 

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Past Driver’s Ed
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497 Posts
In my opinion the Q300 does have a slight drone, but not to the level that will interfere with talking with your passengers or listening to a good tune. Correct any points of contact it may have with the chassis. Maintain about an inch of clearance (or thickness of your fingers) between the exhaust components and the chassis will do.
 

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For mine the rearmost exhaust hanger hook on the passenger side would rattle against the body. I cut a rubber hanger in half and wedged it between the rubbing surfaces which solved the problem
 

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#Inkpot
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I used heat wrap for a long time. The sticky backing doesnt hold all that well.


Then I used heat wrap taped around with duct tape. The exhaust burns part of the tape off but it held the heat wrap on for a long time.

The best thing I used was spare exhaust hanger bushings. I cut them in half and put them on the hanger that was rubbing the body. You'll need to figure out a way to keep them in place though. I used more tape around the hanger to keep the bushings from sliding over.

That method wont work on the sway bar but try the heat wrap and tape around the swaybar. Use enough to fill the gap entirely so instead of going from a rattling to a thudding youll just have a dull vibration.
 

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I used the suggested rubber hose method and the car still drones the same, so I highly doubt it is the contact with the body that is causing the drone.

I guess it's just the combination of all my others mods that make this catback incapably of cancelling out the drone between 2900-3500rpms.

Time to sell this catback :(
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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2,179 Posts
I guess it's just the combination of all my others mods that make this catback incapably of cancelling out the drone between 2900-3500rpms.

Time to sell this catback :(
There is another solution before you go and sell, but it stems into the realm of the experimental, although it has been proven:

You can have a custom T-branch (or Y-) welded into your mid-pipe somewhere. It goes to a dead-end, and all it does is absorb resonate frequencies. But its length determines what wavelengths are quelled, as well as the temperature of the air going through it. I've even seen some with a true ball-shaped one like a true Helmholtz resonator (which is what this is). https://shop.namelessperformance.com/3-downpipe-replaces-overpipe-brz-frs/

You may wonder why you'd want something to resonate because you don't want drone... Well that's because you already have the resonations and you need somewhere for them to go and get stuck/cancelled out.

I've never done it (because I still have stock catback) but I once figured out you'd want something like 36-40" length in this branch to cancel drone centered in the 2800-3000rpm range. I can find some threads on here and update this post.

Or a much easier solution is you can just put your stock viscous passenger motor mount back in and it's solves most drone cases, lol. And driver's side too if ya really want

Threads:
https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=739304 exhaust drone with T-pipe
https://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=987138 how to eliminate exhaust drone
 

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I can get that for you
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775 Posts
If you don’t want exhaust drone , shift your car at the factory recommended shift points... read your owner manual. It’s that easy. I have the Q300 with ITR exhaust 4-2-1 manifold with ITR CAT and Injen CAI. I only get drone in 6th gear going 80mph. And it’s not even bad lol. I also eliminated all rattles by going to a muffler shop, and they cut and welded my exhaust after the CAT with about a 6” piece of high quality stainless stew piping and repositioned the angle of the entire exhaust so it doesent hit anything. This is what I recommend and it cost me roughly $100. No rattles. No fidgeting with crappy rubber shit. I also did wrap my sway bar where it goes under the piping with radiator hose just so I wouldn’t get occasional exhaust slap. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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DC5 ITR header/cat

SanDiegoloco,
Sure like to locate one of those true dc5 itr header/cat. Don't happen to know anyone that has one laying around?
 
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