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Discussion Starter #1
I've been searching and searching for the past 4 days and still haven't got all my answers. I have an 06 Type S so i have the k20z1. I'm basically considering K24 swap cause it supposedly adds more torque without sacrificing driveability since this car is my daily driving car.

1. K24 block + k20z1 = only more torque? or more HP and torque and how much can be expected with a good tune with kpro.

2. I've heard it doesn't really matter which K24 i get since i can just do internal work like pistsons and what not. ( TSX head, the k24a2, is too expensive. )

3. If i get a K24a1 for about 600-700, do the internal work so it'll have higher compression since i wanna stay N/A, and get it installed. How much will it all cost?

My options are either going

1. I/H (no exhaust since i have an 06 type S and the exhaust is good enough) cams, kpro
2. Kpro, K24 swap, maybe I/H if i have enough money after the swap.

If i'm correct one is good for low end torque and power and the other is for the high end power? Any help will be great....thanks
 
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I doing the swap myself right now and should be done friday. Talk to PapiTuyo326 he answer all my question and sold me my motor. Um If your going going F/i that what im doing that why I got the k24a1 for it low compression. Basically I wanted more torque and a safer compression for boosting that why I bought the a1 block. You get more torque with the k24 bottom end...and have same top end power. Since you alreay have a good k20 head swap that over to the k24 bottom end when you get it and just buy the short block no need to buy a long block b/c your head is still good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i mean i know the basics to it, but how much am i looking at. I wanna go all motor because adding F/I on top of what i'm gonna already spesnd on the swap is too much. Doing this would also require some work ont he block like increasing compression? So say i get a k24a1 short block for 600, what other costs am i looking at in doing the full swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well i know that rule...i just wanna know if its worth the money. But i came across a thread and a guy with i think it was an eg with the k20/k24a1 motor with pistons and rods got like 232 hp/192 tq. Thats not even upgrading header/cams/exhaust. IMO if this is true, than doing the swap is way better than spending money on headers/cam/exhaust. And adding those extra bolt ons on top of the swap would be incredible. So like i said before, i know how much the motor costs, but how about the cost of upgrading the internals to make the compression higher like 11:1 and still driveable.
 

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Hey Ya
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supercharge your car....its easy and simple...i had mine and i loved it...
 

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That why you sold it and bought an Evo? lol

There is some guy in Minot here in ND making close to 500whp in a Civic SI with the k20/k24. I don't know much about the swap, but my cousin knows the guy. Its turbo, doubt 500hp is possible N/A But it is really impressive with F/I. Problem with the car, either he spins or he gets traction and snaps an axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
didn't get an answer yet on this but anybody know whats a good compression ratio for N/A build as well as making it reliable/driveable. I know if you go too high, you need like 93 octane to satisfy the engine, but i only put 91 since i can't even get 93 in cali. I hear 12.5:1 is good but isn't that pretty high? I was thinking more liek 10.5:1 or 11:1. Answers?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
one more question. As of now, i'm pretty set on doing this swap but i'm doing it like 1 year later when i have like 5000 saved up to do everything right the first time. However, i still wanna get kpro and CAI before so i can have some fun in the meanwhile. If i get a Injen CAI now, will have a problem when i do the swap later and install the RBC IM? I dont wanna buy the CAI and realize 1 year later when i'm putting int he block that the CAI won't fit.
 

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Billy Ball is in effect
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Definately worth it. Great bang for your buck.

And for swaps...just :wavey: at me
 

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Discussion Starter #15
bump for anybody that knows about the CAI and RBC IM situation and which compression i should be running for 91 octane gas and still reliable/driveable.
 

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integra vtec
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K24 has about 205whp 164tq over the K20A2.the differents is torque.the K20AR has 220whp 205tq due to higher compression.they all worth it.
 

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K24 has about 205whp 164tq over the K20A2.the differents is torque.the K20AR has 220whp 205tq due to higher compression.they all worth it.
partially due to teh fact that the k24a2 head doesn't flow as well as an a2 or type r head. and the k20a type r doesn't make 205lbs tq.

remember this, no replacement for displacement (except boost).
 

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I would stick with 11:1 or 11.5:1. My buddy here in Houston usually doesnt like to build customer cars with anything higher than 11.5:1 being as Texas heat is so brutal. We can run 93 or even E85 these days. If it were me and I was driving the thing everyday, compression would be one of the last things I would worry about. Just get the simple bolt on's. SSR or Rcrew header, intake with a velocity stack and 3" exhaust. I have a k24a2 bottem end with type s head in my rsx. It pulled pretty good until I sent the stock clutch to outerspace. Now its my turn at boosting a kseries. I just bought a bigger front mount and after I get that, its time to get this thing tuned and see what type of numbers it will put down.

To the people saying the a1 is better for boost, dont they have pencil rods? The guy I bought my motor from showed me the rods in a k24, they looked like d-series rods. He told me the tsx had rods about as thick as the type s motors. When I was changing the oil pump I noticed that what he said about the tsx rods was correct. Can anyone tell me anything in a little bit better detail about this?

K24 is an easy swap in the rsx, the only thing you really need is a crv pass. side bracket.
 
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