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You will most lilkely run rich, and stop making power around 7800rpm.....The manifold isn't that much money, just buy one.
 

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You don't need the IM. You'll stop making your peak power after like 8100. All the IM will do is help you make that power all the way to the red. If money is an issue just have it done later on. Good luck :thumbsup:
 

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I think 8100rpm is a little high for peak power on with the stock manifold. Even if it that was where it started to drop, with the type r flash you'll still have another 700rpm to go. The manifold also leans out the air/fuel, which you want on an all motor car. Not to mention, The K20A flash was designed with the type r manifold in mind. That is why I would spend the extra 250 bucks. Even if you are tight on money, 250 isn't that bad.
 

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I have the Type-R cams, and the Mugen ECU.

Currently don't have the ITR manifold installed, need to install it when it warms up. Look at the dyno graph, you can see where the power stops yourself :thumbsup:

 

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Just like I said! Thanks swwifty for supporting me with that dyno:thumbsup:

BTW is that a dip I see?:laughing: Just messing with you, nice numbers.
 

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APEXiTypes said:
Just like I said! Thanks swwifty for supporting me with that dyno:thumbsup:

BTW is that a dip I see?:laughing: Just messing with you, nice numbers.
no problem, just like to help spread the truth :D
 

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swwifty said:
no problem, just like to help spread the truth :D
Too bad not everyone on this board feels that way.:jigglemad
 

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swwifty said:
Do you see at the VTEC point (5300) where the torque rises sharply? That is a means that the VTEC point is too high.

If you have good headers the VTEC point needs to be around 4000 rpm. You'll pick up a lot of mid range if the VTEC point is dropped and that area tuned.

Your Mugen ECU could probably be upgraded to a Hondata programmable ECU.
 

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Interesting......Thank you Hondata. I just learned something:D
 

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Hondata said:
Do you see at the VTEC point (5300) where the torque rises sharply? That is a means that the VTEC point is too high.

If you have good headers the VTEC point needs to be around 4000 rpm. You'll pick up a lot of mid range if the VTEC point is dropped and that area tuned.

Your Mugen ECU could probably be upgraded to a Hondata programmable ECU.
how could I possibly pick up more midrange if my A/F ratio is pretty much perfect? look how flat the A/F ratio is. I don't think I could lean it out anymore.
 

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Hondata said nothing about your air/fuel. If you look at a Hondata rsx dyno, there is no "jump" in tq or hp, not like yours anyway. All he was saying it doesn't look like 5300rpm in the best VTEC point with that tune.

For the most part, your hp and tq curves are very smooth, but would probably become that much smoother with a even lower VTEC.

I hope I got that right. Im sure Hondata will correct me if Im wrong.:nervous:
 

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APEXiTypes said:
Hondata said nothing about your air/fuel. If you look at a Hondata rsx dyno, there is no "jump" in tq or hp, not like yours anyway. All he was saying it doesn't look like 5300rpm in the best VTEC point with that tune.

For the most part, your hp and tq curves are very smooth, but would probably become that much smoother with a even lower VTEC.

I hope I got that right. Im sure Hondata will correct me if Im wrong.:nervous:
what hondata rsx dyno doesn't have a jump in torque like that? I haven't see any customer dynos that dont look similar to mine.

I understand more now about how the vtec engagement isn't based on A/F ratio. I just don't see a point to going with the progammable if my A/F ratio is already pretty much perfect. However, if I lower my vtec I might gain some midrange torque and hp, so it might be worth it. The question comes down to whether I want to spend the money dyno tuning to gain the extra power. Plus, how much hp and torque will I gain is the real question.
 

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I just went and looked at a bunch of Hondata dynos (Sticky on top) and none of them have a jump like yours does. Some are very, very smooth, and some jump alittle.

I didn't link any because the sticky is right there.
 

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With the P-Hondata, can't you program the Vtec point so that if your at say 75% throttle @4000 RPM's Vtec will engage, but if you are lower than that in % throttle, it will engage at a 2nd Vtec point (say.. 5200 RPM's)?

I know that's how Toda's Vtec works in their A-spec cams package, and since Hondata does their flashes I think the P-Hondata would allow that. You could see a much fatter power band looking at the big power difference in your dyno. That's how Toda got more power from the same cams.
 

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Has anyone changed to ITR cams and driven without the flash? I'm thinking about doing it in steps, and wonder if there's any negative effect of changing the cams without flashing the ECU.
 
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