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Glad to read things are coming back together. I actually got a spare auto tensioner from Rock Auto for ~$60 that I keep I'm my trunk if I ever need it.

The k tuned version Im sure would be equivalent to OEM in functionality. I deleted my PS last year using the k tuned ep3 adjustable idler pulley and it allowed me to use the same belt size.
Exactly the set up I hope for. MercRacing bracket, Auto-tensioner, and EP3 Adjustable Idler Pulley. Someone suggested I just buy a stock Auto-tensioner instead of the K-Tuned one but didn't really give me a reason why. Your build is what I'm basing mine off us. Eventually, I'd want to do a race pulley (3.0"), KPro, and I just ordered the Skunk2 Alpha header to pair with my 3" Megapower RR exhaust.

I didn't end up changing out the starter. It was just too much work. I needed to get my car running so that's why I kinda gave up lol. But it's running really well now and it feels great after replacing the radiator and adding a CAI.
I always prefer OEM parts over aftermarket and only go after market if it's truly needed or more cost effective.

I've been running an OEM auto tensioner with 0 issues. I know others have as well and/or after market ones from AutoZone with no issues, so it boils down to preference of the buyer.

I tried to make it work without the idler pulley, but after battling trying to find the right belt size for a few weeks, I gave up and order the k tuned adjustable one and had my car running in 15 mins upon receipt lol.
 

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It's been a few weeks since I've changed the belt. I've noticed under spirited driving, it feels like the belt is slipping. Is that possible? Feels like a loss of power near VTEC under WOT.
 

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It's been a few weeks since I've changed the belt. I've noticed under spirited driving, it feels like the belt is slipping. Is that possible? Feels like a loss of power near VTEC under WOT.
Yes, belt slip is very possible. Best way to confirm is to do a datalog, but your description is belt slip I'm sure.
 

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Yes, belt slip is very possible. Best way to confirm is to do a datalog, but your description is belt slip I'm sure.
What is normally the cause? I am thinking the belt isn't tensioned enough. I also broke one of the bolts (the 12mm one on the scissor bracket) and replaced it with a similar grade one from Autozone.

I also think my pullies aren't planar too lol. Smh.
 

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Yes, belt slip is very possible. Best way to confirm is to do a datalog, but your description is belt slip I'm sure.
What is normally the cause? I am thinking the belt isn't tensioned enough. I also broke one of the bolts (the 12mm one on the scissor bracket) and replaced it with a similar grade one from Autozone.

I also think my pullies aren't planar too lol. Smh.
If you still have the scissor bracket, belt slip is NOTORIOUS. I honestly don't have experience with the scissor bracket, but that was one of the main complaints about it. It's a manual tensioner, so you have to constantly adjust it (i.e., tighten) the tension on the belt to prevent slip.

Also, how much PSI are you running? Here is a quick "general" guide (going off memory, so don't quote me):

K20a2 engine (w/ k20a2 crank pulley)
* 3.4" boost pulley ~ 7psi at 8600rpm
* 3.2" boost pulley ~ 9psi at 8600rpm
* 3.0" boost pulley ~ 11psi at 8600 rpm

Now anything over 7psi could cause belt slip easily, so the solution was what Merc racing auto tensioner bracket to allow us S/C guys to get more out of it and not deal with the manual/scissor tensioner JRSC originally developed.

Hope this helps! I've read folks spin their blowers >18K+ RPMs with supporting mods w/ zero belt slip w/ the auto tensioner bracket and OEM auto tensioner.
 

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Dude. Thanks again. I'm pretty sure my belt is slipping because of the manual tensioner/scissor bracket. Because of that, I'm piecing together a stock auto-tensioner + Merc Racing bracket set up.

I just got a used auto-tensioner (I know, I maybe should have bought a new one). But do folks often upgrade the auto-tensioner pulley? I'm ordering new bolts for it and I might up buy a new stock pulley ($34 vs. $140 or so for the whole tensioner).

And I have the Street Version of the kit, so I believe the pulley size is 3.4". My goal is 280whp-300whp. Would 3.2" suffice?
 

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Dude. Thanks again. I'm pretty sure my belt is slipping because of the manual tensioner/scissor bracket. Because of that, I'm piecing together a stock auto-tensioner + Merc Racing bracket set up.

I just got a used auto-tensioner (I know, I maybe should have bought a new one). But do folks often upgrade the auto-tensioner pulley? I'm ordering new bolts for it and I might up buy a new stock pulley ($34 vs. $140 or so for the whole tensioner).

And I have the Street Version of the kit, so I believe the pulley size is 3.4". My goal is 280whp-300whp. Would 3.2" suffice?
I'm sure it will be fine, but then again you are the best to say if you need to replace the pulley or not.

Regarding HP, it varies for each setup and the actual Dyno being used. If your running 3.4" BP, you are probably around 240-250whp max without knowing your setup. I think jrsc originally stated gain of up to 50 hp with their street kit.

Why 240-250? When I was K20a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP making 9-10psi, it was actually 263whp/183 wtq on a dynajet (circa 2013).

My K24a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP at 5 psi made 268 (circa 2016). I switched to 3" BP and K24a2 cp and made 283whp (circa 2017). Added w/m and retune and I'm ~304 whp/237wtq at 8.5 psi now.

Biggest recommendation is don't chase numbers... Get your setup reliable (i.e., no more belt slip), keep intake temps in check (more blower speed causes temp spikes that robs performance), and enjoy it. I can squeeze more power out and probably hit 320-330, but that would involve more $ (e.g., invest in aftercooler, dual w/m, fuel system upgrade, e85) that I'm not willing to spend lol.

Overall, you sound exactly where I was back in 2013. I wanted 280whp and was disappointed I didn't make it. Car was still fun, but unfortunately, I spun a rod bearing. I almost gave up, but decided to rebuild with some misfortunes and a lot of trial and error. To prevent going through what I did, you have to understand what you want out of the build and be ready to do the work. I've paid for services that was not completed to my liking, so I had to learn how to redo it on my own.
 

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I'm sure it will be fine, but then again you are the best to say if you need to replace the pulley or not.

Regarding HP, it varies for each setup and the actual Dyno being used. If your running 3.4" BP, you are probably around 240-250whp max without knowing your setup. I think jrsc originally stated gain of up to 50 hp with their street kit.

Why 240-250? When I was K20a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP making 9-10psi, it was actually 263whp/183 wtq on a dynajet (circa 2013).

My K24a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP at 5 psi made 268 (circa 2016). I switched to 3" BP and K24a2 cp and made 283whp (circa 2017). Added w/m and retune and I'm ~304 whp/237wtq at 8.5 psi now.

Biggest recommendation is don't chase numbers... Get your setup reliable (i.e., no more belt slip), keep intake temps in check (more blower speed causes temp spikes that robs performance), and enjoy it. I can squeeze more power out and probably hit 320-330, but that would involve more $ (e.g., invest in aftercooler, dual w/m, fuel system upgrade, e85) that I'm not willing to spend lol.

Overall, you sound exactly where I was back in 2013. I wanted 280whp and was disappointed I didn't make it. Car was still fun, but unfortunately, I spun a rod bearing. I almost gave up, but decided to rebuild with some misfortunes and a lot of trial and error. To prevent going through what I did, you have to understand what you want out of the build and be ready to do the work. I've paid for services that was not completed to my liking, so I had to learn how to redo it on my own.
I think my pulley is larger. It's the Street Version of the kit, I'm mistaken. I think you're right. I think it would be cool to have 300whp but I think it's way more important I make the power reliable. I'm still piecing together this setup.

You have some solid numbers. I know I said it from another post, but I'm pretty much basing my mods off your build! Since there isn't much else to go off of. What contributed to the big rise on torque?

I have the chance to pick up KPro used locally for $450. I'm unfamiliar with the tuning world in this manner. I would probably bring it to a shop of course. I was hoping to pick up the MercRacing bracket soon but this KPro deal came by me randomly and I can't let this go.
 

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Always on TDY...
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I'm sure it will be fine, but then again you are the best to say if you need to replace the pulley or not.

Regarding HP, it varies for each setup and the actual Dyno being used. If your running 3.4" BP, you are probably around 240-250whp max without knowing your setup. I think jrsc originally stated gain of up to 50 hp with their street kit.

Why 240-250? When I was K20a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP making 9-10psi, it was actually 263whp/183 wtq on a dynajet (circa 2013).

My K24a2 + K20a2 cp + 3.2" BP at 5 psi made 268 (circa 2016). I switched to 3" BP and K24a2 cp and made 283whp (circa 2017). Added w/m and retune and I'm ~304 whp/237wtq at 8.5 psi now.

Biggest recommendation is don't chase numbers... Get your setup reliable (i.e., no more belt slip), keep intake temps in check (more blower speed causes temp spikes that robs performance), and enjoy it. I can squeeze more power out and probably hit 320-330, but that would involve more $ (e.g., invest in aftercooler, dual w/m, fuel system upgrade, e85) that I'm not willing to spend lol.

Overall, you sound exactly where I was back in 2013. I wanted 280whp and was disappointed I didn't make it. Car was still fun, but unfortunately, I spun a rod bearing. I almost gave up, but decided to rebuild with some misfortunes and a lot of trial and error. To prevent going through what I did, you have to understand what you want out of the build and be ready to do the work. I've paid for services that was not completed to my liking, so I had to learn how to redo it on my own.
I think my pulley is larger. It's the Street Version of the kit, I'm mistaken. I think you're right. I think it would be cool to have 300whp but I think it's way more important I make the power reliable. I'm still piecing together this setup.

You have some solid numbers. I know I said it from another post, but I'm pretty much basing my mods off your build! Since there isn't much else to go off of. What contributed to the big rise on torque?

I have the chance to pick up KPro used locally for $450. I'm unfamiliar with the tuning world in this manner. I would probably bring it to a shop of course. I was hoping to pick up the MercRacing bracket soon but this KPro deal came by me randomly and I can't let this go.
Sounds good! My torque spike is based on swapping to a 2006 TSX motor (K24a2). The torque was a natural increase directly from Honda.

If you truly have a 3.4" BP pulley, I'd recommend sourcing a 3.2" BP and pair with the K20A2 crank pulley if you don't plan on getting an aftercooler. This should put you around 9psi at 8600 rpm. If you do get an aftercooler, then you have room to run a smaller BP and larger crank pulley...

Rule of thumb, anything over 9psi, it is highly recommended to have an aftercooler or water/methanol injection.
 

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Sounds good! My torque spike is based on swapping to a 2006 TSX motor (K24a2). The torque was a natural increase directly from Honda.

If you truly have a 3.4" BP pulley, I'd recommend sourcing a 3.2" BP and pair with the K20A2 crank pulley if you don't plan on getting an aftercooler. This should put you around 9psi at 8600 rpm. If you do get an aftercooler, then you have room to run a smaller BP and larger crank pulley...

Rule of thumb, anything over 9psi, it is highly recommended to have an aftercooler or water/methanol injection.
I JUST realized you had an entire engine swap. Makes total sense now lol. That must be fun!

I think I will stick to 9psi. I don't want to go overboard tbh. I just want it to run efficiently. Thanks for the tips.... and I think the pulley is actually 4". I couldn't remember if the street version had 4" or 3.4", but I think the race version had 3.4". Either way, will definitely upgrade that pulley.

What do you think is a logical step in building this? Right now, I'm sitting with the JRSC, stock injectors, no tune (street version uses an ECU piggyback), and Injen CAI. I have a full 3" Skunk2 exhaust, header to catback, sitting in the box. Piecing together a stock tensioner and JMerc Bracket soon. I'll probably be picking up KPro tonight. I was thinking to get the JMerc Bracket asap and put it on, deleting PS as well, and then get KPro installed and tuned. After, the exhaust can be added? Or should tuning come last? Not too sure at all.
 

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Sounds good! My torque spike is based on swapping to a 2006 TSX motor (K24a2). The torque was a natural increase directly from Honda.

If you truly have a 3.4" BP pulley, I'd recommend sourcing a 3.2" BP and pair with the K20A2 crank pulley if you don't plan on getting an aftercooler. This should put you around 9psi at 8600 rpm. If you do get an aftercooler, then you have room to run a smaller BP and larger crank pulley...

Rule of thumb, anything over 9psi, it is highly recommended to have an aftercooler or water/methanol injection.
I JUST realized you had an entire engine swap. Makes total sense now lol. That must be fun!

I think I will stick to 9psi. I don't want to go overboard tbh. I just want it to run efficiently. Thanks for the tips.... and I think the pulley is actually 4". I couldn't remember if the street version had 4" or 3.4", but I think the race version had 3.4". Either way, will definitely upgrade that pulley.

What do you think is a logical step in building this? Right now, I'm sitting with the JRSC, stock injectors, no tune (street version uses an ECU piggyback), and Injen CAI. I have a full 3" Skunk2 exhaust, header to catback, sitting in the box. Piecing together a stock tensioner and JMerc Bracket soon. I'll probably be picking up KPro tonight. I was thinking to get the JMerc Bracket asap and put it on, deleting PS as well, and then get KPro installed and tuned. After, the exhaust can be added? Or should tuning come last? Not too sure at all.
Tuning last with all mods installed is my recommendation. The route I'd recommend is:

1) get jmercado Auto tensioner bracket + OEM Auto tensioner to replace manual tensioner system
2) get 3.2" boost pulley
3) get kpro
4) get larger injectors (at least 750cc as stock will max out. I went with FIC 775cc with no complaints in maxing out duty cycle)
5) install exhaust. I'd recommend getting a Race header as well (I went with OBX)
6) if PS delete is a must, jmercado has the tensioner system, but I went a different route due to cost. I deleted hydro P/S using Ktuned EP3 adjustable idler pulley.
7) once all complete... Then Dyno or e tune. I personally prefer etune as I was part of the process and learned a lot.
 

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Tuning last with all mods installed is my recommendation. The route I'd recommend is:

1) get jmercado Auto tensioner bracket + OEM Auto tensioner to replace manual tensioner system
2) get 3.2" boost pulley
3) get kpro
4) get larger injectors (at least 750cc as stock will max out. I went with FIC 775cc with no complaints in maxing out duty cycle)
5) install exhaust. I'd recommend getting a Race header as well (I went with OBX)
6) if PS delete is a must, jmercado has the tensioner system, but I went a different route due to cost. I deleted hydro P/S using Ktuned EP3 adjustable idler pulley.
7) once all complete... Then Dyno or e tune. I personally prefer etune as I was part of the process and learned a lot.
x2
 

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Hey all. I took apart my IACV and throttle body for cleaning. I didn't realize there was a spacer for the IACV. basically ripped apart that gasket between the spacer and IACV. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement gasket? Or if it's possible to make one? It isn't the one between the throttle body and spacer (16456-PND-A01) but the flat one.
 

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Hey all. I took apart my IACV and throttle body for cleaning. I didn't realize there was a spacer for the IACV. basically ripped apart that gasket between the spacer and IACV. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement gasket? Or if it's possible to make one? It isn't the one between the throttle body and spacer (16456-PND-A01) but the flat one.
You can try emailing moss motors to see if they can help you out. Check out supercharger dot com and send an email regarding the paper IACV gasket for the Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. Good luck.
 

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You can try emailing moss motors to see if they can help you out. Check out supercharger dot com and send an email regarding the paper IACV gasket for the Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. Good luck.
Did that! New gasket was $15 or so. Great stuff.

I'm pretty close to finishing my parts hoarding with the suggestions you posted earlier in this thread. Gonna nab the Merc Racing bracket this week or next and probably the injectors the next time eBay has a 20% off coupon!!
 

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You can try emailing moss motors to see if they can help you out. Check out supercharger dot com and send an email regarding the paper IACV gasket for the Jackson Racing Supercharger kit. Good luck.
Did that! New gasket was $15 or so. Great stuff.

I'm pretty close to finishing my parts hoarding with the suggestions you posted earlier in this thread. Gonna nab the Merc Racing bracket this week or next and probably the injectors the next time eBay has a 20% off coupon!!
Awesome! Glad to see they were able to help you out. Keep us posted on your build.
 

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Greetings all. Been a while. Life’s kinda been busy for me and so the RSX has become a somewhat ignored project.

I was wondering if anyone’s ever seen this belt set up before? I was under the impression you needed the MercRacing bracket if you wanted to use the stock auto-tensioner. I also deleted PS and so I thought you needed an EP3 idler pulley.

This set up doesn’t have PS, doesn’t use the MercRacing bracket, and doesn’t have an EP3 idler pulley. Anyone run it like this? Anyone know if this setup is reliable or any good? I have just never seen this before.

 

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Greetings all. Been a while. Life’s kinda been busy for me and so the RSX has become a somewhat ignored project.

I was wondering if anyone’s ever seen this belt set up before? I was under the impression you needed the MercRacing bracket if you wanted to use the stock auto-tensioner. I also deleted PS and so I thought you needed an EP3 idler pulley.

This set up doesn’t have PS, doesn’t use the MercRacing bracket, and doesn’t have an EP3 idler pulley. Anyone run it like this? Anyone know if this setup is reliable or any good? I have just never seen this before.

It works, but 2 issues... 1) a lot of tension on the super charger pulley (can lead to a snap shaft) and 2) finding the right belt size is a PITA.

I attempted this setup when I deleted my PS and couldn't find the right belt size. After 10+ failed attempts, I got the Ktuned EP3 idler pulley and was able to reuse my original belt size. Been running it now for over a year with 0 issues. Best investment to save on belt tension headaches and it's adjustable.
 

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It works, but 2 issues... 1) a lot of tension on the super charger pulley (can lead to a snap shaft) and 2) finding the right belt size is a PITA.

I attempted this setup when I deleted my PS and couldn't find the right belt size. After 10+ failed attempts, I got the Ktuned EP3 idler pulley and was able to reuse my original belt size. Been running it now for over a year with 0 issues. Best investment to save on belt tension headaches and it's adjustable.


Thanks for the reply. That actually makes complete sense now. The adjustable EP3 idler pulley would allow folks to be able to find a proper belt without too much guessing.
 
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