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If i got the cams and intake it would pretty much be a type R? Im thinkin about running N/A. How much h.p would the cams get me if i put them in a type s??
 

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To be a type-r, you would the intake manifold, and I am pretty sure the pistons also. Along with the ecu flash.
 

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You should get the hondata optimized k20a flash. Your car will not run well on stock settings with different cams.
 

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DragRacerRSX said:
If i got the cams and intake it would pretty much be a type R? Im thinkin about running N/A. How much h.p would the cams get me if i put them in a type s??
There are quite a few differences between the Type R and Type S...

Type S-11.0:1 compression ratio
Type R-11.5:1 compression ratio

Type R has 3mm wider runners in the intake manifold where they bottleneck in the Type S.

The Type R is equipped with a LSD while the Type S has an open differential

The Type R has a differential final drive gear ratio

There is of course the difference in the cams. From what has been seen, the difference is in the duration only though, not the lift.

The Type R comes with a 4-2 and 2-1 exhaust manifold that flows more freely than that of the Type S which has a 4-1 shorty into a single catalytic converter equipped downpipe.

thats all I want to type now, but you get the point. It takes a lot more than a couple of parts to equate a Type R, but that is not saying that the Type S can not be better than the Type R.
 

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After reading your post, BigDawg, I should use the TypeS Hondata #4 flash if all I upgrade, internally, is the camshafts. Would I be getting anything from the Cams with the #4 flash or should I try to get more internal upgrades before the ITR flash?
 

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Hunter_TypeS said:
After reading your post, BigDawg, I should use the TypeS Hondata #4 flash if all I upgrade, internally, is the camshafts. Would I be getting anything from the Cams with the #4 flash or should I try to get more internal upgrades before the ITR flash?
Not really the case. If you upgrade the cams, you will make more efficient power if you go ahead and do the intake manifold at the same time. With these two upgrades, you will be better off running the K20A reflash. The #4 is actually setup for the Type S engine with a CAI. Go to www.hondata.com and read the page regarding the K20A flash. Also, do a search here and you will find A LOT of info about this.

If you look around, there is a sticky that gives dynoruns by various members that have just about every setup you could possibly muster up on a streetable car.
 

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Some more research resulted in a K20A reflash combined with the ITR Cams is what seems to be the direction I want to go. I've already ordered the S2000 valve springs as a precautionary measure during the 8800 rpm redline that I will eventualy hit. This is going to be fun. :driving:
 

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BigDawg said:
There are quite a few differences between the Type R and Type S...

Type S-11.0:1 compression ratio
Type R-11.5:1 compression ratio

Type R has 3mm wider runners in the intake manifold where they bottleneck in the Type S.

The Type R is equipped with a LSD while the Type S has an open differential

The Type R has a differential final drive gear ratio

There is of course the difference in the cams. From what has been seen, the difference is in the duration only though, not the lift.

The Type R comes with a 4-2 and 2-1 exhaust manifold that flows more freely than that of the Type S which has a 4-1 shorty into a single catalytic converter equipped downpipe.

thats all I want to type now, but you get the point. It takes a lot more than a couple of parts to equate a Type R, but that is not saying that the Type S can not be better than the Type R.
good post :thumbsup:
 

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swwifty said:
good post :thumbsup:
Thanks. I see a couple of things I typed retarded, but it's all good. I got the point across.


Hunter_TypeS said:
Now, we are getting contradictory info. I'll check the Dyno posts and come back tomorrow
What part is contradictory? The K20A reflash is the right choice for ITR cams and intake manifold. The #4 is for the Type S. The only reason I posted the other differences is because it takes a lot more to make an A2 the same as an A. That is not saying that an ECU program setup for the A will not work on the A2 equipped with A parts. The .5 point of compression won't matter that much.
 

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Hunter_TypeS said:
My sense of contradiction was mistaken. It was quickly cleared up by a visit to the Hondata website.
Well, I hope I helped you out.
 

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MugenR said:
given u a choice.Would you convert a k20A2 to a type R or straight to toda kit ,maybe wait for skunk2 products? :driving:
If you can afford it, go with the Toda kit. It is $2350, and you have to consider that there will still be $400-$500 in install. To get more power you will also want to put on the ITR intake manifold which is an additional ~$280 plus however much for install (I did it myself).

I started with the Type R cams, intake manifold, K20A flash, and Toda valvesprings. I plan on upgrading to the N2 cams and K-Pro, but since I have already spent the intial loot to run my current setup I will only have to spend $1600.

www.jdmhondaparts.com is running a special on ITR cams right now.
 

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having a type r motor and having a type r car are two different things. if u want the type r motor, just get the type r motor instead of spending all that money on mods for your type s motor. you might even find a type r motor for less than it is to get the hondata, cams, pistons, intake manifold, etc...
 

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BigDawg said:
If you can afford it, go with the Toda kit. It is $2350, and you have to consider that there will still be $400-$500 in install. To get more power you will also want to put on the ITR intake manifold which is an additional ~$280 plus however much for install (I did it myself).

I started with the Type R cams, intake manifold, K20A flash, and Toda valvesprings. I plan on upgrading to the N2 cams and K-Pro, but since I have already spent the intial loot to run my current setup I will only have to spend $1600.

www.jdmhondaparts.com is running a special on ITR cams right now.
im driving a jdm itr and im still not satisfied with toda A cams........getting the k pro sounds good but there is alot of factors that i have to think about.
1)we run on 98 octane fuel
2)i do not know how to tune,im a vet not a computer wiz kid
3)Hard to get tuner here and no dyno machine
4)its cheaper to get a mugen n1 ecu than a hondata k pro
5)Mugen n1 ecu is not that great either,tried and tested and no air con
 
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