There are quite a few differences between the Type R and Type S...DragRacerRSX said:If i got the cams and intake it would pretty much be a type R? Im thinkin about running N/A. How much h.p would the cams get me if i put them in a type s??
Not really the case. If you upgrade the cams, you will make more efficient power if you go ahead and do the intake manifold at the same time. With these two upgrades, you will be better off running the K20A reflash. The #4 is actually setup for the Type S engine with a CAI. Go to www.hondata.com and read the page regarding the K20A flash. Also, do a search here and you will find A LOT of info about this.Hunter_TypeS said:After reading your post, BigDawg, I should use the TypeS Hondata #4 flash if all I upgrade, internally, is the camshafts. Would I be getting anything from the Cams with the #4 flash or should I try to get more internal upgrades before the ITR flash?
good post :thumbsup:BigDawg said:There are quite a few differences between the Type R and Type S...
Type S-11.0:1 compression ratio
Type R-11.5:1 compression ratio
Type R has 3mm wider runners in the intake manifold where they bottleneck in the Type S.
The Type R is equipped with a LSD while the Type S has an open differential
The Type R has a differential final drive gear ratio
There is of course the difference in the cams. From what has been seen, the difference is in the duration only though, not the lift.
The Type R comes with a 4-2 and 2-1 exhaust manifold that flows more freely than that of the Type S which has a 4-1 shorty into a single catalytic converter equipped downpipe.
thats all I want to type now, but you get the point. It takes a lot more than a couple of parts to equate a Type R, but that is not saying that the Type S can not be better than the Type R.
Thanks. I see a couple of things I typed retarded, but it's all good. I got the point across.swwifty said:good post :thumbsup:
What part is contradictory? The K20A reflash is the right choice for ITR cams and intake manifold. The #4 is for the Type S. The only reason I posted the other differences is because it takes a lot more to make an A2 the same as an A. That is not saying that an ECU program setup for the A will not work on the A2 equipped with A parts. The .5 point of compression won't matter that much.Hunter_TypeS said:Now, we are getting contradictory info. I'll check the Dyno posts and come back tomorrow
If you can afford it, go with the Toda kit. It is $2350, and you have to consider that there will still be $400-$500 in install. To get more power you will also want to put on the ITR intake manifold which is an additional ~$280 plus however much for install (I did it myself).MugenR said:given u a choice.Would you convert a k20A2 to a type R or straight to toda kit ,maybe wait for skunk2 products? :driving:
im driving a jdm itr and im still not satisfied with toda A cams........getting the k pro sounds good but there is alot of factors that i have to think about.BigDawg said:If you can afford it, go with the Toda kit. It is $2350, and you have to consider that there will still be $400-$500 in install. To get more power you will also want to put on the ITR intake manifold which is an additional ~$280 plus however much for install (I did it myself).
I started with the Type R cams, intake manifold, K20A flash, and Toda valvesprings. I plan on upgrading to the N2 cams and K-Pro, but since I have already spent the intial loot to run my current setup I will only have to spend $1600.
www.jdmhondaparts.com is running a special on ITR cams right now.