JRSC belts & pulleys: please discuss it here

49632 Views 819 Replies 63 Participants Last post by iamsyko, Feb 27, 2017

tt061880

Discussion Starter · May 29, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

I know a lot of us JRSC guys having or had problems with our belts and pulleys and a lot of time we hijacking other threads because of it, so I thought it was a good idea to start up on a thread just about jrsc belts and pulleys. The thread is not only for current jrsc peeps but also for the newbies as well so they won't get us frustrated asking the same question over and over again.

I'll start off with one question, I read around and found a member who is using a goodyear 070775 belt which is 7 rib and 77.5 inches long. I tried a dayco belt that was 77.5 long and it wasn't even anywhere close to fitting onto the 3.4 pulley. The dayco 78.9 belt fit extremely well for the purpose. What I want to know is that anyone else tried the goodyear 77.5 long on a 3.4 pulley or is it because different makers make belt a little bit different in length.

TT

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BlackNite

· #750 · Dec 1, 2004

OK; just read all 31 pages from start to finish... so I have a good idea of what to look for and what to expect. I have one question though:

Can anyone tell me exactly what bolts I need to loosen and what bolt I need to turn to tighten to tighten my belt? I heard that there are two bolts to loosen before tightning the belt. is this true? If someone could post up a pic of the top of the engine bay with circles around what bolts I need to turn and which way I would appreciate it. I read the entire install guide for the charger, but I want to be 100% sure I am turning the right bolts. Also, is there a DIY I can read on how to change out the belt? I am gana replace my current belt with the Goodyear Poly-V belt once it arrives.

Sorry for the newb post, but I have done tons of reading over the past two weeks and I want to me sure that I know what I am doing (pics would be nice) before I dive in and get my hands dirty. My belt is slipping at about 6KRPM now

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BlackNite

· #752 · Dec 2, 2004

mattlock said:
Here is a pic with the 2 bolts circled in white, the adjustment bolt is circled in red. when replacing the belt, I found it easier to see the crank pulley by removing the splash guard from under the car, but I don't think it is necesary. Also, if you're replacing the belt, you will need to totally remove the bracket assembly.
matt

Thanks dude; that's exactly what I was looking for! I adjusted the belt and no longer have it slipping or making that aweful noise (u know, that 1988 cadilac that is about to break down, but wants to make its presence known by screaching as loud as it can when you press on the gas) when I get above 6KRPMS.

By bracket assembly, you mean take out the two bolts circled in white completely and the things that they hold? is there a DIY guide for belt replacement, or am I gana have to reverse the instructions that JR have for installing the charger. I'm a little bit smarter than what I am posting, but I need to make sure I have all the noob information possible so I won't have to have another thread asking for help because I can't put my car back together. :laughing:

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BlackNite

· #756 · Feb 22, 2005

Just went from 7psi to 9psi pulley. Used a new belt only because the old one had a few tears in it and I wanted to play it safe. Still waiting on getting my ECU back to drive the car. I can't wait :driving:

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BlackNite

· #758 · Feb 22, 2005

i VieTEC said:
you got kpro?

I paid for it

. I shipped off my ECU to Hondata Monday, so I should have it back thursday at the latest. Hope I can notice 7psi vs 9psi.

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BlackNite

· #761 · Feb 25, 2005

alphaSSmale said:
http://www.pulleyboys.com/

I am running their 7psi pully and love it. Very high quality and good price, better then JR.

JR will insist that you have to pull the charger out of the car to replace the pulley but don't worry, that isnt true. Just take out the rubber piece on the back of the bulbs and you can slip the old pulley off and put on the new.

Yea, I got mine (9PSI) and it's great. It is black to match the other Power Steering pulley and not silver. I changed the pulley and belt without taking anything appart minus 1/2 of the tensioner assembly. $91 shipped!

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BlackNite

· #763 · Mar 4, 2005

imyy4u said:
all -

i would just like to say that the method suggested in this thread for how to tighten the belt works great. ill review it now for those unfamiliar with it:

1) turn on car, turn on A/C on max, turn on all electronics, etc.
2) turn the steering wheel all the way to one side
3) if you hear a squeak or squeal from the belt in step 2, turn off the car and give the bolt on tensioner one full turn. go back to step 1 and repeat until there is no squeal.

if you think your belt is too tight, loosen it one turn at a time until your belt squeals doing the above procedure. then tighten it one more turn just enough for the belt not to squeal.

this method puts perfect tension on the belt, and makes it the least likely you will throw or shred your belt.

:-D

Thanks for that post; that was posted before by tt061880 and it helped me learn exactly how to determine if it was slipping (before K-pro).

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BlackNite

· #771 · May 5, 2005

Bubz said:
Sonny are you on K20A? or K20A2?

If K20A How'd you lower your compression? I wanna lower mine 2 11:0 instead of 11:5 Im at..Cause I wanna push 9PSI.

and How do you tighen the belt? with out taking out the AC Pulley LOL

K20A2.. but with F/I cams and springs now.. so the head is gana be differnt from ours now

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