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My belt is still going, clutch is gone, but anyway. My belt is still good, but one rib closest to the snout is gone. I never noticed it until Doug pointed it out last week. I am researching as to which belt to get to replace it. Dayco and Goodyear are built about the same. The length issue is what seems to perplex everyone. Let me see what I can find out.
 

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Easy there killer. If I have to squelch this belt issue then I will. I may not have a "race" ready clutch, but I can still drive around. Let me and my original belt for the JRSC. 3.4 inch S/C pulley and a K24 crank pulley see what is up. I won't be able to run max boost but I can at least give some insight to the belt issues alot of you have been having. Give me a couple of days.

K20A2 said:
I will find it, if I have to break 10 belts in a day, that is what I will do to make more boost a reality for everyone!

haha, just had to do that. It is my I am running for head of the boost forum speech.
 

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Well. I have had the "street" kit since October 2003, Race upgrade since same time. I have had zero problems and zero belt issues. I don't know what could be the issue. If you want, I will contact JR tomorrow and express my concern over the development of their products. My unit has been operating flawlessly so I have zero complaints against them. All I could do is offer my comtempt to them to offer the best customer service they can. I don't want to sound like a zealot, but I believe my opinions offer more than JR advertsizing (sp!). Peace.

Sonny H.
 

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Yeah. I knew the install was done right. But if the alternator moved, then why is it that I am not having problems. Your car is 2004? My is 2003. I don't see how it could be different. I am going to buy the K24 crank pulley and go steal a laptop to tune my car for 9psi or higher. Tired of 288WHP. Must have more power!!!
 

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RC 750cc injectors and K24 crank pulley. Install both of those, hook up the laptop, retune, datalog, tweak and hit the dyno. Not too worried at the moment. Got big plans come October time frame. Looking at a port/polish of the head, 3inch blower pulley, sleeved block, forged pistons/rod, upgraded valve springs/retainers, bored out TB and to top it all off 75 shot of nitrous.
 

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Once you get the HorsePower Bug. No amount of power is going to satisfy you. I have it. Besides Hondata and the UK guy, I want to think that I have one of the more powerful JRSC'ed RSX in the community. Unless of course someone who doesn't post has one and kept it secret. I want to believe stateside that the list goes: Hondata, myself, JR, Steve Lloyd, Norman Sipp, (in no order; alpha, ttboy and lanman) follow up. Everyone is within specs of what JR put out. Some higher, some lower. The JRSC is starting to compete, give it more time.

jsfwds2k said:
I am gonna run the 550's and see if they work before I go buy new ones. I think I will be done once I hit 9 PSI. After that if I am still not satisfied I will run nitrous. Hopefully that will do it for me.

Jamie
 

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Damn man, I forgot about you in my last post. To your question. Sleeving the block will be about $1200 with decking. Port/polish about $400, forged rods/pistons $800 or so, nitrous kit $500, TB about $400 or so. All in all, depending who I talk to and such, I am looking to spend about $3000 or so in October. Won't have my car for a few weeks because I have a shop that is looking to expand it's business into the K-Series engines instead of just Subaru engines. So with that said, the whole job may/may not cost more or less than what I have set. I told them I had a budget for all above for $2500. They said they would get back with me. We will see. I forsee over 350WHP with that setup on the stock fuel system (fuel rail, lines, in-tank pump). Of course the injectors are going to be upgraded, that is obvious.

shaggy said:
lead the way sonny....

just make sure you get plenty of pics and vids....

just curious though, how much do you think a set-up like that will cost?
 

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Contacted Keith today and had a lengthy chat. He is very impressed and amazed that I am still using the same belt that shipped with the original kit. I explained that the only thing I have done is upgrade the pulley. Out of goodwill, he is shipping me a new tensioner assembly, pullies, and a new belt. He wished me good luck on my next boost upgrade. Did I say that out loud. Oh well. 11psi, 750cc injectors and 50 shot of the good stuff coming up in about 10 days. October 7th is my day. Already got my dealings in line. October is going to be a good month for me. I will tell you guys what the car makes after that.
 

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Basic N2O kit. Bottle, brackets, hose, relay, solenoid, one arming switch. Not sure about the purge kit. I want to see if I can get the intercooler sprayer and have it molded around the JRSC housing. But that will be another day. Will need two bottles for that. One for inside and one for outside. I may even go CO2 for the sprayer. Not sure. I think the kit is going to run me around $500 or so. Injectors $400. Pulley upgrades about $300 and install time for all about $300. I am looking to put out about $1500 on the 7th for all of this. I already have a guy I am giving the 3.4inch pulleytoo. Sorry and he is going to buy the 440's from me also. He has a Civic Si with the JRSC. Met him at Qualcomm and I worked it with him.

alphaSSmale said:
Hey sonny, let us know the specs on your N20 kit. I am looking to do a 50 shot once I get KPro'ed
 

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Only problem I would be concerned with is, Is the water pump getting enough belt surface to turn. No water circulation equates to overheating.


tt061880 said:
well I just reroute the belt to give the crank pulley more belt surface. I also bypass the p/s pump as well. With this method, the belt issue is GONE for good and you don't need the belt to be that tight either. The belt I'm using is 70.5 long, now if you route the belt the regular way,that is running the water pump between the alternator and the a/c, you just need to go about 1.5 inch shorter I think. About the power steering, I know the EP3 civic has an electric p/s pump, I'm going to buy that and try to modify it to fit in our car. Take a look at this diagram and give me some inputs folks, thanks.
 

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Well, what did you think was going to happen. Power Steering, Power Assist, Electric Power Steering. It all means easier steering. You take away the hydraulic nature of that effort and you exert that nature. The power steering fluid plays zero role now that you isolated the pump. Your new pump is your arms and the force exerted on the steering wheel. I used to drive a 79 Cabellero without power steering or power assist and it was a dream in a straight line. But on turns it was work.
 

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The shop that did all that used some RTV.
PERMATEX® Sensor Safe Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
The original Blue. Will not foul oxygen sensors. Replaces almost any cut gasket. Makes reliable "formed-in-place" gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker. Also available in AUTOMATIC TUBE® dispenser.

Suggested Applications:
Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans.

It can be used for almost anything.
 

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Go nine psi and make sure the belt is tight. Looks like your picture they are a little loose. You get buildup on the belt if it loose. My belts are smooth and clean (well not literally) but you get what I mean.
 

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The Lotus Elises are supercharged with k20a's. They are running fine. The Ariel atom is using the Civic Si and JRSC at 11.5:1. They are fine. Keep the compression and go 9psi on the blower. Use your own judgement as to what you want to you do. I was told that 11psi on the JRSC couldn't be done, I did it. I was told that dry nitrous and [email protected] shouldn't be done, I am doing it. Everytime someone tells me that I cannot do something, I go out of my way to prove that it can done. I do not like the word CANNOT. Again, I will put this out. Every car is different. My car maybe a factory freak and is above the law in some aspects. Your car may not be the freak. With anything you do to your car, if something goes wrong, accept the responsibility of what you did. If you put the K24 crank pulley on and 3.2inch blower pulley and a you sling a rod at 9000RPM. Accept the fact that you pushed the car beyond it's limits.
 

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One more thing. If you think about it for a second. The car is not making boost constantly. In all fairness, I only hit boost about 4 times a day and that is only for about 4000RPM. Getting on the freeway in third gear to redline. That is is for the most part. I have my rare freeway roll with a burnt out Civic, but that is the extent of it. The car does not make boost all the time, so the pressure is not constant.
 
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