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I know a lot of us JRSC guys having or had problems with our belts and pulleys and a lot of time we hijacking other threads because of it, so I thought it was a good idea to start up on a thread just about jrsc belts and pulleys. The thread is not only for current jrsc peeps but also for the newbies as well so they won't get us frustrated asking the same question over and over again.

I'll start off with one question, I read around and found a member who is using a goodyear 070775 belt which is 7 rib and 77.5 inches long. I tried a dayco belt that was 77.5 long and it wasn't even anywhere close to fitting onto the 3.4 pulley. The dayco 78.9 belt fit extremely well for the purpose. What I want to know is that anyone else tried the goodyear 77.5 long on a 3.4 pulley or is it because different makers make belt a little bit different in length.

TT
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Norman Sipp said:
Nope...I'm still on the original belt and I've had my charger longer than sonny. I've also upgraded from street to race and from race @ 5# to race @ 7# and still have no belt problems

I think the sc kit back in the days was better made than now. As far as I know, everyone who got the kit since march had threw a belt. Very nice going there norman sipp, u are the JRSC OG lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
wdsonny said:
My belt is still going, clutch is gone, but anyway. My belt is still good, but one rib closest to the snout is gone. I never noticed it until Doug pointed it out last week. I am researching as to which belt to get to replace it. Dayco and Goodyear are built about the same. The length issue is what seems to perplex everyone. Let me see what I can find out.

that's what I thought about the dayco and the goodyear, they both look the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
RickSXType-S said:
i've still got my original belt, been on since early april, running the 7lb pulley.

no problems at all, and i don't have any black dust in the engine bay that many others (including sonny) were complaining about.

you are a very lucky man :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I installed it myself and when I my belt shredded, it was on the 4'0 pulley. I then haven't found a 7 rib to use with so i've been on the 6 rib with the 3'4. I'm going to try to get a 7 rib and run it with the 3'4 and see what going to happen. To be honest, at the time when the first belt shredded on me, I just had the kit on for a few days(I was new at this sc thing) and the belt was loose and I was bouncing off the rev limiter. I also didn't have the mm inserts at the time either so I don't know if the mm inserts could have prevented this. After that I went to the track and snap a 6 rib (gates belt) in half and I purchased a dayco 6 rib and when I had it on it was loose so it jumped one rib over toward the driver side of the sc pulley.

My conclusion is that maybe at the time I shredded my first belt, I was new at this whole thing and loose belt definely going to jump on you. I'm now using the same dayco belt that jumped on me. I've been to the track two times with it and so far so good still.

PS: someone find a direct source for a 7rib that works on our car pleaseeeeeeeeeee I'm very desperate as you seen on my dyno, the 6 rib will start slipping at about 7500rpm. None of the autopart stores around here carry anything close to the 78.6 that we needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
okie, I'm going to make this as simple as possible. Even for those that installed the kit ourselves, what really caused anything to be misaligned? The only thing I can think of is the tensioner pulley, idle pulley, sc pulley, p/s pulley. I'm not saying that I did a perfect job on the installation but the kit came with the sc pulley screwed on the sc. I replaced the p/s pulley and tighten it up 3 times to make sure it sit on there right. The only parts left is the scissor for the ilde & tensioner pulley. Once the scissor is tighen up, it's up to the whole setup to be misaligned or not. What I'm trying to say is that if I tighten everything, there less likely to be an install flaw. Please don't get me wrong, I just wanna see if my logic make sense in this whole thing. Tell me what do you guys think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
i VieTEC said:
it's a national holiday take a damn break

hahaaha lol it's okay, because it's a holida that's why we got a break lol. Well how in the world did mateo put that belt on??? I tried 77.5 before but it was made by dayco so I thought it could be because of different manufactures but it's definely just won't work :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I don't know how to start this but it was kinda funny how I finally got the Goodyear 77.5 belt fit onto car just like Mateo say and at the same time I found out how to fix the problem that guys with k24 crank pulley have. This whole time I ran the belt from the top of the crank pulley down under the waterpump then go up to the p/s pulley. This totally the wrong way to do it but by doing it this way, I was manage to fit a 79.6 belt but since this is the longer way, the 77.5 didn't fit at all. It's funny sometimes invention happens by accident so here it goes:

cure for k24 pulley hitting the rubber hose:

The problem: the k24 crank pulley(c/p) is bigger than our stock pulley, right obove our crank pulley there is a rubber hose so when we put the k24 c/p, the belt will hit the rubber hose and can cause damage to both hose & belt.

The cure: instead of run the belt from top of the crank pulley str8 to the idler and to the p/s pulley, you will run the belt from top of the c/p down under the waterpump pulley and then up to the p/s pulley. By doing it this way, you will never hit that rubber hose! You will need a longer belt to do this, I suggest something a bit longer than 79 inches long since the k24 c/p is bigger than ours stock.

Disclaimer: I mean no harm to this online community and I just wanna suggest ways to fix things. Althought running the belt from on top of the crank pulley down to the waterpump wasn't the way that JR suggest but I've been having it this way for over a months now with hitting the track on every wednesday so you guys can consider my car been a test car :). Please try this at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
jsfwds2k, I am not exactly sure what are you asking but to make this easy to understand, the stock belt is 78.6 and that works with the stock c/p and 4' sc pulley. Now that you are on the 3.4 and bigger crank pulley, the pulleys compensate each other so it's true that you don't need a longer belt. The only reason why I think u will need a longer belt is because if you route it the way I shown u, it's the long way and you will need a longer belt. I tried a dayco 79.6 which is an inch longer and it fit perfectly fine with the long routeon the 3.4 and stock c/p. I'd say u should try a belt that is about 79.6 or 80 long. The 80 long definely going to fit and there's a very good chance that the 79.6 will work as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
mateo said:
yes i am...i have been running this new belt(7rib poly-v!!)w/out issues...i hold the title i'm sure for broken belts...i have had this kit in the car for 9 months now, and i can tell you my belt problems are gone for now. oh and i have said this before...have a spare in the car w/the(special!!!) allen and a 12mm wrench in the car just in case...don't lose half of a sat. like i did before...
...mateo :spin:

I do have tools in the car as well too :D . You will need the 12mm and also the 13mm to adjust the tensioner and the allen key. It took about an hour yesterday calling around all the autoparts store and finally found a store that was 30 mins away has it. Yup, an extra belt and tools to change it in the car is a must. I also joined AAA plus package where they can tow your car for up to 100 miles. I know we have acura TLC but it prob cost as much as joining AAA to get it tow from the dealer to our house. Maybe I'm worry too much :dontknow: lol
 
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