if it snaps you'll lose power steering and won't be able to drive the car.h22lude said:These belts that are not good, are those the ones that come with the kit?
What happens when the belt snaps? Does it do anything to the engine or do you just not have any boost?
I think he meant the allen wrench that came with the kit.shaggy said:I think this is a good idea....
You never know, but what do you mean by special allen?
i use a grip wrench found at autozone to hold on to the pulley, and then use a big torque wrench to loosen the bolt.alphaSSmale said:Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the blower pulley? Do I need to buy a pulley puller?
sorry to hear bro.alphaSSmale said:I recieved the new blower pully today along with a new belt and new idler pulleys. But them all on, spent a good 30min tensioning the belt drove about 25 MI and guess what.... no more belt :jigglemad :firemad: What am I to do?!?! JR is being real helpful but this is just bad now. That was the sixth belt (I think, hard to remember now). So all in all this is what I have done to try and resolve the belt shredding issue: Replaced the PS Pulley with JR's new one, replaced the blower pulley with JR's new one, installed ES MM inserts, replaced the entire tensioner unit including pulley. I have run out of idea's. I dont understand why some people like Sonny have been running the orig belt that came with the kit and I cant make one belt last more then a couple miles...... Keith said the next step is to send my car to JR's R&D and have them figure it out. I guess thats what I have to do but what a pain in the @$$....
The only thing that I can figure is that the hose that all you guys are talking about that comes out of the side of the engine is rubbing the belt because all my belts have shredded on the driver side. when I installed the new belt today I looked at the gap and there was probably only 1mm between that hose and the belt. What do you think?
In the mean time what 6rib belt can I get that will work with the 7psi pulley? Does anyone have the part# for the goodyear gatorback? Thnx guys![]()
my belt jumps a rib over towards the driver's side if it's loose. in terms of proper tension you'll just have to play with it. once you get it down to the right tension the belt would not jump anymore. But since you have a new belt make sure to check it often because even if you got it down to the proper tension, the belt will stretch over time and it'll jump a rib over again.alphaSSmale said:I dont think my posts are negitive. I am just sharing my experiences with my kit. I hope that I can get this resolved so that I can share my success with everyone here.
Anyway, I installed a 6 rib belt today and the 7psi pulley and WOW, what a huge difference!!! I love it. I took a test drive for about 30 miles which would be plenty of time for a 7 rib belt to shred on me. By the time I got back I popped the hood and noticed that the belt jumped one grove over on the PS Pulley only. All the other pulleys were fine. The belt itself was still in excellent condition because it was the 6 rib belt but a 7 rib belt would have shredded like that. So what would cause this? I believe I tensioned the belt correctly but it must have been loose enough to jump right? How tight is too tight?
CHK did your race header rattled prior welding on the carsound HF cat?chk said:By the way alpha, I see in your sig that you have a hi-flow cat, what brand do you have? I would like to honor the intent of the lawhere in Texas and have one on, but the Carsound one I had on rattled like mad. I have attempted to contact the company I bought it from twice, but they have yet to call me back. :jigglemad
i see. Jotech wanted $250 to weld on a HF cat. that is ridiculously overpriced even though they are a well known shop. I found a muffler place that would do it for $25.chk said:As far as I could tell, no the header did not rattle before the cat was put on. Right after the cat was put on, it started rattling. One night a few weeks ago when we were having all the rain here, I was driving up from Austin when the rattling started up and I thought something was dreadfully wrong with my car. It scared the shit of me, but I kept driving because I was on the middle of nowhere and the noise finally died down. Then the next night in the rain on the way to work, same noise. Then it started all the time to the point I was embarraced to come to a stop at an intersection (I just kept looking straight ahead not looking at the cars around me because I know I didn't want to see the driver next to me looking like WTF). Anyways, I know this getting long :dontknow: , but I had the cat taking off and no more rattling. The techs that took off the cat said it wasn't the inside honeycomb rattling, but one of the outer edges. Man did it make a racket :firemad: . Now, I'm trying to get a replacement one, but I will still have to pay again for another one to be put in.
so did ii VieTEC said:alpha threw a belt with the new pulleys...i'll be installing the new pulleys tomorrow...i'll let you know
:iamwiths: and Keith told me my 7-rib belt jumping case is unique and that they have sold hundreds of the same kit without any problems :shakeheadK20A2 said:It is caused because that pulley is out of alignment. That is what I am working on with JR to get it fixed.
thanks!i VieTEC said:2.5" idle pulley is for shorter fixed scissor plate (below P/S pulley)
2.0" idle pulley is for longer adjustable scissor plate (below Blower pulley)