JRSC belts & pulleys: please discuss it here
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i VieTEC said:
hahaaha lol it's okay, because it's a holida that's why we got a break lol. Well how in the world did mateo put that belt on??? I tried 77.5 before but it was made by dayco so I thought it could be because of different manufactures but it's definely just won't work
I don't know how to start this but it was kinda funny how I finally got the Goodyear 77.5 belt fit onto car just like Mateo say and at the same time I found out how to fix the problem that guys with k24 crank pulley have. This whole time I ran the belt from the top of the crank pulley down under the waterpump then go up to the p/s pulley. This totally the wrong way to do it but by doing it this way, I was manage to fit a 79.6 belt but since this is the longer way, the 77.5 didn't fit at all. It's funny sometimes invention happens by accident so here it goes:
cure for k24 pulley hitting the rubber hose:
The problem: the k24 crank pulley(c/p) is bigger than our stock pulley, right obove our crank pulley there is a rubber hose so when we put the k24 c/p, the belt will hit the rubber hose and can cause damage to both hose & belt.
The cure: instead of run the belt from top of the crank pulley str8 to the idler and to the p/s pulley, you will run the belt from top of the c/p down under the waterpump pulley and then up to the p/s pulley. By doing it this way, you will never hit that rubber hose! You will need a longer belt to do this, I suggest something a bit longer than 79 inches long since the k24 c/p is bigger than ours stock.
Disclaimer: I mean no harm to this online community and I just wanna suggest ways to fix things. Althought running the belt from on top of the crank pulley down to the waterpump wasn't the way that JR suggest but I've been having it this way for over a months now with hitting the track on every wednesday so you guys can consider my car been a test car. Please try this at your own risk.
cure for k24 pulley hitting the rubber hose:
The problem: the k24 crank pulley(c/p) is bigger than our stock pulley, right obove our crank pulley there is a rubber hose so when we put the k24 c/p, the belt will hit the rubber hose and can cause damage to both hose & belt.
The cure: instead of run the belt from top of the crank pulley str8 to the idler and to the p/s pulley, you will run the belt from top of the c/p down under the waterpump pulley and then up to the p/s pulley. By doing it this way, you will never hit that rubber hose! You will need a longer belt to do this, I suggest something a bit longer than 79 inches long since the k24 c/p is bigger than ours stock.
Disclaimer: I mean no harm to this online community and I just wanna suggest ways to fix things. Althought running the belt from on top of the crank pulley down to the waterpump wasn't the way that JR suggest but I've been having it this way for over a months now with hitting the track on every wednesday so you guys can consider my car been a test car
. Please try this at your own risk.back in december when i had my blower i went through 5 belts. i think it was a flawed tensioner unit. who knows though. the first time i snapped it was after the blower was installe dfor like 4 days. luckily i had 4 ribs or so left so i made it home. called JR, he sent a belt under warranty and i bought another just in case. paid 85 bux shipped overnight. those 2 belts snapped the next day. bought another one after i took off and reinstalled the tensioner. that one snapped. so i called up acura and placed an order for an overnight oem belt. that was the end of my charger. sold it on ebay and lost a good 700 bux. lucky me.
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I got a 78.6" belt from Napa autoparts. They ordered it for me and had it second day air to me for 42.00 dollars. This belt still works with the crank pulley. I have it on right now. It is rubbing on the tubing though so I am not driving it. I am going to try to route the belt like tt said and see if it clears this tubing and hose that I think it is hitting. If this doesn't work I will be getting rib of the crank pulley and hopefully I will stop throwing belts. I can see the 77.5 inch belt working with the stock crank pulley and the 3.4" pulley. Because you will losing .6 inches with the s/c pulley and I believe .5 inches with the crank pulley(when compared to the K24 crank pulley). So you will lose 1.1 inch total so if you are using a 78.6 inch belt first and cut down 1.1 inches of diameter on the pulleys the 77.5 inch belt should work fine. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
jsfwds2k, I am not exactly sure what are you asking but to make this easy to understand, the stock belt is 78.6 and that works with the stock c/p and 4' sc pulley. Now that you are on the 3.4 and bigger crank pulley, the pulleys compensate each other so it's true that you don't need a longer belt. The only reason why I think u will need a longer belt is because if you route it the way I shown u, it's the long way and you will need a longer belt. I tried a dayco 79.6 which is an inch longer and it fit perfectly fine with the long routeon the 3.4 and stock c/p. I'd say u should try a belt that is about 79.6 or 80 long. The 80 long definely going to fit and there's a very good chance that the 79.6 will work as well.
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Actually I don't have the 3.4" pulley. I was just telling people that the stock belt will work with the K24 crank pulley. Now if I route it the way you said to, I agree it might be too short. Sorry for the confusion.tt061880 said:
P.S. - I do have the 78.6" belt on my car now and I did have to tighten it a little after I got it on all the pulleys. It was a bitch to get on them all at first, but it does work.
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No once again I haven't done the re route yet. I just know that the way that Jackson says to route the belt works with the K24 crank pulley, 4.0" s/c pulley, and 78.6" belt. Now, it works , but I am having trouble with it hitting the tube coming out of the motor. I will try the re route as soon as I get a chance and post the conclusion in this thread. Sorry for the confusion again. And like I said it is tight as hell to get on, but the belt WILL go on after fiddling with it for a few minutes.
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yes i am...i have been running this new belt(7rib poly-v!!)w/out issues...i hold the title i'm sure for broken belts...i have had this kit in the car for 9 months now, and i can tell you my belt problems are gone for now. oh and i have said this before...have a spare in the car w/the(special!!!) allen and a 12mm wrench in the car just in case...don't lose half of a sat. like i did before...tt061880 said:
...mateo :spin:
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I'm going about a month and a half now with the JRSC Race and still on the original belt with very little belt dust in the engine. I just installed the 3.4" pulley and it looks a little off wrt to the ps pulley. The blower pulley is about 1-2 mm to the left of the ps pulley. I haven't had any problems yet though (knock on wood).tt061880 said:
mateo said:
I do have tools in the car as well too
. You will need the 12mm and also the 13mm to adjust the tensioner and the allen key. It took about an hour yesterday calling around all the autoparts store and finally found a store that was 30 mins away has it. Yup, an extra belt and tools to change it in the car is a must. I also joined AAA plus package where they can tow your car for up to 100 miles. I know we have acura TLC but it prob cost as much as joining AAA to get it tow from the dealer to our house. Maybe I'm worry too much :dontknow: lolI just look at the belt again, very nice suggestion mateo. The side of the goodyear belt isn't as wide as most belt so regardless of the way the pulley machined. There's a pretty good clearance between the outside wall of the belt and the pulley lip.
About the belt stretch after breaking in, how can you tell? Well I'm thinking the easiest way to know that your belt is stretch beside checking it and feel it, you can look at the words label (in my case it says GOODYEAR blah blah blah) and see if those words or letters got stretch longer.
About the belt stretch after breaking in, how can you tell? Well I'm thinking the easiest way to know that your belt is stretch beside checking it and feel it, you can look at the words label (in my case it says GOODYEAR blah blah blah) and see if those words or letters got stretch longer.
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