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JRSC belts & pulleys: please discuss it here

49543 Views 819 Replies 63 Participants Last post by  iamsyko
I know a lot of us JRSC guys having or had problems with our belts and pulleys and a lot of time we hijacking other threads because of it, so I thought it was a good idea to start up on a thread just about jrsc belts and pulleys. The thread is not only for current jrsc peeps but also for the newbies as well so they won't get us frustrated asking the same question over and over again.

I'll start off with one question, I read around and found a member who is using a goodyear 070775 belt which is 7 rib and 77.5 inches long. I tried a dayco belt that was 77.5 long and it wasn't even anywhere close to fitting onto the 3.4 pulley. The dayco 78.9 belt fit extremely well for the purpose. What I want to know is that anyone else tried the goodyear 77.5 long on a 3.4 pulley or is it because different makers make belt a little bit different in length.

TT
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hey u guys, do you ever think about the belt slipping is being at the crank pulley also???
tt061880 said:
hey u guys, do you ever think about the belt slipping is being at the crank pulley also???
Are you running nitrous yet? I want to know how you would set up nitrous with kpro

someone hurry up and run a 50 shot with kpro and jrsc and take pics of installation and do a detailed writeup...and and and....yea i'm bored and i might get nx kit for christmas :dontknow:
tt061880 said:
hey u guys, do you ever think about the belt slipping is being at the crank pulley also???

It could I guess.?. I am not sure though.

Jamie
tt061880 said:
hey u guys, do you ever think about the belt slipping is being at the crank pulley also???

well I just reroute the belt to give the crank pulley more belt surface. I also bypass the p/s pump as well. With this method, the belt issue is GONE for good and you don't need the belt to be that tight either. The belt I'm using is 70.5 long, now if you route the belt the regular way,that is running the water pump between the alternator and the a/c, you just need to go about 1.5 inch shorter I think. About the power steering, I know the EP3 civic has an electric p/s pump, I'm going to buy that and try to modify it to fit in our car. Take a look at this diagram and give me some inputs folks, thanks.
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So you have rotated the angle of stress/pull of the belt on the water pump and a/c by 90 degrees. Don't know if Honda designed the pulleys to put up with the belt tension at those angles you know. So now the pulley with the least surface area contact with the belt is the alternator?

How does the car feel btw? Any faster or higher boost reading? What is it like to drive the car without p/s for extended period of time? I guess Chris did the same thing so he would know huh. Good luck bro
yeah the alternator has the least surface, I just put the belt on so I haven't driven it yet but I can imagine my arm going to get bigger since I have no p/s lol
Only problem I would be concerned with is, Is the water pump getting enough belt surface to turn. No water circulation equates to overheating.


tt061880 said:
well I just reroute the belt to give the crank pulley more belt surface. I also bypass the p/s pump as well. With this method, the belt issue is GONE for good and you don't need the belt to be that tight either. The belt I'm using is 70.5 long, now if you route the belt the regular way,that is running the water pump between the alternator and the a/c, you just need to go about 1.5 inch shorter I think. About the power steering, I know the EP3 civic has an electric p/s pump, I'm going to buy that and try to modify it to fit in our car. Take a look at this diagram and give me some inputs folks, thanks.
tt061880 said:
well I just reroute the belt to give the crank pulley more belt surface. I also bypass the p/s pump as well. With this method, the belt issue is GONE for good and you don't need the belt to be that tight either. The belt I'm using is 70.5 long, now if you route the belt the regular way,that is running the water pump between the alternator and the a/c, you just need to go about 1.5 inch shorter I think. About the power steering, I know the EP3 civic has an electric p/s pump, I'm going to buy that and try to modify it to fit in our car. Take a look at this diagram and give me some inputs folks, thanks.

I think it would work as long as the alternator has enough belt wrap. It looks a little iffy. If it works let me know. I might try this to see if it gets rid of my bump.

Jamie
the waterpump will get the same amount of belt surface, the only problem I'm facing right now is the steering is VERY HEAVY. I don't know if you have to flush out all the p/s fluid or what because I know it shouldn't be that heavy to turn the steering wheel. Something else must be done to the steering system because it's pretty dangerous to drive wit the steering like that.
Well, what did you think was going to happen. Power Steering, Power Assist, Electric Power Steering. It all means easier steering. You take away the hydraulic nature of that effort and you exert that nature. The power steering fluid plays zero role now that you isolated the pump. Your new pump is your arms and the force exerted on the steering wheel. I used to drive a 79 Cabellero without power steering or power assist and it was a dream in a straight line. But on turns it was work.
off topic: Wdsonny, can you tell me which gasket and where you got it from to replace the one in between the IAC valve and spacer?
The shop that did all that used some RTV.
PERMATEX® Sensor Safe Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
The original Blue. Will not foul oxygen sensors. Replaces almost any cut gasket. Makes reliable "formed-in-place" gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker. Also available in AUTOMATIC TUBE® dispenser.

Suggested Applications:
Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans.

It can be used for almost anything.
I've driven car without power steering before and they aren't that bad, something else is needed to be done about the power steering system but I don't know what. I guess i'll wait until I can get my hand on an EP3 p/s pump
tt061880 said:
I've driven car without power steering before and they aren't that bad, something else is needed to be done about the power steering system but I don't know what. I guess i'll wait until I can get my hand on an EP3 p/s pump
You need the whole steering rack and some Major modifications. WE looked into it already, there is a thread with parts and everything listed to lazy to search right now.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=129011

This is very interesting. I think this is the link that steve is talking about. If it is only around 400 I might do this. If I can find the money and time. You might want to pm hotwheelz and see if he had it done.

Jamie
OMG that's costly, Okay I'm going to give up the 9psi pulley and going with nitrous then, thanks Steve
yey!! my redesigned tensioner, sc pulley and a new belt are on the way. any comments from those that already have this new tensioner?
ocorzo said:
yey!! my redesigned tensioner, sc pulley and a new belt are on the way. any comments from those that already have this new tensioner?
It is a pain in teh ass to tighten the belt now. The allen head bolts are so much harder to get a wrench down there to tighten it. It takes about 2 times as long to tighten it now.

Jamie
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