Yea, I got mine (9PSI) and it's great. It is black to match the other Power Steering pulley and not silver. I changed the pulley and belt without taking anything appart minus 1/2 of the tensioner assembly. $91 shipped!alphaSSmale said:
JRSC belts & pulleys: please discuss it here
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best way to tighten your belt on the JRSC
all -
i would just like to say that the method suggested in this thread for how to tighten the belt works great. ill review it now for those unfamiliar with it:
1) turn on car, turn on A/C on max, turn on all electronics, etc.
2) turn the steering wheel all the way to one side
3) if you hear a squeak or squeal from the belt in step 2, turn off the car and give the bolt on tensioner one full turn. go back to step 1 and repeat until there is no squeal.
if you think your belt is too tight, loosen it one turn at a time until your belt squeals doing the above procedure. then tighten it one more turn just enough for the belt not to squeal.
this method puts perfect tension on the belt, and makes it the least likely you will throw or shred your belt.
:-D
all -
i would just like to say that the method suggested in this thread for how to tighten the belt works great. ill review it now for those unfamiliar with it:
1) turn on car, turn on A/C on max, turn on all electronics, etc.
2) turn the steering wheel all the way to one side
3) if you hear a squeak or squeal from the belt in step 2, turn off the car and give the bolt on tensioner one full turn. go back to step 1 and repeat until there is no squeal.
if you think your belt is too tight, loosen it one turn at a time until your belt squeals doing the above procedure. then tighten it one more turn just enough for the belt not to squeal.
this method puts perfect tension on the belt, and makes it the least likely you will throw or shred your belt.
:-D
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I would think so since sonny has done 11psi+50 shot on a 11.0 compression.Bubz said:
Plus your type R can breath better up top compared to the S anyways, if you're just really really worried about it I would get a real good tune(dyno) right afterwards.
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There is no simple yes/no answer. Fact is you're taking a risk by putting that much stress on a high compression engine. That doesn't mean it's going to blow up right away. Sonny's been pushing his car very hard for tens of thousands of miles and never had a problem (touch wood). With a clean installation, taking good care of your motor, and a good tune, chances are even a 9-12psi installation will be safe for a good, long time. But you ARE putting a lot of extra stress on the engine, and that means that the design life of the affected parts will be shorter. It is all a calculated risk, and how much of it we're willing to take.Bubz said:
The Lotus Elises are supercharged with k20a's. They are running fine. The Ariel atom is using the Civic Si and JRSC at 11.5:1. They are fine. Keep the compression and go 9psi on the blower. Use your own judgement as to what you want to you do. I was told that 11psi on the JRSC couldn't be done, I did it. I was told that dry nitrous and [email protected] shouldn't be done, I am doing it. Everytime someone tells me that I cannot do something, I go out of my way to prove that it can done. I do not like the word CANNOT. Again, I will put this out. Every car is different. My car maybe a factory freak and is above the law in some aspects. Your car may not be the freak. With anything you do to your car, if something goes wrong, accept the responsibility of what you did. If you put the K24 crank pulley on and 3.2inch blower pulley and a you sling a rod at 9000RPM. Accept the fact that you pushed the car beyond it's limits.
One more thing. If you think about it for a second. The car is not making boost constantly. In all fairness, I only hit boost about 4 times a day and that is only for about 4000RPM. Getting on the freeway in third gear to redline. That is is for the most part. I have my rare freeway roll with a burnt out Civic, but that is the extent of it. The car does not make boost all the time, so the pressure is not constant.
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Same with me. When I look at my logs, I am off-boost about 98% of the time. I am thinking more in general terms: if components are designed for certain stress levels, then subjecting them to higher levels will necessarily result in higher wear, and likely the wear will increase geometrically as you go beyond the design spec. And if you go much beyond design levels, then it is possible that the weakest link breaks. This is all logical stuff, and I think most of us are aware of all this. We're pushing the envelope and take a calculated risk.wdsonny said:
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