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Well I am hoping it will fix my issue. I have always tried to be really nice to Keith, it seems to help me get what I want....
 

· ///elitist prick
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uchiha said:
In my case, the "re-designed" p/s pulley did not solve the belt shredding problem at all, as a matter of fact it made the matter worse.

I put on a brand new 7 rib belt (had to pay for it, Keith didn't offer to send me a new one) with the redesigned p/s pulley. let the engine idle for a minute and I notice the belt was shredding towards the driver's side. Tighten up the belt a little bit more and let it run for bout 30 seconds, the belt jumped right off.

so now i'm back to the original p/s pulley and a 6 rib belt.
damn, i wish some of you guys lived in my area... i'd love to take a look at your setup and compare it to mine. i can't understand why some are having so many problems with their belts, while others like myself are still on the original belt.
 

· Sold My baby!! :(
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I am in the same boat you are. I wish someone lived near me so I could check out their setup also. I am pretty sure that my crank pulley is messed up. And that is what is causing my problems. I will find out soon.
 

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· Ayatollah
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K20A2 said:
One other thing, the magical bolt that everyone keeps stripping out. I took a carriage bolt and fed it through the pulley side of the tensioner. This make it so you have a square object in a round hole. :) Then I took a lock washer and nut and put them on the engine mount side. This has done away with any slipping problems, but it did take a lot of customizing to get it done. I used a 3/8 carriage bolt, which is quite a bit larger than the one Jackson does. Also, I had to cut the top (round part) of the bolt in half using a grinder because the pulley wouldn't go flat. I don't have any pictures, but I will post some up shortly.
Sorry to jump in so late on this one (and for a potential hijack), but I've been having one hell of a time with this tensioner bolt. I know I could tighten my belt a little more (there's more than 1/4" give) but if I tighten that bolt anymore, it starts to bend. I even snapped it one time. I had to rig up a fix like you mentioned above, grinding down the head of a carriage bolt and threading it from the front to the back. But even that started to bend. I now have a shitload of 60mm 8x1.25, which are the exact size of the original, bolts on hand in case the tensioner bolt snaps on me again.

The problem is that the lower mount for that bolt, the non-threaded mount, does not remain flush against the scissor bracket, it actually bends toward the front of the car.

Anyone find a solid fix for this?
 

· Sold My baby!! :(
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He was talking about the other bolt not the tensioner bolt. I have never heard of doing this for the actual tensioner bolt. Hey but if it works do it!

Now for my problem again! I took my car out tonight and drove it really hard. I hit probably 8600 before letting off. My problem is, that I only hit 7.1 PSI. This is by the Kpro so I am sure it is right. I took the MAP-14.7 and that is what I got. The bad part is I have the K24 crank pulley and I don't hit 7 PSI until about 8000 RPM's. Why am I not hitting 9 PSI and why is it not hitting full boost until 8000 RPm? I could live with it hitting 7 PSI if it hit 7 PSI at say 5 or 6000 rpm. not 8000. If anyone has any suggestions please help. I feel it is a vacuum leak because the pressure will not build up. This is why it isn't hitting max boost until 8000 RPM and it isn't hitting 9 PSI. Please give your input.

By the way my tensioner bolt is also looking a little crooked when it is tight in the tensioner.

Jamie
 

· Sold My baby!! :(
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I had the sob so tight I was afraid it would mess up the charger. There is no way it is slipping. Trust me. Thanks anyway. Anyone have any other suggestions? Could I have a leak somewhere that may not cause odd idle? Because I don't have an idle problem. Usually you do with a vacuum leak. Does anyone have any proof that the K24 crank pulley does in fact increase the PSI to 9 PSI? I am curious about this because the increase is only about 1/2 inch. Which is actually a little less than the 3.4 Blower pulley. Anyone who has hit 9 PSI woth just the crank pulley and 4" blower pulley please resond. OR if you have heard of this.

Thanks again.

JAmie
 

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jsfwds2k said:
I had the sob so tight I was afraid it would mess up the charger...
JAmie
this is not a good idea...you will not only wear out the idler pullies...but it will be bad for the whole set up/charger internals as well as your belt life will fade fast! loosen it up...
... :spin:
 

· Sold My baby!! :(
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I exaggerated a little. I knew it couldn't be that tight because the belt actually still jumped a rib on me. I know I had it about right. ANyway, I think I know what my belt is hitting on now. I just thought about this: When I look at the idle pulley the belt is all the way to the driver side of the pulley. All the other pulleys has the belt positioned to the passenger side. This makes me wonder how the 7 rib would be placed on the same pulley. It is bound to throw belts if it is hanging 1 rib off the idler pulley. I almost think it is coming off the crank wrong. I thought at first the crank pulley was bent but it only looks like it sometimes. So now I am second guessing it. I then thought maybe there is a spacer that needs to go between the crank and the block. Then that would throw the other pulleys off a little. I drove the car for three days and the belt stayed in the same position. Then yesterday it jumped but only on the P/S pulley. Now it is toward the driver side and the other pulleys are still towards the passenger side. I would say that this isn't good for the belt. I don't intend on driving it much until I get this figure out. Anyone have any suggestions? Also this might be a cause of my boost not hitting 9 PSI also. Maybe a belt slipping issue because of this pulley alignment? FEel free to comment please.
 

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Today I installed the new PS pully and a new belt. Within 15miles of driving my belt was torn to threads. :( Right before the break I smelt a burning smell. couldn't really tell what it was though... So that was my fith belt. I guess I gotta call JR again tomorrow and see what they say.
 

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alphaSSmale said:
Today I installed the new PS pully and a new belt. Within 15miles of driving my belt was torn to threads. :( Right before the break I smelt a burning smell. couldn't really tell what it was though... So that was my fith belt. I guess I gotta call JR again tomorrow and see what they say.

damn bro the problems you are having makes me not want to get this kit.
 

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Well the good thing I can say is that JR has always been willing to help and has always shipped me what I needed next day for free. I understand this is still a new kit and they have some bugs to work out so I dont mind as long as its not coming out of my pocket. There have been times when I wanted to go back to stock but the JRSC is just too much fun, I love it! when it works of course...
 

· Ayatollah
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My belt finally shredded on me this weekend. One major problem was that my new 3.4" pulley wasn't lined up with the p/s pulley. It seems when I pulled the old 4" pulley off, the supercharger shank came out just a bit...wtf??!!! Anyway, I tapped it back in until the pulleys lined up, put on a new belt, (now using a 6 rib goodyear until I can get the 7 rib) and everything's working like a charm. Power seems more instantaneous and consistant.

I guess this is a word of caution to those upgrading the s/c pulley, be careful taking off the old pulley and make sure the s/c shank is realligned when you put the new pulley on!
 
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