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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it was a combination of two things. A bad gasket and IAC motor. Yesterday I replaced the orange gasket that goes on between the throttle body and IAC valve and replace the IACV motor (not the whole assembly). This semed to fix my high idle problem all together :) :D . Not only is the idle problem completely gone but the car actually drives much better. No more jerking in the lower gears. Whats weird is the original orange gasket looks perfectly fine. The only reason why I thought to replace it was because when I inspected it yesterday I noticed coolant starting to leak past it. I figured if coolant could leak past the gasket so could air.

Anyways I am kinda disapointed at JR, they offered me virtually no help. They sent me to their R&D guy in westminster who charged me $70 to tell me he didnt know what the issue was and that he suggest he replace the manafold gasket (another $300 - $400)... I have to say JR really fell through on this one. Keith (who I respect over there) suggest I do the same. I am glad I didnt listen...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thats what pissed me off, $70 to tell me nothing. Actually... $70 to give me bad advice....

How boost miles on your clutch??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
h22lude said:
Are you happy with the JR product?
YES! I love it! I has getting really disapointed at first and almost went back to stock because I was spending all my free time under the car trying to fix this one problem. Dont get me wrong, I love working on the car but I wasnt making any progress and I was getting frusterated. Anyway, now that everything is working I can start looking at other mods... Plus its a blast to put $40,000 cars to shame :)

Bigbuyer2477 said:
What kind of "high" idle problem did you experience with a bad AIAC valve?
My car would idle anywhere from 1200-1700 RPM while stopped at a light. It hurt my performance too because the lower gears would be jerky as the idle would increase and decrease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
wdsonny said:
25k about. I got the JRSC installed with 15k and at 40k. Plus, all the racing I have done. I knew it would happen but oh well. Here is my next setup, once I get some more cash. Bills, bills, bills. http://www.daikin-clutch.com/products/sports.shtml
I havent heard of them, are they good? Have you looked at the ACT clutches?
 

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Thanks alhpa I have the same problem, car will be going in this week to the machanic I will let him know what you found out.

Thanks alot dude you saved me a bundle. :thumbsup:
 

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///elitist prick
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alphaSSmale said:
Well it was a combination of two things. A bad gasket and IAC motor. Yesterday I replaced the orange gasket that goes on between the throttle body and IAC valve and replace the IACV motor (not the whole assembly). This semed to fix my high idle problem all together :) :D . Not only is the idle problem completely gone but the car actually drives much better. No more jerking in the lower gears. Whats weird is the original orange gasket looks perfectly fine. The only reason why I thought to replace it was because when I inspected it yesterday I noticed coolant starting to leak past it. I figured if coolant could leak past the gasket so could air.

Anyways I am kinda disapointed at JR, they offered me virtually no help. They sent me to their R&D guy in westminster who charged me $70 to tell me he didnt know what the issue was and that he suggest he replace the manafold gasket (another $300 - $400)... I have to say JR really fell through on this one. Keith (who I respect over there) suggest I do the same. I am glad I didnt listen...
ahhh, that evil orange gasket!!
i reinstalled it on the wrong side of the iac spacer, that's what let the coolant/water get into my engine.

glad to hear you finally got it all figured out. and you were gonna give up and sell the sc... shame on you!
 

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Sold My baby!! :(
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I wonder if my idle is messed up too. Mine doesn't seem to idle that high though. Every once in a while it will drop the rpms to like 500 and then to 1200 but it gets back to 850 fairly quickly. And it also seems to do it only when I am slowing down or stopping while turning the wheel. I don't think this is the same problem but I thought I would ask. Thanks guys.
 

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I also had bad idle using the stock map for the 440cc @ 5psi. I am pushing less than 4psi, more like 3psi on average. I did 15 dyno runs today and got the idle issue sorted out too. Every time at idle (set at 1000rpm to alleviate the motor mount vibes) when I revved it up then on the way down it would dip into the 500rpm range and nearly stall. The fuel was way too lean (about 17.5:1) at idle and I richened up the fuel map about 100 points in the range and it settles very nicely now. On a side note I also had to richen up allot of the maps that were offered by Hondata to get my A/F near 12:1 under WOT. On the whole I am quite impressed with the response and gains. Here is a pic of the final runs with 3psi (SAE) using the 4.4" pulley. Next up is the 4.0" then the 3.4". Run #18 I backed off the timing by 2 degrees (all maps) for safety and the tq went down slightly. Once I got the fuel issue smoothed out, I think I could advance the timing quite a bit more over the stock map with my lower compression. I am near 4 degrees advanced over the stock map and never got a knock pushing it to 7 degrees advance. Each advancement of timing improved tq and hp. I may lean it out to 13:1 see what that gets as well. Under WOT and boost (albeit minimal for me at this point) it’s safer to have it rich than lean.
:thumbsup:
 

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konichiwa
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myeverlovinsir said:
I also had bad idle using the stock map for the 440cc @ 5psi. I am pushing less than 4psi, more like 3psi on average. I did 15 dyno runs today and got the idle issue sorted out too. Every time at idle (set at 1000rpm to alleviate the motor mount vibes) when I revved it up then on the way down it would dip into the 500rpm range and nearly stall. The fuel was way too lean (about 17.5:1) at idle and I richened up the fuel map about 100 points in the range and it settles very nicely now. On a side note I also had to richen up allot of the maps that were offered by Hondata to get my A/F near 12:1 under WOT. On the whole I am quite impressed with the response and gains. Here is a pic of the final runs with 3psi (SAE) using the 4.4" pulley. Next up is the 4.0" then the 3.4". Run #18 I backed off the timing by 2 degrees (all maps) for safety and the tq went down slightly. Once I got the fuel issue smoothed out, I think I could advance the timing quite a bit more over the stock map with my lower compression. I am near 4 degrees advanced over the stock map and never got a knock pushing it to 7 degrees advance. Each advancement of timing improved tq and hp. I may lean it out to 13:1 see what that gets as well. Under WOT and boost (albeit minimal for me at this point) it’s safer to have it rich than lean.
:thumbsup:
interesting numbers. I'm sure you'll do a ton better when you put the smaller pulley on...by the way, not sure if you are a member on k-series.com ...but we'd be glad to see you post your numbers and info over there
 

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Nice numbers for only 3psi. I had that almost stalling idle problem before but it is completely gone now thanks to K-Pro and Doug's tuning. I'm using 4.0" pulley to get the numbers in my sig. 3.4" pulley will be installed and tuned in a month or two. I see you have somewhat of a K20A3 also :thumbsup:
 

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konichiwa
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i VieTEC said:
Nice numbers for only 3psi. I had that almost stalling idle problem before but it is completely gone now thanks to K-Pro and Doug's tuning. I'm using 4.0" pulley to get the numbers in my sig. 3.4" pulley will be installed and tuned in a month or two. I see you have somewhat of a K20A3 also :thumbsup:
yeah, he has a type s head also
 
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