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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive searched. Not just here, but other forums too, so be gentle and hear me out before you say this horse has been beaten enough.

I have a 2002 Type S. The car suffered some rear end damage and its no longer road worthy. I picked up a 2004 base auto in really good shape. Guy said "bad engine". I don't care because I want my A2 in it. Now, I know this can be done, it's like legos. Where im asking for help is regarding the immobilizer. Neither ECU is modified, but I have a hunch, so here goes:

Since I have both complete cars, why can't I swap out the ignition switch, door lock cylinders, ECU, and immobilizer all at once and just basically use my 2002 key and fob with the new 2004 body? Or CAN I do that without issue?

I just havent seen this specific question be answered. It seems to make logical sense to me, but we know how logic is. Sorry for beating a dead horse guys. Any feedback is appreciated and thanks in advance!
 

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Jimbo's Cowering Employee
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My guess would be that as long as you change everything key related you shouldn't have an issue with the key and key fob working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That was my guess too, but I keep hearing people swear you must have KPRO or get the ECU flashed by the dealer. I just wanted to see if anyone has done a swap successfully by just changing out all the security/key related items. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Base engine is almost ready to pull. Should be out by lunch tomorrow and I can start pulling the type S.
 

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Jimbo's Cowering Employee
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The Kpro argument is for someone swapping just the ECU into their car. With Kpro you can turn the immobilizer function off (making your car easier to steal). But I have also heard of people getting a new ECU reprogrammed to the car usually by the dealer. Not sure if Kpro has that feature yet.

If you swap the ECU, immobilizer, and the key cylinders I don't see why you would have any issues. They are all programmed to talk to each other and should work in any car. You are probably finding people who swapped a Type-S motor into a base and since they only bought an ECU they had to have Kpro to get it to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I appreciate the feedback. Seems more and more promising as I learn more. Today's goal is get the engine and trans out of the base and look at the possibility of pulling the A3 engine harness and using the A2. I know it CAN be done. I just have to look at it and decide if that's a battle I feel like fighting. I'll definitely be back if I have any questions. Pretty much everything else can be found in other threads, but I'll keep my eye on the post and try to update. I will definitely let you guys know what my end result is. It may open the door for someone else in the same boat as me. Thanks again for the feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So far, so good. One last stupid question though. I'm having trouble finding information on the dash harnesses. Can I use the existing base dash harness with my type s ECU and gauge cluster? Or do I need to swap the type S dash harness with it? I know theyre not the same part number, but I'm not swapping any of the type S interior with the engine. Anyone have any input to offer? Thanks again guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
After combing through wiring diagrams, I noticed the base ECU and Type S ECU don't even have the same pinout connectors. So I looked at diagrams of those. The base ECU utilizies 5 connectors, referred to in the "book" as A, B, C, D and E. The type S ECU only utilizes 3. A, B and E. C is on the engine harness, which I swapped out so it's irrelevant. Connector D is on the dash harness, but after looking at the pinout diagrams, it appears to be related spclecifically to the automatic transmission. The abbreviations for the pins are: S-MODE, S-UP, ATPN, ATPR, ATPP, S-DN, ATPD and CCS. My assumption is that S-MODE is when you're in tiptronic mode and the corresponding S-UP and S-DN are shift up and shift down. The ATP abbreviations appear to be P(ark), N(eutral), D(rive) and R(everse). I dont know if these correspond to the gauge cluster or communicate directly with the transmission, though. Either way, it seems that I can simply leave that connector off because there wont be an automatic transmission in the car when I'm done. I'm going to leave the base harness in place and put my type S cluster on it. I wont have anything to plug connector C into, so I'll let you know how it turns out. Just wanted to share my findings and see if anyone had anything to add.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yesterday turned out to be a wash and I didn't make any progress. Today I was swapping the brake and clutch pedals with the clutch master cylinder and noticed the base auto I'm swapping into has an aftermarket security system spliced into the harness. Though it looks to be a clean install, I'm not taking any chances. I'm going to swap the Type S dash harness too. More work, but it's going to ensure this goes as smoothly as possible. I need to make a mount for the top of the clutch pedal assembly. I've seen where people opted out of fabricating the mount, but I don't want to have to revisit this after I'm done. Today I'll be dropping the type s engine and trans and cutting the holes for the CMC and hopefully getting it mounted up. If I have time, I'll start removing the type s dash and harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright, this project is almost wrapped up. I got tags on the car yesterday and took it for a ride. It threw a CEL and it turned out to be the rear o2 sensor. It turned out that the sensor wasnt plugged in completely. Cleared the code and it hasnt come back. Everything seems to be working perfectly except the stereo. I have power but no sound because I didn't swap the Bose stuff over. Today I'll be tracking all my speaker wires down and repinning the connectors and possibly installing some jumpers. I have no issues with my keys, locks, or security system in general. Everything works exactly how I had hoped. If anyone has any questions about this project, feel free to pm me or ask here.
 
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