I'm sure I will be the 1000000000th person to ask this but....why not just swap in a Z1? You clearly will have the money and 350whp will be no sweat.
k20a3 handle over 350whp?
hey what's up guys? I've been asking this question everywhere kind of gets overlooked or half serious answers...so basically what I want to know is.. I have my complete turbo kit and ordering oher miscellaneous parts like rbc type s tb ect ect..but since the a3 rods are weak wondering if I change those out to the eagle rods and bearrings and mate it with wiseco 9:1 86mm bore pistons and also balance the crankshaft and bearings. when I put it all back togethere will my a3 be able to handle over 350whp safely or am I still limited to 300whp like everone else and I can't hit 350whp what else will I need? thanks in advance
cliff notes
eagle rods and bearrings wiseco 9to1 pistons can and will a3 handle 350whp of not what else needed
cliff notes
eagle rods and bearrings wiseco 9to1 pistons can and will a3 handle 350whp of not what else needed
1 - 20 of 123 Posts
I'm sure I will be the 1000000000th person to ask this but....why not just swap in a Z1? You clearly will have the money and 350whp will be no sweat.
honestly well the work that would be getting done to my a3 dropping it and changing internals will be done cheap I know if I get a swap work will be done cheap but I still have to change pistons for the lower compression not to mention I haven't come across a good deal on other motors
I would go ahead and sleeve the block too, that will allow you to make 350hp and go way up from there.
instead of swapping internals y dont u slap on a k24a1 crv head...will make 340+ safely and outflows the a2/a3 heads. and there is no aftermarket rods for the a3. you would have to modify the rods bc the a3 rod journals are smaller then the a2.hey what's up guys? I've been asking this question everywhere kind of gets overlooked or half serious answers...so basically what I want to know is.. I have my complete turbo kit and ordering oher miscellaneous parts like rbc type s tb ect ect..but since the a3 rods are weak wondering if I change those out to the eagle rods and bearrings and mate it with wiseco 9:1 86mm bore pistons and also balance the crankshaft and bearings. when I put it all back togethere will my a3 be able to handle over 350whp safely or am I still limited to 300whp like everone else and I can't hit 350whp what else will I need? thanks in advance
cliff notes
eagle rods and bearrings wiseco 9to1 pistons can and will a3 handle 350whp of not what else needed
but if u insist on making it safe it would be easier to just swap the block to a a2 and then it would be safe.
if the bare blocks are the same y would sleeving be a factor? isnt stock sleeves good enough..i know i shouldnt compare the two but the full-race pink car they had on pinks was on stock sleeves and im sure they was making well over 350whp..they only had forged internals.I would go ahead and sleeve the block too, that will allow you to make 350hp and go way up from there.
oh shyt wait a minute the rods are diffrent size..now this i did not know..see i was gonna just take the rods bearing and pistons all apart and send the short block with everything seperate to a machine shop and have them put it all together..would that include them customizing to make the rods fit?if not then fuck might as well wait to find a a2 dealinstead of swapping internals y dont u slap on a k24a1 crv head...will make 340+ safely and outflows the a2/a3 heads. and there is no aftermarket rods for the a3. you would have to modify the rods bc the a3 rod journals are smaller then the a2.
but if u insist on making it safe it would be easier to just swap the block to a a2 and then it would be safe.
and yea i was actually gonna do the crv head swap but no point in doing that if i cant be at that horsepower safely thats why i wanted to go rods/pistons
and honestly the most i wanna get outta of my car is like 400whp
I don't think you are correct on the cylinder heads. They have different port styles but most people I know run the A2 head for max power.instead of swapping internals y dont u slap on a k24a1 crv head...will make 340+ safely and outflows the a2/a3 heads. and there is no aftermarket rods for the a3. you would have to modify the rods bc the a3 rod journals are smaller then the a2.
but if u insist on making it safe it would be easier to just swap the block to a a2 and then it would be safe.
Sure, you can make 350hp, 400hp, or 700hp on a stock sleeve, it is just a question of how long it will last. My point was that if you tear the whole thing down you might was well build it better than before and cover your weak points. The stock sleeve is a known weak point so fix that issue.if the bare blocks are the same y would sleeving be a factor? isnt stock sleeves good enough..i know i shouldnt compare the two but the full-race pink car they had on pinks was on stock sleeves and im sure they was making well over 350whp..they only had forged internals.
What you didn't see is when that engine blew up. Just because it made a few passes down the drag strip it doesn't mean that you can use it in a daily driver.
oh yea not to mention this will be a daily driver...since there are no aftermarket rods that fit what can i do to fix that ?is it gonna be hard to customize the rods to go in?
I don't think that juicyjoint316 is correct on his comment about the rods. I haven't heard a single thing about not being able to use rods on an A3 crank. The only difference that I have ever found is the A3 isn't balanced.
yea ive read that the a3 isnt balanced but i was thinking if i take the rods and bearing and pistons all apart send to my local machine shop have them balance everything out and put it all in for me would i be good..and boom a safelty dd a3 boosted or shoudl i just swap my crank of an a2 and do the process of balancing with the rods and pistons as i mentioned above.....basically i have 85k on my car i know if i do what i stated above its like a new engine and i just wanna be dd fast i dont go crazy racing or anything i just punch here and there on the open toll roads..
I would take them the rods and pistons and have them balance everything to the crank. that would be a really good way to go and it would be a pretty killer bottom end.
first just wanted to say a big thank you for answering my questions and not bashing me..thank you very informative...and nowI would take them the rods and pistons and have them balance everything to the crank. that would be a really good way to go and it would be a pretty killer bottom end.
is that balancing to the stock crank or a2 crank?
ok tell me if in the right direction? eagle h rods and bearings. wiseco 9:1 pistons balancing to the crank(either a2 or a3 depnding on what ur answer is). rbc, type s tb ,walbro 255 fuel pump, t3/t4 garrett, 2.5 downpipe to 3" exhaust,full race front mount. precison 750s and ccstg4. innovative engine mounts n of coarse k pro I have everything mentioned minace the rods n pistons will all that be safely done with 350whp in mind dd n possibly more ponies ? sorry for the novel
I would balance to the A3 crank that you already have, no need to spend money on an A2 crank.
I think you will probably make over 350 with that setup. I, personally, would lean toward a 10.0:1 piston because it is a flat piston and you get a better burn and more complete burn in the cylinder. The injectors also seem large, I can't see needing over 550cc as long as you do a return line fuel system. The rest seems good to me.
I think you will probably make over 350 with that setup. I, personally, would lean toward a 10.0:1 piston because it is a flat piston and you get a better burn and more complete burn in the cylinder. The injectors also seem large, I can't see needing over 550cc as long as you do a return line fuel system. The rest seems good to me.
head alone, yah, outflows a2/a3 head. but the cams used in the crv head dont allow full utilization of the flow. its a good, cheap substitute to a2 head. not best for power, but good compromise for gas mileage and power.instead of swapping internals y dont u slap on a k24a1 crv head...will make 340+ safely and outflows the a2/a3 heads. and there is no aftermarket rods for the a3. you would have to modify the rods bc the a3 rod journals are smaller then the a2.
but if u insist on making it safe it would be easier to just swap the block to a a2 and then it would be safe.
weakest link of a3 bottom are the rods.
really 10:1 my uncle was saying something about that flatness of it for the better burn .the injectors are kind of big but hey it was part of my whole package:dontknow:..and oohweeee good to hear i can get rid of the crank walk with my stock a3 crank thanks for all the info and if anyone wants to add more info ill take it..all im doing is research and researchI would balance to the A3 crank that you already have, no need to spend money on an A2 crank.
I think you will probably make over 350 with that setup. I, personally, would lean toward a 10.0:1 piston because it is a flat piston and you get a better burn and more complete burn in the cylinder. The injectors also seem large, I can't see needing over 550cc as long as you do a return line fuel system. The rest seems good to me.
In the k-series, 10.0:1 is a flat piston. Go with the injector that will run about 70% to 80% duty cycle. That means the injector will be open for longer and deliver a more consistent amount of fuel. Using a really large injector causes it to open and close are a really high rate which can cause inconsistent fuel delivery and makes it harder to tune.
y not what?y not
1 - 20 of 123 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum
A forum community dedicated to Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, K24 swaps, turbo kits, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
