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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been having a problem with oil consumption for a while now and just found what is more than likely my problem. Attatched are two pics. One is the spark plug from my number two cylinder. You can see a small amount of oil on the threads. The next picture is the tube where the spark plug goes into. There is oil way down there coming in. I am going to do a comperssion test on Tuesday just to be sure everything is fine with the cylinders. There is also no burt oil or residue on the piston head that I can see. It appears to be coming in right under the tube going down there. If so how can that be fixed. Any other opinions on how is leaking in there and how to fix it are greatly welcomed.
 

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You need a valve cover gasket set ,,, cover gasket & 4 "o" ring type gaskets for that leak. I doubt it has anything to do with much of an oil consumption problem though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As for those 4 o rings, I assume they are just seals that go around the spark plug tubes? And would it be safe to assume if a compression test is good I need to check the valve seals?
 

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I don't think that's your problem. I've seen plugs look a lot worse than that.
1) how much oil are you "burning"?
2) Do see a leak or smell it burning?
3) What type of oil are you using?
I use 0w-40 Mobil One and I notice that I'll consume a qt every 2K-2,5K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its hard to tell exactly how much I am burning. I used Mobile one once and thats when I noticed how bad it was. After about 3k miles I had about 2 1/2 quarts left and I had a knocking noise coming from the engine. Once I had added more oil the knocking went away.

The only leak I see is whats in the picture I took. My exhaust smells a lot more now (once I got the SSR headers), but I also have quite a bit of black smoke coming out at around 6-7k rpms. Which made me think I am burning something.

After I tried the Mobile One I switched back to Castrol GTX 10w-30 for a little more weight.
 

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I'd do a leak down test instead of a compression test. You'd prolly have to go to a mechanic since you need a compressor and leak down guage. It'll give you a better idea of whether or not there actually is a problem.

I use M1 5w30 and usually have to put in a quart at least once between oil changes.
 

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I'd do a leak down test instead of a compression test. You'd prolly have to go to a mechanic since you need a compressor and leak down guage. It'll give you a better idea of whether or not there actually is a problem.

I use M1 5w30 and usually have to put in a quart at least once between oil changes.
yup. leakdown test then compression test... I think in your case leakdown would be more revealing... compression would not be a bad thing to test... but have a leakdown done first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys. I read how to do a leak down, have a compressor here at home, but where can I get a tester. Would Auto Zone have one? I guess I could call.

Also as for the leak where the spark plug is. I cant find how to fix that in my manual. Any ideas?
 

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Personaly I think it's the oil but I have to ask you a stupid question. O.k. don't take this the wrong way but do you know that your car takes 6 qts( assuming you got a S type)? If you low 2 1/2 qts that's a little crazy. I run Mobil One and I have some issues with consumption especialy in the summer but I'll add a quart about every 2-2,5K miles. How long do you go between oil changes? i change mine every 5K miles so I'll use about 2qts inbetween changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
No offense taken. I have always put in 5 quarts like the manual says (yes I have a type S) and it has gotton better since I switched back. My last oil change was about 800-1k miles ago. When I put the new oil in the oil lvl was right below the top circle on the dip stick, now its right at the bottom circle. I change my oil around every 4-5k miles. Also I sitll have black smoke coming out my exhaust sometimes which leads me to think something is burning.

Believe me, I hope I am being paranoid and retarded. It cant hurt to do the tests and see how it turns out. Just gott get my hands on a tester and if its all good then that gives me more reason to go boost later in the year.
 

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It wont hurt to do tests for sure. It may lead you to a good conclusion. Keep us posted.

What I've noticed (and I know this has been covered here before) is that the last time I changed the oil with the OEM filter I added a 5qt jug and it was PERFECT at the top dot (after letting it run to get in the filter and then cool down a bit to drain back in the pan while checking for leaks)

This past time Acura was closed and I had to snag a purolator pureone filter... I noticed I wasn't at the top dot till about 5.4qts...

I don't remember but I think the filter may have looked a little bit bigger than OEM but definately not .4 qt bigger!

You may want to check the kind of filter you use though. I'm sure it has something to do with filtering surface area and junk like that... but a fluctuation like that could account for *some* of your oil loss...

Just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just plain ol Fram 7317 oil filters. I need a leakdown tester so I will order one from Summit Racing this week. I will definatly keep it updated. And I guess I need to just go buy new o-rings from the valve cover. Everyone says the oil is coming from the top so I will give that a shot. Thanks all.
 

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Sounds like your definately running rich. Check to see if the PCV valve isn't stuck open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I checked the PCV valve, like the manual says. I pinched the hose while running and did not hear any clicking coming from it like I was supposed to. I just pulled it wiped it down and was able to see part of a spring in the inlet section of the valve. Would that indicate its bad?

As for running rich, here is a datalog I did a while back. http://hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5750 (since I can not upload kmanager files)

I was having problems with choking (like I was getting no air intake) which is almost non-existant now. I was not able to recreate the problem during the datalog but maybe you can see if I am running to rich or lean?
 

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Bossin
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Yeah shake the pcv valve. If you dont here anything then its stuck. You should hear a little rattle. A stuck PCV valve can draw some oil mist and gases into your engine causing you to run rich. Its a cheap and easy fix so it wouldnt hurt to replace it.
 
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