Acura RSX, ILX and Honda EP3 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
im not sure if this should go in the DIY or EXTERIOR...so i've decided to learn how to paint to save on those expensive shop estimates. i've recently got mugen sideskirts and mugen rear lip from a member on here and it's just been sitting in my living room (no room in the garage) gathering dust. so for the past couple or weeks to months i've been doing research. reading on articles. studying how to videos. even buying a book with instructional DVD on painting a car. i've completed the book and now im just asking for any advice from CRSX.


a little background story... in the past i've tried the shitty method of paint - by spray paint. and everything turn out horrible. paint wasn't match. orange peel. paint drips/runs. everything was over all shit. but like they all say. you get what you pay for. and this time i've learned my lesson and i'm not taking anymore shortcuts.

so far on my list of thing i need to get...

HVLP spray gun
2-5hp air compressor
orbital sander or air sander
polisher/buffer
body filler/puddy
misc. sand blocks (long sand block/small sand blocks)
misc. sand paper (80/220/400/1500/etc.)
degresser/cleaner/denature alcohol
face mask/gloves
lacquer thinner/paint thinnner
measuring cup for paint
quart primer and harder
quart basecoat and stabillzer
quart clearcoat and hardener


is there any advise/tips/tricks/self-experience anyone could give me on how to paint? and any recommendation on where to get paint?

thanks guys.


UPDATE on PAGE 2
 

·
Engineering
Joined
·
25,578 Posts
guess it depends on how well you rattle can, because when i did my bike it came out great. only advice i can give is to shoot a test piece first; this way, all your mistakes are done on the test piece and not on the actual thing you're painting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Get a good spray gun, gravity feed from the top. research your paint, primers, and how to mix them. different undercoats / primers can change how the color comes out on top, painting rims should require an etching primer, if you are painting directly to the metal and not over a coating. Practice shooting the paint first, the better your coat comes out the less finishing work you will have to do. Have fun , I took my time, and my Meyers Manx buggy came out great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
okay cool thanks guys. i am really looking forward to start painting.

but anybody know a place to order paint? i called my local sherwin williams and i was quoted around $250 for quart of primer, quart of base, and quart of clear.
 

·
Engineering
Joined
·
25,578 Posts
paints expensive, you can try tcpglobal.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
paint is pretty straight foward, there are different reducers (slow, medium, fast) all depend on what the ambient temperature. slow is used for hot weather, medium for when its in the 70s, and fast for when its cold around 55 degrees. anything colder you shouldnt be painting anyway.

as for primers, use a good 2k urethane primer for maximum adhesion and flexibility.
finish sanding the primer with 400-500 grit sandpaper. tack off the whole job to remove the sanding dust.

basecoats are very flexible by themselves so you dont HAVE to add a flex agent like "bulldog" over lap 50% of the previous pass of base...let each coat "flash" off between coats about 10minutes.

clear, you wanna lay on medium wet coats, i lay it on as thick as possible without running and it come out like f'ing glass :thumbsup: which saves you having to sand and compound out the "orange peel" and runs.

Play with what ever gun you get, get a gallon of lacquer thinner and a peice of cardboard and adjust the fan pattern of the gun so it is a oval shape like this "()"... lacquer thinner is cheap so its better than using ur paint to get the pattern down and you need it to clean the gun out after.....

o and you forgot to get DESICCANTS...which remove the moisture from the air......you want your first desiccant as far from the compressor as possible as hot air hold moisture, this will give the air time to cool and release the moisture for the dessicant to collect. and a secondary desiccant at the base of your gun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
also as stated above most basecoats label what "value shade" of primer to use... aka white, light grey, dark grey, black......with "DuPont" paints lower the value shade the lighter the primer vise versa

anymore questions let me know:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks strongisland your information was really helpful!!!

another question is with the plastic adhesive. do i just spray on the the adhesive on the plastic and let it dry. then primer? or is there a special method or something. i've been confused about that.

also when applying base or clear. how long should i wait until i start to sand out the drips/runs? and with what grit? and would it be fine to apply clearcoat right after sanding the basecoat or do i need to apply another basecoat first?

thanks!
 

·
Engineering
Joined
·
25,578 Posts
you spray the adhesive first, then your primer. follow the instructions on letting the adhesive promotor flash (dry). it depends on the base/clear, but i wait for a full 24 hrs to cure before doing any wet sanding. you don't have to wet sand between every coat unless you really want it to look super good. wetsand primer with 320-400 grit for solid colors and 600 grit for metallics. if you choose to wet sand your base coat, start with 600 grit and then move up to 1000 grit. 1 pass along the piece. you should always do 2-3 light coats, just enough to "hide" what's underneath. for the clear coat, do 1 light coat, wait for it to fully cure (20min) then do full, wet coats. again, i'd wait a day before continuing to wetsand. to wetsand clear, use 1000, 1500, 2000 grit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
you spray the adhesive first, then your primer. follow the instructions on letting the adhesive promotor flash (dry). it depends on the base/clear, but i wait for a full 24 hrs to cure before doing any wet sanding. you don't have to wet sand between every coat unless you really want it to look super good. wetsand primer with 320-400 grit for solid colors and 600 grit for metallics. if you choose to wet sand your base coat, start with 600 grit and then move up to 1000 grit. 1 pass along the piece. you should always do 2-3 light coats, just enough to "hide" what's underneath. for the clear coat, do 1 light coat, wait for it to fully cure (20min) then do full, wet coats. again, i'd wait a day before continuing to wetsand. to wetsand clear, use 1000, 1500, 2000 grit.

thanks man.. this really helped a lot. im looking forward to start my project now. thanks for everyone's help. i appreciate it.

and one last question. with polishing and buffing. i'm suppose to wet sand the clear with 2000 grit. then buff/polish with different compounds. correct?
 

·
Engineering
Joined
·
25,578 Posts
yes, use a rubbing compound and a polishing compound. don't wax though for 60 days to let everything air out of the clearcoat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
okay coool. thank you to everyone. ill feel a lot more confident to paint now. what is left is to buy all my materials. i was thinking of automotivetouchup.com - quart of 2 part primer, quart of oem matched basecoat (no mixing), quart of 2 part clearcoat, respirator mask, dusk mask, quart of body filler, few tack cloths for under around $200 and some change. i still need to get bunch of sandpapers and sandblocks and a spray gun with compressor but ill just buy all the stuff locally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I did some spray painting myself (small job compared to yours). Did just one side view mirror. The paint was from www.touchuppaintonline.com and it matched perfectly. The thing is I didn't use a spray gun, just a can. I don't think they sell paint by the quart though, but you should check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
kinda stupid question but does the oem match paint include pearl in it or will i have to buy pearl separately somewhere else. sorry i ran across a DIY painting thread and this guy said pearl make your white, whiter. blue, bluer. etc. and he was spraying it on his basecoat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
671 Posts
kinda stupid question but does the oem match paint include pearl in it or will i have to buy pearl separately somewhere else. sorry i ran across a DIY painting thread and this guy said pearl make your white, whiter. blue, bluer. etc. and he was spraying it on his basecoat?
if the shop mix the paint for you, the pearl will show once you clearcoat it.
 

·
DIYer
Joined
·
1,506 Posts
well frm wat i know its always gunna be harder to shoot it seprately. better to have them reduce it and mix it. just my 2 cents
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
okay guys i've ordered my paint.

bought an hvlp kit (3 guns)

bought misc tools like sanders. polishers.

tons of sandpaper.

misc item such as bondo. masks. cleaners.

total was around $500 and i didnt even buy my compressor yet!!

anyways is a 21 gallon 3-5 hp compressor ideal for painting misc parts like bumpers?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
I paint a lot, it does not matter on what size compressor you got honestly. Get the one with the HIGHEST CFM Rating. THE HIGHEST YOU CAN GET! Those cost $$ but if you don't then you're gonna be sitting and waiting for your compressor to recharge.

Bondo is a bad body filler, use a higher quality one like U-Pol/Evercoat, and etc.

Also, depends what brand gun you buy will determine how the outcome will look. Honestly, it doesn't matter to me. Harbor Freight guns work great, I just go back and wetsand any imperfections and buff it out. The paint NEEDS to be finished or else it won't look as good as it should be! Use a good compound, and a wool pad.

Make sure you prep properly or you'll have hairline cracks and crap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
update: i've finish sanding my lip kit and repaired (with body filler) my rear bumper. i got everything needed for paint. all the tools. paint came from automotivetouchup.com but its freezing cold over here so won't be able to paint until the weather get warmer.

but anyways. i want to under go a project of molding my previous rear lip to my other rear bumper. i had a mugen rear before with horrible fitment and bought an extra rear bumper (for $40 local). anyways could i just use body filler to mold it on with reinforcements such as drilling into the bumper or do i have to use the fiberglass method?
 

·
Program VietNow...Vexed
Joined
·
619 Posts
kudos on everything, I have been researching and reading everything i can before i paint my entire car a new color. Door jams and trunk jams is as far as im going (not engine bay)

some things i have learned in the past few weeks i was surprised about is
- harbor freight tools spray guns suck for good quality work even their spendy one
SATA JET 3000 and + is way better

-PPG Paint is the better paint to go with for these kinds of projects.

-Bake your car (or body pieces) if you can before taking them out of the paint booth and into the weather. This is particularly important for those that live in colder climates like I do (northwest)

Good luck, and I will be doing a big write up of my paint job as well.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top