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Discussion Starter #1
I want to rebuild my K20Z1. Either an OEM rebuild to factory specs, or stock rod/dc5r piston OEM rebuild. Going full aftermarket isn't an option.

Can guys who have had engines rebuilt post up what was done and how much you paid?

Do I bring them the pistons/rods/gaskets/etc. and I only pay for them to assemble? Or do I let them source the parts and pay a surcharge but they take care of everything? My initial thought was just drop off the motor and have them tear it apart but I'm trying to gauge how much this will cost before I waste the machine shop's time

Motor was pulled at 130k with a slight rod knock. Nothing crazy no holes no leaking oil/coolant. I tossed in a k24a2 so the Z1 has been sitting. I'm boosted running a small Gt28r. Just want a reliable block on e85. And to be honest, I miss the RPM's. The tq is great but I miss the 8K+ shifting

Any and all helped is appreciated thanks
 

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What you're asking is rather broad and the title is misleading.

- typically a machine shop does not assemble engines however some do.

- typically a shop who assembles a motor, has minimal machines for machine work. However again, some do.

-Most machine shops charge about $15-$20 per cylinder for a basic hone.

- most machine shops charge about $45-55 for a resurface of the head or block

- most Machine shops charge about $120-$140 for an align bore

What you need to realize is you're rebuilding an engine to stock specs. Align bore Is not needed. A normal hone will be fine. A very light surface job can be done (only if needed). A very generic piston to wall clearance will be utilized in a stock spec build. You can purchase A-C sized pistons to match the bore. A piston will be the smallest, C piston would be the largest and I bet you have caught on to the size that piston B would be. Heads and valve trains don't typically take much of a beating when utilizing stock parts. A basic head rebuild would cost around $300.

- it seems that you are not very knowledgeable when it comes to this sickest but that's okay. Engines can be very confusing to the average person. Your best bet is to call a shop and discuss everything with them. Ask them what parts you will need to bring, what they will source themselves, what type of warranty they offer, and of course the total cost.

To answer your big question as easily as possible, expect about $1,500 for parts and labor for the engine rebuild if you retain stock spec. Take the shop everything you've got.
 

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Just a heads up. I paid golden eagle $330 to torque plate hone my block and step deck machine it. Both processes are done for high horsepower builds.

Torque plate hone: a plate is placed on the block prior to the honing process. This is to battle against cylinder warp as once the head is removed from the block, the block twists and distorts the cylinder alignment.

Step deck: the deck of the block is machined 3 thousandths lower than the cylinder surface. This is to protect against head gasket failure in high boost applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Rush: thanks for the reply.

I apologize for the mix up. I have two options here in the Chicagoland area to have my engine rebuilt. Both are reputable engine builders. I was just trying to get an idea of what to expect to have my motor rebuilt. All your info pretty much answered my questions. Thanks again

I'm hoping to reuse as many parts as possible Ex. My rods pistons crank block etc. I know I'm going to have to purchase a new rod and possibly a piston. Not sure how bad I hurt the motor. And obvuiosly I will be running all new Honda gaskets and bearings.

My end goal will be around 350-400whp. On e85 and maxing out that small gt28r. Should I consider CSS ? Or are those power figures achievable on basically a stock motor?

Thanks again
 

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Rush: thanks for the reply.

I apologize for the mix up. I have two options here in the Chicagoland area to have my engine rebuilt. Both are reputable engine builders. I was just trying to get an idea of what to expect to have my motor rebuilt. All your info pretty much answered my questions. Thanks again

I'm hoping to reuse as many parts as possible Ex. My rods pistons crank block etc. I know I'm going to have to purchase a new rod and possibly a piston. Not sure how bad I hurt the motor. And obvuiosly I will be running all new Honda gaskets and bearings.

My end goal will be around 350-400whp. On e85 and maxing out that small gt28r. Should I consider CSS ? Or are those power figures achievable on basically a stock motor?

Thanks again

i can tell you from experience that if you had a bearing failure, you MUST replace the heat exchanger. it is the piece that the oil filter screws onto. it acts as an oil cooler when the engine is warm and acts as an oil heater as the engine warms up. the strategy is to get the oil to operating temp as soon as possible and maintain that same temperature range within a certain percentage of efficiency.

350-400whp is obtainable on a stock block. there are several guys here on the forums as well as local guys making well over 400 and some making 500+ on a stock block. how long will it last at 500? who knows. thats a lot of stress on the stock hyperutectic piston. for the purposes of this reply, we'll round your power goal to 380whp. the engine should hold fine at this power level given the tune is good! you can build a motor to hold 1,000whp and it will eat itself alive at 400whp with a bad tune. detonation, pre ignition, and excessive intake air temperatures are a nightmare for an engine.

if you had a bearing failure, the crank will need to be replaced as well as the corresponding rod that had the bearing failure. if the crank is only slightly damaged then you can have it machined and run a larger bearing on that one journal. wether it is cost effective to do this, will be unknown till you get a price on machining the crank. personally, i would replace the crank. a used but good crank should be a good fit for your build.

as for the "css" you should be plenty fine on the stock sleeves. i am using the stock sleeves on my build right now which will be at 500-550whp. they say the stock sleeves are good for 600. again, the stock sleeves would hold 700 with a good tune!

just for education: the reason you sleeve a motor is because cylinder pressures. the more boost you run, the higher your cylinder compression is on the combustion stroke. you have to keep in mind that cylinder pressures diminish heavily as the piston travels down. many engines see a cylinder pressure of 2,000 psi (might be more but i am forgetful.) this is a lot of pressure from such a small structure like a cylinder which is only roughly 7-8mm thick. when a pre ignition occurs, the cylinder pressure can spike to 20,000psi which obviously will crack the cylinder. most cylinders crack in the upper portion of the sleeve. typically 1" from the top. this is where the cylinder pressures are at their max. what im getting at is, the K sleeves are quite strong. but they will never be strong enough to handle a bad tune. this is why im stressing about a good tune.

im sorry if i leave so much information in a single reply. but i try to make my posts very worthwhile with education, facts, and my own knowledge. i also try to cover all the bases so people using the search function can find answers without needing to post a thread about it.


last thing to add, E85 is your best friend. it has a much better cooling ability when compared to gas. i recently melted a piston on my supercharged k20a2 at only 320whp. i have a feeling had i been on E85, that piston may have not been subject to that extreme heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rush: your responses have been very informative. Thank you very much for chiming in

I will definitely be getting tuned once the car is back together. Purchasing Kpro was one of my first mods. A good dyno tune is a must, especially with forced induction

I will look into a new heat exchanger. Are they expensive?
 

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the average is about $160. prices are ranging from $135-$190. the correct term is "heat exchanger" but not many results show up on google with that term. im getting better results by using the term "oem oil cooler". DO NOT buy a used one!!! i know it may seem like a great place to save money but that is something that can ruin your new motor. like quickly! not even a good ultra sonic cleaning will clean out a heat exchanger well enough to re-use.
 

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I had my z1 rebuilt at 90k for a slight rod knock. I ended up rebuilding the whole motor but with race or stronger accents like the head studs race bearings, rings etc. I couldn't afford a full aftermarket so I just made sure my motor was stronger.

hot tank, honed, and cleaned up the block
shaved 5lbs off of the crank, and balanced it
fixed one rod that had a little heat to it.

resurfaced the head
added polished valves they were laying around so why not
match ported my rbc and cut the manifold to fit my head
and a few other things. I dropped off the longblock and picked it up ready to drop in.

the only issue I had was for whatever reason the oil pump failed and the motor needed to be rebuilt again. he covered it 100% and its been running like a champ and going on 15k. I recently tuned at 238/172 with bolt ons.

I paid 2400 for everything but if you're doing the block only, a legit price would probably be like 900
 
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