Rush: thanks for the reply.
I apologize for the mix up. I have two options here in the Chicagoland area to have my engine rebuilt. Both are reputable engine builders. I was just trying to get an idea of what to expect to have my motor rebuilt. All your info pretty much answered my questions. Thanks again
I'm hoping to reuse as many parts as possible Ex. My rods pistons crank block etc. I know I'm going to have to purchase a new rod and possibly a piston. Not sure how bad I hurt the motor. And obvuiosly I will be running all new Honda gaskets and bearings.
My end goal will be around 350-400whp. On e85 and maxing out that small gt28r. Should I consider CSS ? Or are those power figures achievable on basically a stock motor?
Thanks again
i can tell you from experience that if you had a bearing failure, you MUST replace the heat exchanger. it is the piece that the oil filter screws onto. it acts as an oil cooler when the engine is warm and acts as an oil heater as the engine warms up. the strategy is to get the oil to operating temp as soon as possible and maintain that same temperature range within a certain percentage of efficiency.
350-400whp is obtainable on a stock block. there are several guys here on the forums as well as local guys making well over 400 and some making 500+ on a stock block. how long will it last at 500? who knows. thats a lot of stress on the stock hyperutectic piston. for the purposes of this reply, we'll round your power goal to 380whp. the engine should hold fine at this power level given the tune is good! you can build a motor to hold 1,000whp and it will eat itself alive at 400whp with a bad tune. detonation, pre ignition, and excessive intake air temperatures are a nightmare for an engine.
if you had a bearing failure, the crank will need to be replaced as well as the corresponding rod that had the bearing failure. if the crank is only slightly damaged then you can have it machined and run a larger bearing on that one journal. wether it is cost effective to do this, will be unknown till you get a price on machining the crank. personally, i would replace the crank. a used but good crank should be a good fit for your build.
as for the "css" you should be plenty fine on the stock sleeves. i am using the stock sleeves on my build right now which will be at 500-550whp. they say the stock sleeves are good for 600. again, the stock sleeves would hold 700 with a good tune!
just for education: the reason you sleeve a motor is because cylinder pressures. the more boost you run, the higher your cylinder compression is on the combustion stroke. you have to keep in mind that cylinder pressures diminish heavily as the piston travels down. many engines see a cylinder pressure of 2,000 psi (might be more but i am forgetful.) this is a lot of pressure from such a small structure like a cylinder which is only roughly 7-8mm thick. when a pre ignition occurs, the cylinder pressure can spike to 20,000psi which obviously will crack the cylinder. most cylinders crack in the upper portion of the sleeve. typically 1" from the top. this is where the cylinder pressures are at their max. what im getting at is, the K sleeves are quite strong. but they will never be strong enough to handle a bad tune. this is why im stressing about a good tune.
im sorry if i leave so much information in a single reply. but i try to make my posts very worthwhile with education, facts, and my own knowledge. i also try to cover all the bases so people using the search function can find answers without needing to post a thread about it.
last thing to add, E85 is your best friend. it has a much better cooling ability when compared to gas. i recently melted a piston on my supercharged k20a2 at only 320whp. i have a feeling had i been on E85, that piston may have not been subject to that extreme heat.
