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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I was dropping off money at my friend's house and we were chit chatting about my turbo. He owns his own business (CP Performance) and I was talking about how I needed the Symantec Missing link. He said he had 6 in his house so I bought one.

Later on I looked at it and it didnt include my car in the application list on the label.

Question: Will this work on my car?


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nevermind... went to the website.

Luckily they have one for the RSX. I'll just get in contact with my boy and do an exchange.

Anybody looking for a discount on these should contact me. He gets them and I'm sure he'll sell them for a couple bucks off.

http://www.synapseengineering.com/html/ml004.html
 

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What exactly does a missing link do? I can't read the picture its too blurry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
"The Missing Link is designed to compliment the Factory MAP Sensor and interpret the air pressure readings. Your Engine will Perform better with proper fuel ratios and smoother acceleration transition - from Vacuum to Boost. The Missing Link eliminates troublesome MAP Sensor check engine lights and protects the Map Sensor from premature failure, which can result in engine damage. Engineered for Superior performance (compared to Fish Tank Check-Valves), the Missing Link is easy to install and reduces engine bay clutter."
 

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It works. Im using it on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah it wasnt a question of wether or not It would function on my car. I was wondering if that particular one I have is going to be compatable with mine. It had prelude/civic/B18 integras, so you know K and B series are all different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey you guys with turbos.

I was talking to my boy this morning and he was telling me about an alternative to tapping the oil pan. He said theres some kind of adaptor I can use that'll let me get oil from where the Oil Filter screws in. You screw the adaptor in first and the filter after.

Sounds like a good idea, anybody have that installed on their car?
 

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Randeezle said:
Hey you guys with turbos.

I was talking to my boy this morning and he was telling me about an alternative to tapping the oil pan. He said theres some kind of adaptor I can use that'll let me get oil from where the Oil Filter screws in. You screw the adaptor in first and the filter after.

Sounds like a good idea, anybody have that installed on their car?
Ive never heard of that before, it sounds like a good idea though. WOuld have saved me some time.
 

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the hardest part was just dropping the frame and getting the pan actually off the block. There is a liquid gasket on there. I had to pry it off, it took about a hour total just for the gasket. I took it to a shop to get the tap done. it only cost 30 dollars and it hasnt leaked since.
 

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Randeezle said:
Good lawd. Good thing I'm having somebody else install my kit.
Come on dude! ITs fun! Besides, i know what goes wrong now if something happens.
 

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the JRSC kit came with one of these types of "missing link" thingys... i didnt hook it up right the first time and car couldnt boost properly. It would try to boost and then just cut out... it was terrible.
Once i got it rigged up right all was well in supercharged RSX land. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was checking out my engine bay today and found the map sensor. It's probably gonna be the easiest thing to install that i have:laughing:

From what I see, you just unscrew the map sensor, pop the Missing link in and screw the map sensor on top of the Missing link.
 

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punkdrum4ever1 said:
the hardest part was just dropping the frame and getting the pan actually off the block. There is a liquid gasket on there. I had to pry it off, it took about a hour total just for the gasket. I took it to a shop to get the tap done. it only cost 30 dollars and it hasnt leaked since.
$30?!?!....damn it boy. Its easiest to take out the front subframe bolts and loosen the back ones. then you should be able to get the pan out with having to drop the entire subframe. Also, take you your front bottom motor mount and the pan should come out fairly eaisly. I took a 8mm drill bit and drilled a pilot hole in the oil pan then took a 1.25" (i think) hole drill and drilled in it. Tighented up the nut on the other side and put a little hondabond around it and no problem at all. Also, this way you dont have to worry about stripping the hole out if for some reason you have to take it off.
 
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