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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For starters here is my current motor setup:
K24A1 Block, Supertech 88mm 12.5:1 Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, K20 Type-S Oil Pump, K20a2 Type S Oil Pan, Hybrid Racing Tensioner, Cometic Head Gasket,
ARP Head Studs, K20a2 Head (Ported by ASP Headers), Ceramic DCRH, IPS K2 Cams
Supertech Beehive Valvesprings & Retainers, Supertech Valves & Valve Guides, Drag Cartel Exhaust Cam Gear, RBC Manifold Cut and Ported by ASP Headers,
K-Tuned Billet Hall Effect TPS Sensor, Hondata IM Gasket, Karcepts RBC Throttle Body Adapter, Hybrid Racing Thermal Throttle Body Gasket, RDX 410cc Injectors,
Hasport Motor Mounts, Innovative Front Motor Mount, Custom 3" exhaust w/ vibrant resonator and k-tuned muffler, DC5R Tranny w/ TSX 6th Gear, Exedy Stage 2 Clucth Kit
Exedy Racing Chromolly Lightened Flywheel. K-Pro v4

I have been running a conservative street tune from Joe at LoCash Racing up in Tempe, AZ, redline is set to 9k rpm. I have been driving it with 0 problems since the motor was built 2500 miles ago. I have changed the oil 4 times, using Valvoline Racing 10w30. I was on my way to work last week and I started to hear what sounded like a knocking noise. As I was pulling into my work parking lot the oil pressure dropped to 0. So I quickly shut it down. About an hour later, I came out to try to start it and it acted a bit like the battery was drained a bit, the starter dragging a bit, but then fired up, and to my horror the knocking was louder... Here is a video of me starting it and the noise...

Here, just put the video on youtube: https://youtu.be/i72ZD9bf580



I took of the valve cover this morning, and everything in the head is perfect. Pulled the injectors, completely dry with no oil on them at all. Timing chain and tensioner are both intact and fine.

My suspicions are that I spun a rod bearing. If this is the case, can I just pull off the oil pan, and swap out the bearings slap it back together, and be on my way? Or is there usually more to it than that?

If this is usually a lot of work and money intensive, would it be a better idea to just grab another K24 block and swap the block out?

If this is the case I am thinking of pulling my Pauter Forged Rods, and Supertech pistons from my current block and selling them. Then leaving the OEM rods and pistons in the new block for the lower compression, and BOOSTING IT!

I am looking for any info or help from anyone that has spun a rod bearing and had to fix it. Anyone think that running my current setup the way I was, maybe the Type S oil pump wasn't able to keep everything oiled well enough up to 9k RPM? I am also really looking for info on how much of a pain it is to swap the rod bearings, (to push me towards a new block, and boosting my car).

Thank you in advance for your help!
 

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I sure hope who ever did the motor assembly measured the bearing clearance for both the rods and crank journals.
 

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Can't see the video, but I spun a rod bearing in my k20a2 on my previous setup. It was after a couple WOT pulls and the next day, I heard faint knocking. Didn't think much of it at first but got progressively worse to the point I shut down and towed home.

BL: everything else was fine (luckily) and one bearing failed. No damage to the block, but I had no idea. As mentioned above, you had a lot of work done, so hopefully the installer was thorough and checked​ tolerances during install
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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I sure hope who ever did the motor assembly measured the bearing clearance for both the rods and crank journals.
I am not 100% sure, but the shop is a very highly respected shop out here. Companies like HASport, FullRace, Vivid Racing, and a few others use them for motor builds. I will call tomorrow morning and ask. Also, I had sourced the OEM rod bearings to give them, and he had suggested to me that they wouldn't handle what I was wanting to do, so he ordered and installed ACL Race bearings for me.

Can't see the video, but I spun a rod bearing in my k20a2 on my previous setup. It was after a couple WOT pulls and the next day, I heard faint knocking. Didn't think much of it at first but got progressively worse to the point I shut down and towed home.

BL: everything else was fine (luckily) and one bearing failed. No damage to the block, but I had no idea. As mentioned above, you had a lot of work done, so hopefully the installer was thorough and checked​ tolerances during install
I am praying that this is the case with my car. I really don't want to go through building a motor again, at least this soon...

Quick question, when it was just the bearing, did you just drop the oil pan, disconnect the rod, slap the bearing on, then put it back together and run it? Or did you need to have anything machined?

Thank you very much guys! I am going to try a different hosting site for the video. Tiny-Pic seems to really suck!
 

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If you spin a bearing crank is done. Needs to be resized if possible and check can holders and cams. Probably a big contamination.. trash the motor for 400-500 you can get a new used one at the junkyard
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you spin a bearing crank is done. Needs to be resized if possible and check can holders and cams. Probably a big contamination.. trash the motor for 400-500 you can get a new used one at the junkyard
This is exactly what I was afraid to hear. Oh well, now I get to do a sweet turbo build!

Going to have some awesome NA motor parts for sale soon if anyone is interested. Will most likely start the thread tomorrow! Now to make a shopping list! :hb:
 

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I am praying that this is the case with my car. I really don't want to go through building a motor again, at least this soon...

Quick question, when it was just the bearing, did you just drop the oil pan, disconnect the rod, slap the bearing on, then put it back together and run it? Or did you need to have anything machined?

Thank you very much guys! I am going to try a different hosting site for the video. Tiny-Pic seems to really suck!
I ended up selling the motor as is for the price of the head lol. The person I sold it too sent me updates on the damage. It could have been salvage, but he only needed the head.

If you spin a bearing crank is done. Needs to be resized if possible and check can holders and cams. Probably a big contamination.. trash the motor for 400-500 you can get a new used one at the junkyard
Sound advice here. You never know the extent of the damage and that's what I ended up doing by getting a 06 k24a2 and dropped it in
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, late last night I found out that this is most likely just my oil pump going bad! If this is the case, the next round of drinks is on me!
 

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Any updates?
 
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