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If i have around $7,000 to spend and i want a natural aspirated motor how much h.p would i make?? What mods should i use?? thanks
 

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DragRacerRSX said:
If i have around $7,000 to spend and i want a natural aspirated motor how much h.p would i make?? What mods should i use?? thanks
click on the sticky. it'll tell you. ;)
 

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toda kit (cams, valves/valve springs/, head gasket, connecting rods, pistons, and crank) , mugen ecu, hondata i.m.g., complete race head, custom 2.75 mandrel bent cat-back, spoon axle back, mugen cool air... $7000, this is a decent NA set-up....
 

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typeRwithouttheR said:
toda kit (cams, valves/valve springs/, head gasket, connecting rods, pistons, and crank) , mugen ecu, hondata i.m.g., complete race head, custom 2.75 mandrel bent cat-back, spoon axle back, mugen cool air... $7000, this is a decent NA set-up....

you are talking about 240whp to 250whp..... vtec kicks from 5.5k to 9k, shit your back will be sticking to the seat.... i wish i had $7000
 

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Yes remember the search button is your friend. I would say do the bolts ons if you dont already have them (CAI, 2.5in-3in catback exhaust system, toda or comptech race header, IMG) and purchase the new k-pro ems. Then I would say put the rest of the money in the bank and leave it there until some really good cams come out. Hopefully edo's will come out soon. Toda cams are great but there is much more power waiting to be found in the cams of the K-series. Then i would suggest some valve train upgrades (springs and retainers, and then a 2.2-2.3L sleeved block from IB. Since you get to pick your compression and bore it can be very verstile and meant any ones needs. For the street you should be okay with up to a 12:1 wiht good gas and good tuning. If its an all race motor i would say 13:1 or more would be you best bet. If you dont have the bolt ons its gonna cost more than 7k, but you might be close to it if you already have the basics.


TypeRwithoutthetypeR, It would not be a good idea to use toda pistons with the mugen ecu as the ecu is not tuned for the high compression ratio, besides the Toda kit comes with a reflash anyway that is specific for their cams. The tune on the mugen ecu was done for type r cams. Also there you be no way to use a 2.75in catback with the spoon axleback. You could have custom 2.75in b-pipe made and attach the spoon axle back to it but it would be pointless because the spoon axle back is only 60.5mm and also necks down at the flange to mate with the stock exhaust. This you hurt alot of the gains from the exhuast system. It would be much smarter to just by a system the is 65mm( aproxx. 2.5in) that maintains that diameter all the way back or do a custom one that is larger that also maintains the larger diameter without necking down. Also on a mugen airbox you not gonna see the same gains as with a CAI. IT simply wasnt designed for all out power. It was desinged for circut racing and this is evident in the design(throttle response, no chance of hydrolock). It was also designed to work best inconjunction with the mugen bumper. So for a drag motor it wouldnt be your best option. Even with the new N2 cams and the setup you described you would be lucky too make 240whp dynapack, and you certainly wouldnt do it on the dynojet.
 

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Bluewind said:
One word, "HYTECH" (God has spoken)
I've lurked here enough to have read more than one post from you bashing American made products, while espousing JDM companies. Yet here you are calling yourself God, touting a vapor-ware American made engine kit.

Since the Hytech engine kit has never been sold, and as of today's date is not available, I am surprised that you didn't recommend Japanese :bow: aftermarket products that currently are available for purchase.
 

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thatguywiththersx said:
Yes remember the search button is your friend. I would say do the bolts ons if you dont already have them (CAI, 2.5in-3in catback exhaust system, toda or comptech race header, IMG) and purchase the new k-pro ems. Then I would say put the rest of the money in the bank and leave it there until some really good cams come out. Hopefully edo's will come out soon. Toda cams are great but there is much more power waiting to be found in the cams of the K-series. Then i would suggest some valve train upgrades (springs and retainers, and then a 2.2-2.3L sleeved block from IB. Since you get to pick your compression and bore it can be very verstile and meant any ones needs. For the street you should be okay with up to a 12:1 wiht good gas and good tuning. If its an all race motor i would say 13:1 or more would be you best bet. If you dont have the bolt ons its gonna cost more than 7k, but you might be close to it if you already have the basics.


TypeRwithoutthetypeR, It would not be a good idea to use toda pistons with the mugen ecu as the ecu is not tuned for the high compression ratio, besides the Toda kit comes with a reflash anyway that is specific for their cams. The tune on the mugen ecu was done for type r cams. Also there you be no way to use a 2.75in catback with the spoon axleback. You could have custom 2.75in b-pipe made and attach the spoon axle back to it but it would be pointless because the spoon axle back is only 60.5mm and also necks down at the flange to mate with the stock exhaust. This you hurt alot of the gains from the exhuast system. It would be much smarter to just by a system the is 65mm( aproxx. 2.5in) that maintains that diameter all the way back or do a custom one that is larger that also maintains the larger diameter without necking down. Also on a mugen airbox you not gonna see the same gains as with a CAI. IT simply wasnt designed for all out power. It was desinged for circut racing and this is evident in the design(throttle response, no chance of hydrolock). It was also designed to work best inconjunction with the mugen bumper. So for a drag motor it wouldnt be your best option. Even with the new N2 cams and the setup you described you would be lucky too make 240whp dynapack, and you certainly wouldnt do it on the dynojet.


the spoon axle back is just for the looks, if i go on track, i run with no axle back at all.... the mugen ecu is tune to go on to 12.5/1 compression ratio....
 

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maybe the best is to do a itr k20a swap $5800.... cai $200.... high flow cat, and custom full cat-back with no resonator $400.... than do hondata ecu for the type-r motor....
 

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test proven k20a with hondata alone makes about 208whp.... so my guess is with all this other mods, it would be around 215-225whp depending on the temp that day...
 

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i think its kinda ghetto to run with no axle back and even then its still gonna neck down at the flange. And the mugen ecu is not tuned for the 12.5:1 comp ration of the toda pistons (12.9 with the gasket). Its tune is for the 11.5:1 of the stock type r. For 1g you could buy the fully tunabla k pro anyway. Its pointless to buy a type r motor esp. if you are going to swap the rods,pistons,and cams you anyway.
 

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thatguywiththersx said:
i think its kinda ghetto to run with no axle back and even then its still gonna neck down at the flange. And the mugen ecu is not tuned for the 12.5:1 comp ration of the toda pistons (12.9 with the gasket). Its tune is for the 11.5:1 of the stock type r. For 1g you could buy the fully tunabla k pro anyway. Its pointless to buy a type r motor esp. if you are going to swap the rods,pistons,and cams you anyway.


yea, you are right about the motor swap.... just get toda engine kit with n2 reflash and i.h.e... toda tested it, and it ran 229.5whp.... for the mugen ecu, ep3ctr was talking about the programable one, thats why ep3ctr say it can be tune up to 12.5/1 compression ratio not tune for 12.5/1....
 

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As far as i know no version of the mugen ecu is programable, at least any that are availible to the public. Contact kingmotorsports for the final word but i`m almost postive they will tell you there isnt. If it was then everyone wouldnt be on the edge of there seats waitin for k-pro to come out.
 

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thats a very broad question. It depends on a lot of factors. ie what type of tires you are running, tire size, suspension mods(mm's, tourque damper, coilovers,ect), weather thats power is at the crank or wheels,gearing, ect. Be more specific if you want a straight answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm going to use probly M.T 22"x8'x15 tires. I will have the tein ss coil overs, and the track temp will be around 85.
 

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well if you drive well and you do manage that 250whp, which wont be easy with the current cams availible( maybe with edo's or skunks) you should see some really good times. It speculation because as far as i know know one has seen such number but i would say low low 13's to high 12's depending on weight, skill, and tuning,and setup.
 

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i would go with the HYTECH. well for one reason i would go with it is you will get the most gains and i dont think alot of people have it so you will get alot of props for it :laughing:

Another reason i would go for one is im sure that HYTECH is better in everyway i mean if you get just the hytech kit your basicly done with mods you really wont need to do anything else :spin: buuuuuutttt i know im going to get someone too reply to this post and say something about my OPINION
 

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Mugen Sports Exhaust system
+
Injen CAI
+
Toda K20 Engine kit + header

= 225whp & 155ft of torque....N/A!!


That right there is a good start and will make your shit a beast. You'd need to upgrade the clutch and tires for this kind of power as well. This will tastefully take care of that 7k when added up.
 
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