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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #1
If you have done enough ep3/dc5 suspensions, you have run into that rear lower shock bolt that will not come out. Everytime I have run into these it is not that the bolt was frozen in the threads, it was frozen in the shock bushing sleeve. You know you have one of these when you can bolt turn about 1/4 turn in each direction.....
The problem is Honda zinc plates the bolts but they do not plate the bushings. The zinc plate reacts with the bushing's sleeve and the two peaces be come one...:(

The kicker to all this is there is no way to get to get PB Blaster to the center of the sleeve to brake these two peaces apart....Thats where my "fix" come in. Get a couple new sharp drill bits that are a little larger than the tubes that come on the PB Blaster and start drilling into the bushing. I drilled into ether side of the top, ether side of the side ( from under the car) and through the shock sleeve its self.....the just insert PB Blaster tube into the holes and shoot the oil in under pressure....and wait.....and reapply.....Mine came loose after about 3 hours.

If you drill holes in the lower bolt, you might want to pick up another one from honda....and remember to grease the the centers of them so if you have to pull them again, you can with out all this work.
 

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LEPRECHAUN HELL YAH!!!
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this is what i had to do to get mine off...thats why musty rules

...had to cut the bottom of the stock shock off so i could remove it from the bushing and then grind through the bushing carefully...



 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The problem is honda zinc plates the bolts and not the steel sleeve of the bushing. One of the reasons zinc plate works as a rust stopper is it sticks to steel. What happens is the zinc on bolt attaches its self to the steel in the sleeve acting like a glue. Penatrating oil can brake that bond but you have to get it into the sleeve for it to work....thus the drilling of the holes.....worked great. 20 minutes of drilling + 3 hours of waiting for the pb blaster to work and it came right out.:weeeeeeeeee:
 

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that would probably work, but I dont really have 3hr's tonight to wait for the pb blaster to work and I wanna get it done tonight. would heating work with the penetrating oil to work it faster? maybe more holes drilled? I've got new shocks and bolts so I could riddle it with holes without problem it that'll help.....
I was originally thinking of just cutting down either side through the sleeve and bolt and extracting the bolt from the threads afterwards, but if drilling will help....
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #11
It all depends on how much and how hard the zinc has glued its self to the bushing sleeve....The car I did this on was a 02 rsx that was bought in aug 2001...thats a 7 year old car with 7 salty winters to freeze things up...

If you are doing the suspension, my advice is you drill and lube the frosen bolts first and do the rest and come back to it....the penatrating oil needs time to work......you could try the new Liquid Wrench....It is supose to have some new "rust eater" stuff in it.....it may work faster:dontknow:
 

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It all depends on how much and how hard the zinc has glued its self to the bushing sleeve....The car I did this on was a 02 rsx that was bought in aug 2001...thats a 7 year old car with 7 salty winters to freeze things up...

If you are doing the suspension, my advice is you drill and lube the frosen bolts first and do the rest and come back to it....the penatrating oil needs time to work......you could try the new Liquid Wrench....It is supose to have some new "rust eater" stuff in it.....it may work faster:dontknow:
this is an '03 and I dont know how long it's had the rear lowering springs on it, but they are junk and are coming off for some rsx-s springs instead. (this is my badroad/dirtroad themed suspension, lots of travel and only slightly stiffer) I may pick up some of that liquid wrench when I hit home depot for drill bits, sawzall blades and nuts for the new bolts (just in case)
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #13
this is an '03 and I dont know how long it's had the rear lowering springs on it, but they are junk and are coming off for some rsx-s springs instead. (this is my badroad/dirtroad themed suspension, lots of travel and only slightly stiffer) I may pick up some of that liquid wrench when I hit home depot for drill bits, sawzall blades and nuts for the new bolts (just in case)
What springs are you getting?....have you lookd at the stickies on spring rates?
 

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What springs are you getting?....have you lookd at the stickies on spring rates?
I have, thats what lead to the RSX type S springs. They are just a bit stiffer than stock springs, should have the same or similar ride height, and are designed by and spec'd by honda as OE springs for the exact same suspension just carrying a heavier load with the RSX-S. I have been grossly discouraged from aftermarket springs after living with the Nuespeed's, one of which actually broke, that came on the car when I bought it. Up front (they have been swapped over to the RSXS springs and GR-2 shocks already) its a really really good ride and I am very pleased.
the car sees very bad and pothole filled roads everyday, and often sees dirt roads. Its a DD and I want it to last a long time and handle a little bit better than what it did, so thats where my choices came from. I also put new tires on, ones designed for good response and grip with a focus on wet grip since this being vermont its rainy a lot, and they are wider and taller, actually fill the wheel well better than the drop did (215/60r15).
 

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well it wont happen tonight since the guy I'm doing it with has a work thing tonight. would drilling just a couple holes, or maybe just one, tonight and driving it a couple days be a bad thing?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #16
well it wont happen tonight since the guy I'm doing it with has a work thing tonight. would drilling just a couple holes, or maybe just one, tonight and driving it a couple days be a bad thing?
drill the heck out of it....just do not drill into the bolt to bad....drilling, lubeing and then driving will help the process....

I drilled 5 holes from under( 2 on each side, one strait, one angles inward and one through the shock loop its self) the car and 2 from the top angled in towards the center. you are trying to get the lube in the center to work on the corrosion...
 

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well that all sounds great but how do I know if I have gotten to the bolt? I'll assume the bolt is harder and more difficult to drill through but will it be that big a difference to tell?
 

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ride height Nazi
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Discussion Starter #18
well that all sounds great but how do I know if I have gotten to the bolt? I'll assume the bolt is harder and more difficult to drill through but will it be that big a difference to tell?
I just tried to pay attension.....the bolt is harder and the drill will slow down....if you hit it, it is not big a deal.....I think honda want a buck or 2 for that bolt.....the sleeve in the bushing spreads out the load over the whole top and bottom of the bolt....if you weaken the bolt a little, I do not think it is that big a deal.
 

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alright I'll I'll give it a try, at least a couple holes for the time being. its gotta last friday and half of monday driving is all I am concerned with, I already have a couple extra bolts. I got the foaming penetrating oil by liquid wrench, maybe it'll stick to any underside holes I drill better. either way I still have a lot of blaster sitting around.
 

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sorry musty, your method didnt work for me, I drilled them ahead of time and some more when we did it, had them soaking overnight, and I am pretty sure I drilled deep enough too. they were still very well welded to the bolt. ripped the welded nut off one side once we cut the shock mount off the shock and it would spin, the other side didnt rip the nut off but I wish it did, it stripped it instead and grinding that nut off is next to impossible considering its location, we could not get a small slice fully ground down, too deep in the pocket and too hard of steel. all in all we killed a grinding wheel, a cutoff wheel, 3 sawzall blades, 2 diegrinder bits, 3 chisels, a prybar, and a whole can of penetrating oil.
I'm glad I picked up some grade 8 nuts to fit the shock bolt since we had to cut everything apart and it was just nasty and mean and pretty evil.

works nicely now though, all put back together with new shocks all around and rsx-s springs, the rear sits just a touch higher than the front and it looks raked and very nice, corners amazing, though with more bodyroll than before, oh well, I can upgrade sway bars someday if I want to fix that. I'll have a picture posted later today, and also a picture of the nuespeed springs that broke in 2 places on the same spring
 
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