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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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Camera Mount #1

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1. Here's the basic schematic. I know it's not the most efficient design, but it works okay.



2. Buy 3' to 4' of 1" aluminum stock.



3. Cut the 1" aluminum stock into two pieces. Make the longer one about 19" and the other one about 14". Careful, the edges are sharp.



4. Go to your seat and mark with a pencil where you plan to drill the holes. Try to make the hole closer to the sides of your headrest. That way, it's more stable, but careful not to make it too close or the bolts will scratch the pastic. Your first hole should be about 5" from the end closer to the passenger window and the second hole should be about 6" further down the first hole. In my picture, I drilled the first one only 4" down, but I think it should be further down to avoid damaging the leather seat.



5. Drill the holes, carefully. If you have a press drill, use it. I used a hand drill and it was difficult to drill the holes perfectly in-line because I lack the proper tools. After you're done drilling the holes, file down the edges of the holes so your bolts can go through. Furthermore, make sure when you bolts go through, they go in straight (or perpendicular to the aluminum stock).



6. Next, I wrapped hockey tape everywhere so it wouldn't hurt the leather seat as much when we tighten it down. It's still not a good idea to leave the mount on for extended periods, but I figure this might help a little. Besides, you don't want to cut yourself on the edges.

I even applied some hockey tape over the bolts so it wouldn't stratch the pastic on the seat as easily.

Use as many washers and nuts as you see fit. I used 4 washers on the longer aluminum piece; two on each side. I also used 2 nuts to hold the bolts in place.



7. Proceed as planned and attach the window clamp camera mount at the long end. Or you could also use any tripod head or basically just a 1/4" bolt will do if you don't need the flexibility.



8. And you're done. Just put it on the headrest as planned. Use wing nuts (instead of normal nuts as shown in the picture) to tighten your mount to the seat. Notice the bolts are pretty close to the plastic surface, you might want to add more hockey tape, like I did later on, just to be safe.









This is what it looks like from the camera's view:



9. (Optional) Put some shrink tubings on the bolts so it won't scratch your plastic. Or just slip some kind of condoms on top when you are fitting the mount on the seat, and take it off when you put the other piece on it. If you use the shrink tubes like me, make sure the holes on the second piece is big enough for it to go through. Leave some room for the wing nuts. Just slip on the shrink tubes, then heat it with a blow dryer or something.

Update: I find that using the shrink tubes are "condoms" are much easier to deal with. Just slip them on when you're going in, and take it off once you're done. :D (ie. put shrink tubes or anything that you can find over the two bolts, position the mount on the seat, then remove the tubes when you're ready to fit the 2nd piece on top.)




This design is not as rigid as I want it to be, but the camera is pretty light so I'll live. I took the car for a test spin and it looked pretty good. I sure hope they'll let me use this for the next autoX. :)

The total cost of the whole project was $61.73 CAD with taxes. Click here to see the details.

Be warned that I take no responsibility should you decide to follow my instructions. I am willing to provide help, but I am by no means responsible for what happens should you decide to accept my help. Please don't sell my design. This was intended to give car owners with non-adjustable headrests the opportunity to make their own in-car camera mount without spending too much money.

Edit: You may notice some vibrations in the video... I'm guessing it's due to a combination of the play in the design and from the coilovers. I'll try to strap it down further. You may also notice that the schematic is backwards. That's because I later decided to put the long arm in the back.

Update: Added a few more layers of hockey tape over the 6" bolts. Now the mount should fit nicely on the seat even tighter than before.

Now I use a luggage strap belt to help sturdy the mount.

I removed the two video clips that was here before, but you could download better quality ones here:
>>http://www.imagestation.com/members/DC530

You'll need to make a login. Just click on any autox event album and the video should be at the end.



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Camera Mount #2

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I went to Canadian Tires the other day and I decided to try what I've always to...





It's one of those poles you put in your bathroom for hanging up wet laundry or bath curtain or something. It's about $13 or so.

What you do is screw the pole to the right length, plus about 2 inches more. Then compress the pole (it's spring loaded) to fit between where you want it.

That's it. ;)

Then, I just put the window clamp camera mount I got previously.

>>Right click and save as for the clip I recorded in my last autox: http://www.imagestation.com/video/view.html?id=4150561949&dl=1

Sorry about the quality. I know you can't see anything because of the sun, but at least you could tell how good the mount is. I'm not getting as much rattling as I did with the first mount. The "klunking" noise is from the right rear suspension, that I was unable to resolve.

Pro's:
Relatively cheap
Relatively easy to install
Nearly no assembly required, except if you want to strap it down more
You can bring a passenger :)

Con's:
View is not as good
Engine sound not as clear
Camera is out of reach unless you lean back on your seat
Can't see the tachometer or speedometer



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Camera Mount #3 Courtesy of ADAMRSX

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Very simple design. All you need to do is remove a small panel then doing some screwing. :D



Edit:

Added shrink tubes to #1.
Original video removed.
Link added.
Camera Mount #2 added.
Camera Mount #3 added.
 

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Here goes nothing
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That's exactly what I did man! However, I instead used two 90-deg bars in back and a a $2 12" Zinc bar from OSH for the front brace, this way someone can still sit shotty!

I've had problems stabilizing the seat; the harness is tight but the camera still vibrates a lot because the seat is shaking.

Without the passenger it was really shaky. Let me know if you have the same problem with the seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Did you look at my video? There were little vibrations but I guess mine are not as strong as yours because I'm not pushing the car so hard... I keep hearing some crackling noise, but I don't know where it's coming from. I guess most of the vibrations are from my coilovers... but I'm want to stabilize the mount further more... somehow.

Yours look like the camera is moving quite a bit, but again, I guess you are autox'ing. Do you have a picture of your mount?

I'm not having any problems (I don't think) from the vibrations coming from the seats... rather more like from the stiffness of the suspension and from the play with the way I mounted the camera.

Here's my video again.
 

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Ex-Mod
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Good ideas guys. Ive been wanting to find out a way to make an in-car camera mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm thinking of replacing the shorter arm with a flat strip of metal. Maybe then I can have a passenger and still be able to use the mount. I'll post up some pictures once I'm done.
 

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Crazy Cone Chaser
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I thought I would help you guys get rid of that vibration. I used a luggage strap wrapped around vertically of the seat back and around the bar. Helped alot with my setup.
 

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nice writeup. I have that same end part of the camera mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CivicSiRacer said:
I thought I would help you guys get rid of that vibration. I used a luggage strap wrapped around vertically of the seat back and around the bar. Helped alot with my setup.
Hey thanks!

I never thought of strapping it down like that... now I just have to figure out where to strap it to...
 

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Crazy Cone Chaser
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[DC530] said:
Hey thanks!

I never thought of strapping it down like that... now I just have to figure out where to strap it to...
If your seats recline you just put the strap through the space between the back part and the butt part and wrap it around the top of the bar or top of the headrest.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
CivicSiRacer said:
If your seats recline you just put the strap through the space between the back part and the butt part and wrap it around the top of the bar or top of the headrest.
Oh yea...! Thanks. :bow:


TRUENOCOUPE said:
hahahhaha NICE!

You cheap ass. Just buy a camera mount.
It works either way.
Oh shussh! I didn't know it was going to cost this much! lol It's cheaper than any in-car camera mount I could find locally anyway! :tonguegri
 

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Crazy Cone Chaser
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[DC530] said:
Oh yea...! Thanks. :bow:

Oh shussh! I didn't know it was going to cost this much! lol It's cheaper than any in-car camera mount I could find locally anyway! :tonguegri
My incar camera mount for my Civic cost about $20 :) This is definitely a cheaper alternative to the IO Port Racing camera mount especially just for autocrossing.

Now for SoloI you need something better of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
CivicSiRacer said:
My incar camera mount for my Civic cost about $20 :) This is definitely a cheaper alternative to the IO Port Racing camera mount especially just for autocrossing.

Now for SoloI you need something better of course.
Is your headrest non-adjustable as well? If so, I'd like to see it! :cool:
 

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Supreme Overlord
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Where did you get the camera mount you used DC530? I've been to all the AV stores around here and no one has anything similar.

Can you give me a link to a site or something that might have something similar?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looks like you found it, but here's their site anyway:
http://www.kerrisdalecameras.com/store/
Again, it's 32.99 CAD before tax. I couldn't find it on their website, but it was certainly on the shelf when I was there personally.

I think it was a little pricey though. Are you sure you don't want to go find a cheaper one with the same adjustability? You could actually use a bolt if you don't need the adjustability. It'd cost like a few pennies.

You could probably frabricate your own head with a few square brackets and some ingenuity.

If you do decide to get the exact same head, might I suggest you slip a piece of object just underneath where the head sits on the aluminum stock (NOT where the clamp stopper thing is, but on the adjacent faces), so there's no room for play.
 

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Metally Guitarded
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This is way cool, thanks for the write-up, pics and videos...Nice job! :thumbsup:
 
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