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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did my first Solo event and I was impressed with the performance of my Type S. I only have the Hondata 4, the V2, the Mugen suspension and Hoosier tires. Other stuff: Cobalt pads, Stoptech Sloted discs and Goodridge lines.

Super fun to drive, good braking, great tork if you keep the revs and great response overall. The car was really neutral and basically you could do what ever you wanted with it. Will work more with the suspension and will try to make the car a little bit loose in the back. There's not much else I can do because I'am basically at the limit of my class :spin:

The Mugen suspension is the best street/race mod you could do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The tires I used were Hoosiers 215-40-16 with stock rims. At the beginning I was a little scared because everybody goes 17" but with this size I better tork and rpm's. The track we race has short straights so I think this is helping with my setting.

Thoughts anyone :dontknow:
 

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well, If you are trying to squeaze every last bit of perforance out of the car then running the 16s is the right thing to do (As long as they are WIDE)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Zzyzx said:
well, If you are trying to squeaze every last bit of perforance out of the car then running the 16s is the right thing to do (As long as they are WIDE)
Thanks for your support. One of my next investments is to find lightweight 16x7 or 7.5 and decide the best tire size for that setup. :confused:
 

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Depends on if you need to alter the gearing of the car, Shorter tires then stock will effectively lower the final gearing of the car, giving you a bit of a boost in acceleration, at the cost of top speed (you'll be at a Higher RMP for any given MPH).

how wide you should go.. well that depends on how wide you can fit. Wider will give you more cornering traction at the cost of Acceleration and braking traction (Wider contact patches vs longer contact patches.) So it may take a bit of testing to find the best setup.
 

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Looks awesome! I learned this weekend at Road Atlanta a little trail braking will help the car rotate but be carefull... it can induce a slide if you don't get back in the gas! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
YellowDragon said:
Looks awesome! I learned this weekend at Road Atlanta a little trail braking will help the car rotate but be carefull... it can induce a slide if you don't get back in the gas! :)
I race for two years in a Neon Challenge car and thats the time I really understood what trailbraking really is and how you can make a front wheel car turn faster. It took me about one race to learn it. The difference between my "normal" racing style and learning to do this was around 1+ seconds and two pole positions :blah: in this class. I think it seems almost the same principle aplies to the RSX. At the beginning you feel a little uncomfortable but when you see your times and get more control out of it, you understand what is to really drive to the limit.
 

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That's cool.. You have it all under control then!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Trbiss said:
Which Cobalt Friction pads were you using?
I used the Sport GT which is like a street/race compound. I was really impressed with the performance but I'm working with Stoptech and Cobalt to find out why the rotors are like 'cristalize' even though I made the break in of both almost exactly as they recommended. I also plan to go to a higher compound but Cobalt jumps to a full race one for the RSX. I will keep you informed in the future. If you don't whant to be changing pads all the time you race, the Sports GT are a great buy.
 

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hey painoracing, how are the mugen sport suspensions holding up? at this point i am REALLY CONSIDERING it over teins for the simple fact that i want my car to be a fast street driven car, not a race spec one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
aonsoKuDC5 said:
hey painoracing, how are the mugen sport suspensions holding up? at this point i am REALLY CONSIDERING it over teins for the simple fact that i want my car to be a fast street driven car, not a race spec one.
If you want a "fast street driven car" that is your daily car, this suspension is it. I have it now for almost a year and it has been very consistent. I think it looks lowered than at the beginning but is completly balanced. Right now I have added strut bars and arm bars so is a little stiffer but the rebound and bounce characteristics are the same as new. I live in Puerto Rico and the streets here are awful so everyday a pray not to feel anything different from this excellent suspension...for now I havent. :nervous:
 

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I've had the Mugen SS for a year now and I totally agree. This is the best of both worlds: a fantastic setup for the street and the track. You can't adjust it, but since Mugen's experts spent two years dialing it in to perfection, why would you want to? At well under $1,700 for the Mugen SS and the Mugen front and rear bars, it's a real bargain. Add the Neuspeed X-brace and the car handles like the proverbial, "it's on rails!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Trbiss said:
I've had the Mugen SS for a year now and I totally agree. This is the best of both worlds: a fantastic setup for the street and the track. You can't adjust it, but since Mugen's experts spent two years dialing it in to perfection, why would you want to? At well under $1,700 for the Mugen SS and the Mugen front and rear bars, it's a real bargain. Add the Neuspeed X-brace and the car handles like the proverbial, "it's on rails!"
Thats true. If everyone could listen, nobody would spend so much money trying to find the right street-race suspension. I think some kind of adjustment would'nt be bad but I think you can't ask more about the job Mugen did with this spring/shock combo for the RSX. :thumbsup:
 

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Trbiss said:
I've had the Mugen SS for a year now and I totally agree. This is the best of both worlds: a fantastic setup for the street and the track. You can't adjust it, but since Mugen's experts spent two years dialing it in to perfection, why would you want to? At well under $1,700 for the Mugen SS and the Mugen front and rear bars, it's a real bargain. Add the Neuspeed X-brace and the car handles like the proverbial, "it's on rails!"
excellent.

i figure since i drive the rsx 90% on the street and 10% on the track. i really don't need to be re-adjusting the suspension settings every single time i hit the tracks, especially if it's at different road courses.

and i heard the install of the mugen suspension was as easy as taking out the stock ones and putting the mugen one's in.

however what do you guys think of the progress one? i've heard good things, but i don't know whether to get that or the mugen now. teins is out of the question.
 

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Zzyzx said:
.........how wide you should go.. well that depends on how wide you can fit. Wider will give you more cornering traction at the cost of Acceleration and braking traction (Wider contact patches vs longer contact patches.) So it may take a bit of testing to find the best setup.
I am confused. how does a wider tire reduces braking traction?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Trbiss said:
I'd like to try the spec vr's. Can you drive them to and from the track?
Of what I understand, the Spec VR is a full race pad that needs a good bedding process and a lot of temperature to work. I think it would be wise to change them in the track. You never now when you will have to use the brakes in the street. Thats what I liked about the Cobalt Sport Gt. They dont need a lot of temp and at the track did really well.
 
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