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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What was installed:
* ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate & 6-puck clutch disc
* ACT ProLite XACT flywheel
* Quaife torque-biasing differential

Preparation (looks a lot but it really is all not and some could be found around the house):
* Permatex Ultra Grey (I bought 2 tubes just in case)
* Good, diverse set of metric sockets which usually comes along with 12 point ones which will be needed for flywheel and clutch pressure plate bolts (and long neck socket for the side tranny mount nut on the very long studs which I don't remember the socket size); suprisingly the sizes were pretty consistent I noticed so I think there was only like total of 5 or 6 different sizes I kept using
* Jack and jackstands
* Engine hoist (at your descretion)
* 14MM hex/allen key to 3/8" or 1/2" (for cap on the tranny cover that covers the snap ring of countershaft)
* 36 MM socket to 1/2" or 3/8" (for spindle nut of wheels if you take this route; RENTED)
* Snap ring plier (at your descretion but would make your life easier)
* Shims (BIG maybe; OEM shim list sizes see "Misc Links" below)
* 2 carrier bearings (recommended; OEM part #91005-PPS-003)
* 1 throw out bearing (if your clutch kit didn't come with one; OEM part #22810-PPT-003)
* 2 or 3 claw bearing/gear puller (medium size but not needed if you rather have a machine shop do it; RENTED)
* Putty knife (at your descretion; a thin one and great to break and lighty scrape off the old hondabond)
* Pilot bushing remover (if you choose to replace this; RENTED)
* Pilot bushing (if you choose to replace this; OEM part #22103-PNA-003)
* Needle nose plier
* Angled feeler guages (need to go as small as 0.02 mm)
* Mechanix gloves
* Multi-purpose grease (I bought Valvoline DuraBlend Multi Purpose grease)
* Loc-tite threadlocker (blue)
* Teflon or vinyl tape (I used teflon) and masking tape
* Sharpie that marks as norm and on oily surfaces (yes, it exists ;) )
* Torque wrench (I just had 1/2"; RENTED)
* Simple ropes (to hold the main/countershaft and fork assembly as one)
* Zip-loc bags (to categorize your parts in)
* Clutch alignment tool (if it didn't come with your clutch kit: http://www.clutchtools.com/index.php?productID=37940)
* About 3 pieces of 2x4 wood
* OEM Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (I bought 4 quarts; 2 for first change & 2 for after differential break-in change)
* Little box of those multi-size cotter pins
* Zip ties (cheap way to ties things, hehe; loosely tie parts up and out of the way)
* Pump tool to refill your tranny with fluid (I heard people just using turkey basters since it does the same thing)
* Household rubbing alcohol (used some on a paper towel to clean the surface where I added the Ultra Grey and to clean up the the surface of the flywheel with oil residue from my hands)

Complications:
* When using the engine hoist, I cracked a nipple on the water outlet assembly which is part of the coolant system from the chain of the engine hoist so I had to buy a new one. You can't just buy the nipple piece per dealer but I'm not sure if this is truly the case. I just ended up buying another one. (I will show once I get the pictures up). OEM #19350-PRB-A00.
* When placing the tranny back in, the clutch slave cylinder's piston got caught and got pulled out. I pushed it back in to install it but I'm going to do a bleed in its best interest. My suggestion is to make sure it is out of the way to avoid any further tasks to do. This is really not a big deal but if it did come out, you can always just bleed it after you finish the install for a peace of mind.
* I identified that I had a bad ball joint on the passenger side so that needed to be replaced (NOT direct correlation to primary goal of this project).

Recommendation:
* The mainshaft and countershaft should be taken out as one assembly and there are no messing with gears. Be watchful of these and especially the shift forks as for they can fall apart easy.
* The carrier bearings which are on differential will come off with a standard puller but I say just get new ones for peace of mind.
* The carrier bearings as well as the speed gear should be installed with a press at a local machine shop.
* Be careful to not rip the rubber grommet for the lower ball joint when using a seperator.
* CRITICAL! Torque everything to specifications and check all cleareances for mainshaft and differential.
* Don't attempt install without the OEM repair manual unless you are a veteran at this type of work (this particular project was my first) and plus it will make your life easier
* Any openings to critical parts like the throttle body should be sealed off some how like using some paper towels.
* RENT THE SPECIALTY TOOLS AND ANYTHING ELSE! I saved so much money and I used AutoZone (others: Pep Boys, Advance Auto Parts, etc.) since they are free to rent. There are lots of local business that rent just about anything so just check the yellow pages.
* LOTS AND LOTS of time and patience! Plus, it can be fun and time for you and a bud to have some beers and work on it together. Speak of, thanks to Justin (Evil_Betty) for letting me borrower the engine hoist and to him and our other buddy, Tam, for the extra hand when I needed it to make certain times more manageable, and lastly DEFINITELY my fellow peeps in CRSX who helped me via thread questions or PMs (you know who you are :thumbsup: ).

Misc Links/Stuff (other things or thoughts by me that stemmed or related from this project):
* http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?p=12909614#post12909614 (minor complication during tranny reassembly)
* http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=446731 (shimming)
* http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=446789 (more on shimming)
* http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=442857 (differential upgrade info)
* http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=442857 (carrier bearings for differential)
* http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=RSX&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=3DR+TYPE-S&catcgry5=MT%2B%2B%2B%2B%2B%2BTRANSMISSION%2BCASE&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no (OEM shim sizes list)
* http://www.k-series.com/tech_detail.php?Tech_ID=EP_TRANS (walk-through of similar project but for Civic SI/EP3)
* http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp (nice site for getting OEM part info)

Notes:
* In the OEM repair manual, the final drive is indicated as reverse threads. They are standard threads for sure and this has been verified by others (see "Misc Links" for more info).
* From my research, most people didn't need to replace their shims when doing the differential swap nor did I have to.
* This is not a simple task but if you are organized and make note of the placement of everything such as with "self-created" code markings (you will see mine soon enough, hehe) or even take pictures of it before removing it, torque everything to spec, then I'm comfortable to say anybody with mechanical skills could handle this task.
* Air tools help for quickness but not really necessary.
* Biggest hurdle I ran into on this project are stubborn bolts, believe it or not.

Usually air tools or some extra "umph" (like with a breaker bar or just socket wrenches with leverage) will release them. I posted pictures up and provided tid-bits and such per picture to help everyone out BUT they will just be pointers of my experience but for your best reference tool is going to be the OEM repair manual.

I will be tweaking this post to perfection so just be cognitive of pending additional information until I say I'm totally done. I hope this helps many of you for future endeavors similar to this.

Please provide feedback/rep points if you are able to make use of this thread of mine.

Thanks for your patience!

Kiet
 

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any photos?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Here am I now jacking the car up to get it on jack stands as well as prepping the engine hoist to provide additional support. Some people would use it to hold the right side up of the engine but I prefered to use it to hoist the tranny by the hook on the tranny and used the engine hoist to lower and raise the tranny. It gave me better support as a single person doing this but as for the motor, I had a third jack stand that I used with a 2x4 piece of hood to support the engine right below of the oil pan. I placed it right in the middle (there is a obvious circle of flat surface on the oil pan) and there was no damage after I no longer needed to do this and removed it.


Kiet
 

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I ordered my trans parts the other day and will be doing this soon, what size pilot bearing puller do I need to get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Immediately taking the tranny cover off, this is what you see, all of the working internals! Place the tranny housing downward on 2 pieces of the wood I mentioned in my first post with the mainshaft in between the two woods. I used the putty knife to go around the tranny housing first to losen the hondabond before taking the tranny cover off and then used it to go around the edge of the tranny to scrape off the torn hondabond as best as I could to clean it up some as well as picked any out that I saw.


Kiet
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Removal of the speed gear. You are going to need to do this if you want to know how fast you are going, hehe. I recommend having a shop do this though since that gear could snap under TOO much pressure but the judgement base on your own confidence and experience is your call.


Kiet
 

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good Lord thats a lot of work... whats your address and i'll send you a case of beer for all this tech info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
good Lord thats a lot of work... whats your address and i'll send you a case of beer for all this tech info.
LOL, thanks for the nice offer but if you and anybody else can benefit from this, I'm just cool with that I could help.

I would like this to be a sticky once I finish it or something since the "tranny thread" is really bare compare to the other threads but I don't even know how people do this? :dontknow:

I should be done with this install info by this weekend. I have been dealing with a family emergency so you know what comes first. ;)



Thanks to all for the patience. :bow:
Kiet
 
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