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· expedite
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's the story. I had a shop put in my Toda N2 kit on June 14th.. Since then I had a cel (p0341) for camshaft position. My shop has hung me out to dry, and has not gotten back to me, nor has returned any of my phone calls in the last week. They screwed up the install in some way.

So today I called the local Acura dealer and plan on taking my car in. No, I am not going to ask for warranty service, even though I don't even have 20k miles on it, I fully expect to pay to get my car fixed....

But my question to the NA board gurus, is, do you think this is a big problem they will have to fix, or, could it possibly be some unplugged wire, etc... The car idles a little off, kind of wavers back and forth during the lower rpms, but hasn't stalled on me. The car refuses to rev above 7800 rpms despite the N2 flash.

Furthermore, I can't even take the car in for service till next week because, first I have to call the Acura service dept back in the morning, as the secretary couldn't even give me a solid answer if they'd do the work (though she said it wouldn't be a problem), and secondly, I have to get a rental car to drive across the state for my grandfather's wake/funeral tommorow. I don't want to take my car 400+ miles each way with the cel and this bum install.

I thank all of you for your help in advance. I'm not planning on opening anything up myself to check though, I'm gonna end up letting the dealer do it since I probably won't find another perfromance shop in the area.
 

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Dude that blows. I'd go back to the shop who did your work and demand they fix it. Camshaft position usually means they installed one of your cams off by a tooth (Meaning they're not aligned correctly) which will cause the driveability symptoms you've stated. Gay fawkers, go back and have the redo it. You should not have to pay your Acura dealer to redo it...it's major labor $$$. I don't know about the laws in the eastern US but here in Ca. we have B.A.R (Bureau of Automotive Repairs) that you can make a complaint to and when you do, BAR follows up very quickly making sure the a shop does not rip anybody off. Look into it to see if you guys have BAR offices you can call.
 

· expedite
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DavidT said:
I'd go back to the shop who did your work and demand they fix it.

Yeah, I went back the next day and they tried to adjust the timing chain, thinking it could be that... but get this, they didn't even know what the problem was, I went to autozone myself and had the code pulled.. the last I heard from them, they "said" had ordered a manual (helms I assume) to help out, that was a week ago... Wonder how they torqued my shit to spec without the manual....

My step mom works for a law firm, and I doccumented the whole misadventure (phone calls, etc), so I'm sure they'll get theirs. Plus I'll post up the shops name and the whole horror story on a few boards when this is all over. They'll get some bad press and no one with an RSX will ever go there again.

I really tried to get the shop to fix it, and kept calling them and calling them, leaving messages, etc, but after a week without hearing a thing. Fuck them. I'll go the Acura route. I gave this shop every oppertunity to make things right, but how long should I really have to sit on this problem?
 

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They might have mis-timed your camshafts when they installed it. If you just skipped one tooth, that could be 4-6 degrees off in cam timing, which could explain the rough idling.

In any case, do not rev the engine. Just drive normally until you can have it fixed. As long as they didn't mess up anything else during the installation process, you should be OK.

BTW, is your engine refusing to rev above 7800rpm under load or not under load?
 

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JDATC said:
It won't go above 7800 even if I redline the gears after the car is warmed up. VTEC fails to engage at all....
Hmmmmmmmmm.......

If you were in limp mode, then you probably can't even rev that high. Maybe because the camshaft position is so off that it's restricting airflow and choking the engine..... :dontknow:

I don't know. I think you shouldn't rev it so high.
 

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It sounds like they didn't line up the dots when installing the camshafts.

If you take it to the dealer, get the shop to pay for it. You don't want to be paying for their mistakes.
 

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which code are you pulling there is a code for the camshaft positioning sensor. mine wasnt re-installed properly and came out when i reveded the car really high due to the vibrations. in essance the ECU didnt know where the cams were and had no idea what kind of fuel/ignition curve to run as soon as my shop reinstalled the sensor through some locktite on that jammy and retimed it everything was copesthetic hope that helps ya
 

· expedite
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks all. That seems to be the concensus on the cams. Would that also affect the idle though? I thank you all for your input.

The people on here helping me > My Shop / Mechanics

oh, and it was a p0341 code.
 

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I had the same code when I had my cams installed, "camshaft sensor position error, out of range, engine may not be consuming fuel efficiently." One of the links on the chain is not on right, or is slipping. You need to get that fixed right away. The tech who did mines just adjusted the tensioner again and made sure every chain link was on the VTC cam gears' teeth. He said when putting the cam gears and chain back together, the VTC mecahnism is supposed to click into place. When you have this code, the ecu will try to compensate for the error, it will run rich, run hot and be in somewhat of a "limpmode."
 

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JDATC said:
Thanks all. That seems to be the concensus on the cams. Would that also affect the idle though? I thank you all for your input.

The people on here helping me > My Shop / Mechanics

oh, and it was a p0341 code.
If your camshaft is not physically timed correctly, and on top of that your ECU tries to make cam timing adjustments(btw, the ECU's camshaft timing adjustments are based on the proper base camshaft timing so if it is off by a tooth or two, that would through the cam timing off anywhere from 4-6 degrees to 10-12 degrees) and that will explain the rough idling. I don't know if the ECU will alter camshaft timing if a CEL code is thrown.

Believe me, if you misssed a couple of teeth on the cam sprocket, you would be lucky just to get the car started. That happened to me when I changed the camshafts on my 240SX. I missed it by 1 tooth and the car idled like shit!!!! I had to re-time the camshaft and then everything was OK.
 
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