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Weightlifting Master
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed Buddy Club RSDs with T1-R inverted tie rod ends and the problem is I had to turn the struts in to reach the tie rod ends to put the bolt through, this made my wheels point out \_/ I need to be able to get the wheels back straight and loosening the tie rod end won't get it done. Can the actual tie rod (NOT the ends) be adjust out farther so that I can still have my tie rod end threaded on securely but reach the Dampers?

Im dropped 2" in the front.
 

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Weightlifting Master
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3,311 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
bump for a badly needed answer, alignment guy said the tie rods being loosened along with the tie rod ends still wouldn't reach far enough to get to the strut with the wheel being straight. WTF is going on!?
 

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Weightlifting Master
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3,311 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maybe you were sent the wrong parts. Maybe someone else here can measure theirs for comparisson.
Yeah that could very well be possible, the BC were ordered from here but the t1-R were ordered from SSR which is on ephatch, maybe they sent me ep ones that are shorter for some reason??
 

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i use to do alignments for school and honda has recomended specs. like 0to -or+5 camber/toe, just as long as the other side is the same. caster the left side should be higher due to road crowns.and make sure the alignment guy does the back adjustments before the front,because if you do the front first and do the back the rear will set off the front adjustments,thus making you do it over again.
i have the inverted tie rod ends and my specs are
-2L-2Rtoe in the rear and -3L-3Rfront
-3L-3Rall around for camber
frnt caster 1.8L1.7R
but if you got blown shocks or really low pro tires that impact real hard your adjustments will be thrown off little by little.
 

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Mmm, 3rd lobe...
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Those sound like some pretty big toe-in numbers on a street car dcsleeper408. Aren't you scrubbing the shit out of your tires running like that?
 

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Weightlifting Master
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3,311 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i use to do alignments for school and honda has recomended specs. like 0to -or+5 camber/toe, just as long as the other side is the same. caster the left side should be higher due to road crowns.and make sure the alignment guy does the back adjustments before the front,because if you do the front first and do the back the rear will set off the front adjustments,thus making you do it over again.
i have the inverted tie rod ends and my specs are
-2L-2Rtoe in the rear and -3L-3Rfront
-3L-3Rall around for camber
frnt caster 1.8L1.7R
but if you got blown shocks or really low pro tires that impact real hard your adjustments will be thrown off little by little.
thanks for the info but I don't think your understanding my problem, I have brand new Buddy Club RSD's that I put on the car with inverted tie rod ends and neither he or I could get the toe even remotely close to zero, the tie rods won't reach out far enough to the steering arms on my dampers so in order to bolt them on the wheels must be turned out like this \ / to get the steering arms close enough to bolt the tie rod ends on. I dropped off the OEM tie rod ends and he said they make the matter even worse as in they shorten the distance even more because the ball joint is over the steering arm rather than under it. He hasn't even touched the rears yet but he shouldn't have a problem with them, camber is the only thing he needs to adjust in the rears but the fronts are way off.
 
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