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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everybody!

I have looked through other threads on this forum, but it is really hard to understand the issue since everyone's problem seem to be pretty individual. Here is what happened to my 05 base (a/t) with 160k miles:

The first time it didn't start:
https://goo.gl/photos/d7noyfESLhpB3vsZ8

Later attempts (it cranks even less):
https://goo.gl/photos/isggqs59WgTARJEW8

At first the car was starting just fine. At some point of time it would take a little longer to crank (maybe 2 seconds longer than usual). After another two weeks I would turn the key and the car wouldn't start. It felt like it got tired of cranking and just stopped "spinning" the starter. After a 1-2 minute wait it would start nevertheless.

Another week or so like that (it got worse and worse, especially on a rainy day, I noticed) and on a really humid morning after a strong rain it just never started. It would still try to crank at first and then "get tired". After another try it died completely (this was because of the worn ground wire, read below).

I checked:

- Battery. Took it to AutoZone, they said it's 99% charged and good.
- Spark plugs. I changed them 6,000 miles ago. After no start issue, when I was taking them out, I realized they were barely screwed in (I guess I was too careful when I installed them because I was scared to damage the aluminium cylinder head). I reinstalled them but it didn't help.
- Ground wire running from engine block to one of the bolts on the passenger side engine mount. It was very worn and I replaced it with a new one. Thought this was the issue; the power came back, but the car still wouldn't start).
- Fuel pump. I can hear a distinct "click" from behind the rear seats.
- Main relay. I can also hear a "click" somewhere from glove box.
The only code is P1078 and it's been there for a while now, can't think of how it can be related to this issue

The car is completely stock besides Innovative motor mounts. Can somebody please point me into the right direction to diagnose this problem? Can it be that because I didn't tighten the spark plugs enough, they went bad?

Thank you all for viewing this thread!
 

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Have you checked to confirm the positive terminal has a solid connection. If there is/was corrosion at some point you may need to replace it.

Regarding the P1078 code, have you tried reseting the ECM/PCM?
 

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Can you actually hear the fuel pump prime? Try map sensor
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you checked to confirm the positive terminal has a solid connection. If there is/was corrosion at some point you may need to replace it.

Regarding the P1078 code, have you tried reseting the ECM/PCM?
Hi. I made sure to check that battery connection is good. The bolt that holds the terminal was rusted, so I bought and installed a new one. Not at any point of time was there corrosion on the terminals.

Regarding P1078 - I haven't tried that. I only learned that it might be fixed by one of these parts:
• VALVE ASSEMBLY, ROTARY - ACURA (17120-PPA-A01)
• SENSOR ASSEMBLY, ANGLE - ACURA (37890-PND-A01)
• VALVE ASSEMBLY, BYPASS CONTROL SOLENOID - ACURA (36163-PND-A01)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can you actually hear the fuel pump prime? Try map sensor
I assume this would be a very short sound of the pump priming the fuel through the system? I'll try to listen to it, but I think I never heard this sound (or never paid attention to it).

For map sensor: do you suggest to replace it? (I guess there's nothing else one could do with it :hihi:
 

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Yes small humming sound will arise when turning the key and yes try another map sensor I hammer the screw while having the screwdriver in it then it should be easier to remove the screw holding it down..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update: ordered a new started, replaced it today, but screwed up with something, as usual: when taking the intake manifold off, I didn't disconnect one of the connectors all the way, which resulted in this:

It is from here:



My question is: do I have to buy a new connector now? Is this a type of connector where you insert the wires, but can't pull it back (unless you rip them off like I did)? I can push the wires back through those blue-ish rubbery holes and they kind of stay there and don't fall off...ugh, looking for advice here please!
 

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So, that's a water-proof connector which I would recommend replacing. You can usually order a replacement pigtail from Acura, which you just splice the wires together. They also sell the connectors, but you need the crimping tool for that style of crimp-on connector. You can find them here: https://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-parts/2005/acura/rsx-hatchback/base-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/electrical-exhaust-heater-fuel-cat/electrical-connector-fr-2-scat

I'd help you pick the right one, but your pic isn't showing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, that's a water-proof connector which I would recommend replacing. You can usually order a replacement pigtail from Acura, which you just splice the wires together. They also sell the connectors, but you need the crimping tool for that style of crimp-on connector. You can find them here: https://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-parts/2005/acura/rsx-hatchback/base-trim/5-speed-automatic-engine/electrical-exhaust-heater-fuel-cat/electrical-connector-fr-2-scat

I'd help you pick the right one, but your pic isn't showing.
Hi, thanks for the reply. I am thinking it's #17, but I tried calling them to make sure anyway (and they didn't know). I have attached photos below in a different way, you should see them now.
 

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Disconnect your fuel hose from the fuel rail, ask a buddy to turn the ignition key on but don't crank and see if the fuel flow is good. If the fuel flow is good, check your injectors or bring it to the service center to clean it.

If you are having hard time to fix the pigtail. you can always connect them directly to each other and tape it.
 

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Also, those three wires - are they supposed to have tiny crimps on the ends where they enter the connector or are they just wires pressed down by some little clip inside the connector? Watching youtube videos on how to reconnect connectors and I'm confused:confused:

Something like in this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znP_uZCak7M
So, yeah those little green circles you see on the wire side of the connector, which are rubber seals, would be around the wire insulation and then a crimp would be on the wire and around the rubber seal to hold it in place.
 

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Hi, thanks for the reply. I am thinking it's #17, but I tried calling them to make sure anyway (and they didn't know). I have attached photos below in a different way, you should see them now.
I'm not seeing the correct 3P connector, but if you follow the youtube video you posted you may be able to disassemble the connector, very carefully open the crimp enough to remove any remaining wire, then slide the end of the existing wire in and crimp the terminals back on.

Before you go reassembling the connector, I recommend grabbing the service manual here:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1233641

On 11-82 (page 373) the wiring diagram gives you the color and order of the wires for the "IMT (IMRC) Valve Position Sensor" and on 11-399 (page 690) you can find the correct order, left to right, of the wire positions specified in the aforementioned diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm not seeing the correct 3P connector, but if you follow the youtube video you posted you may be able to disassemble the connector, very carefully open the crimp enough to remove any remaining wire, then slide the end of the existing wire in and crimp the terminals back on.

Before you go reassembling the connector, I recommend grabbing the service manual here:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=1233641

On 11-82 (page 373) the wiring diagram gives you the color and order of the wires for the "IMT (IMRC) Valve Position Sensor" and on 11-399 (page 690) you can find the correct order, left to right, of the wire positions specified in the aforementioned diagram.
Thanks for a detailed answer! Will try to dissassemble the connector and see if I can extract that crimp from the connector and reuse it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I was able to disassemble the connector and get the pigtails out (see the attached photos).

I can't however open the crimp enough to get the piece of wire out (the crimp is ridiculously tiny). I also can't find a place to buy correct pigtails (all workers at electrical supplies stores I've been to made a very surprised face).

Does anybody know the part number from Acura or where to get new pigtails of this size? Or would it be easier to solder the end of the wires to the end of pigtails and shrink wrap them?
 

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You can certainly solder them to any metal portion of the connector. I'd lay the bare wire right in the groove in between the two crimp ears. Make sure to heat the connector with the iron; not the solder. Let it cool on its own. Wrap with electrical tape and heat shrink over that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You can certainly solder them to any metal portion of the connector. I'd lay the bare wire right in the groove in between the two crimp ears. Make sure to heat the connector with the iron; not the solder. Let it cool on its own. Wrap with electrical tape and heat shrink over that.
Thanks for the advice! Will try it this weekend!
 
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