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Discussion Starter #1
like the title says which of these twos headers would you guys recommend? Is a PLM header really worth 100$ more than a obx header?
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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They *seem* to make more power, but it's marginal. For most intents and purposes, you'll be just as well off with the OBX, and possibly even more so, since many PLM headers leak and they always hang real low.

Honestly if I could do it over again, I would've gone with a solid one like Invidia (double the price though). Depends what you're looking to get out of it

edit: oh, shoot! OBX is solid? Dang, just do it then, lol
 

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My PLM header tuned gained me +24hp +20tq
Numbers before header - 190hp, 158tq
After header- 214hp , 178tq

Mods- k24a2, custom 3" intake, PLM header, custom 3" exhaust piping to Megan drift spec exhaust. Stock 25* VTC, RBB manifold

I really like this header the welds and fabrication are perfect and for the price you can't beat it. To fix the "leaking" issue, a vibrant gasket should be used. I have no leaks up until now and I had the header for almost 6 months with the test pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They *seem* to make more power, but it's marginal. For most intents and purposes, you'll be just as well off with the OBX, and possibly even more so, since many PLM headers leak and they always hang real low.

Honestly if I could do it over again, I would've gone with a solid one like Invidia (double the price though). Depends what you're looking to get out of it

edit: oh, shoot! OBX is solid? Dang, just do it then, lol
owned my RSX for about 3 years with stock power mods and i recently broke my cat due to low life problems lol so i figured its time time for a racing header but i have being considering a obx since haven't read anything negative about them
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My PLM header tuned gained me +24hp +20tq
Numbers before header - 190hp, 158tq
After header- 214hp , 178tq

Mods- k24a2, custom 3" intake, PLM header, custom 3" exhaust piping to Megan drift spec exhaust. Stock 25* VTC, RBB manifold

I really like this header the welds and fabrication are perfect and for the price you can't beat it. To fix the "leaking" issue, a vibrant gasket should be used. I have no leaks up until now and I had the header for almost 6 months with the test pipe.
Which gasket from them? Can you give me a link to it?
 

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1. Having smaller diameter piping is usually a bad thing. Less air flow means less power. Why spend the money to gain nothing?

2. Being "known to crack" is a bad thing. Points to poor build quality. Why spend the money on something that's likely to fail on you before long, when what you've got is perfectly solid?

Simply replace your broken cat with standard exhaust pipe. Costs about $90 at an exhaust shop, and since the cat is actually worth something to a recycler, you'll be able to get some of that money back. If you want to gain power, don't get something that isn't an improvement over stock.
 

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1. Having smaller diameter piping is usually a bad thing. Less air flow means less power. Why spend the money to gain nothing?

2. Being "known to crack" is a bad thing. Points to poor build quality. Why spend the money on something that's likely to fail on you before long, when what you've got is perfectly solid?

Simply replace your broken cat with standard exhaust pipe. Costs about $90 at an exhaust shop, and since the cat is actually worth something to a recycler, you'll be able to get some of that money back. If you want to gain power, don't get something that isn't an improvement over stock.
thats what i meant in my post. as far as price i was referring to the PLM only costing $350 now instead of 500 earlier in the year. the PLM is a huge step over stock system.i made 202 with exhaust and RH only on a basemap. after tuned and an RBC i was making 216.

theres a huge number of old discussion threads on the OBX RH.
 

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I can only speak from my experiences and say this.

The PLM headers truly do make good power for the price. I made 220/160 with bolt-ons tuned, on a 05 RSX.
 

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I know this is an old thread but here is a little new info for people looking at the obx header. Just got the obx v2 race header a couple weeks ago. Read mixed reviews but went with them anyway. So far, so good. Install and fitment are fine. Did not need to change my front swaybar or get o2 wire extensions. Did buy the defouler even though I have kpro. No CEL. Wrapped them in titanium heat wrap. That might be why I have heard no banging or noise from them hitting something. With that said, still running stock motor mounts also. Maybe I got lucky or not. I did have a couple issues. No gasket or hardware to attach to exhaust flange. For some reason obx didn't bore out the holes enough for the hardware to connect collector to the down pipe or supplied too big of bolts. Trip to the local hardware store cured that. Slight annoyance. Also the manifold gasket was sh#@! Just reused oem. No leaks. Fitment states bolts up to stock exhaust. I do not have a stock exhaust. Flanges matched up great but extra i.d. material in the down pipe flange opening is giving me some funny vaccuum like noise. Also no big deal. I will remove the down pipe and dremel the material out. I would buy these again.
 

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05 Type S RH Reflash LSD
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Great input! Some people say you don't actually need upgraded motor mounts because the header collector has a donut gasket / bell connection but I don't know :dontknow:
Anyways, titanium heat wrap?! wow! :eek:
Good supplied hardware is hard to come by nowadays. 'Tis stupid.
Are you sure the vacuum sound isn't thee most desirable header scavenging sound?! I love that sound, like this: https://youtu.be/n60a_Sulm3c?t=27s :love:
 

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IronGumby always with the helpful info. :fistbump: Respect.

and yeah just to add to the topic when it comes to OBX vs PLM. it should read 'OBX V2' VS PLM. the original OBX is more comparable to Megan or DC, and PLM is for sure an upgrade over those.

I made 226/156 I think on megan with 2.5" piping. then 238/172 with PLM same dyno.

as far as mounts or inserts go it's always more of a preventative measure than requirement. the flex at the collector isnt as bad because of the donut but there can also be flex where the runners meet the head. and that's where the weld and build quality come into play. As for me, i fitted the header pieces as snug as I can and had them welded to prevent any slippage that could lead to a future leak. 4 years on this header without a single problem.
 
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