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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i'm pleased to announce that my oil analysis results are finally in. i'm telling you, this mobil 1 0w-30 oil is great stuff. i also discovered that the stp filter is a very good one! again, champion laboratories is the manufacturer of the oil filters from mobil 1, bosch, and stp.

the reason i did this oil analysis was to compare stp's similar filter to that of mobil 1's. the difference in price between the two is around $7-$9! since both are similar in craftsmanship from champion laboratories, i thought it would be worth my time to find out if i can save that much more money if the cheaper stp can perform just as well. it looks like it did, if not a little better!

see below for yourself!

the facts:

oil: mobil 1 0w-30
oil filter: stp
air filter: injen cotton gauze
mileage on car: 25,000mi
mileage on oil: 5070mi
oil added between oil changes: 1 QT.



another thing..look at my oxidation, nitration, and TBN values on the right-hand side. TBN is at an 8!!!!! is this not making sense? well simply, if an oil's TBN value reaches 2, it means that the oil has sheared out of grade and IT IS TIME TO CHANGE OIL. i know that a lot of you are worried about going over 5000miles because you think your engine will be ruined. because my TBN is high, there's still plenty of life left in the oil for me to keep driving. i may start changing oil every 7500-10000 miles now. keep in mind that i VTEC the crap out of my car too! LOL.


note the two different oil analyses. the first oil test was done last year. it's boxed in red. the latest test is boxed in green. my wear metal numbers are even lower this time!

if you are new to this, compare the wear metal numbers in my analyses above with this guidance chart below:




virgin oil analysis of mobil 1:
Viscosity 0W-30 5W-30 10W-30 0W-40 15W-50
aluminum 0 0 0 1 0
chromium 0 0 0 0 0
iron 1 2 1 2 2
copper 0 0 0 0 0
lead 0 0 0 0 0
tin 0 0 0 0 0
molybdenum75 68 69 72 69
nickel 0 0 0 0 0
managanese0 0 0 0 0
silver 0 0 0 0 0
titanium 0 0 0 0 0
potassium 0 0 0 0 0
boron 182 120 190 186 176
silicon 4 4 3 4 8
sodium 8 7 9 6 8
calcium 2666 2649 2976 3243 2339
magnesium 18 18 16 13 18
phosphorus847 737 749 808 1072
zinc 955 819 827 976 1175
barium 0 0 0 0 0
vis @ 210 61.8 60.3 58.3 72.7 89.1
flash point 445 430 430 465 445
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

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Where do you get this oil filter anyways? And do they have one that is specifically sized for the type S ? or is it an oversize?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
nugenx said:
Where do you get this oil filter anyways? And do they have one that is specifically sized for the type S ? or is it an oversize?

Thanks
mobil 1, bosch, stp, k&n, wix, hamp, etc., all have exact size oil filters for the Type S.

i know for a fact that with mobil 1, you can get the m1-104 filter which is designed for the older model integra. it's a little bigger and fits the Type S. supposedly, it filters better because of the increased surface filter area. IMO, it is not necessary to buy. just stay with the ones designed for the k20a2 or k20a3.
 

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Hey, thanks for doing these oil analysis! I'm using Mobil 1 because of you. ;)

Can someone please explain to me the 2nd chart with the "physical properties" and "additional tests"?
 

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i-vtec.Do you?
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Where can i do a oil analysis.I want to do one on my oil redline and i use a hamp filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
[DC530] said:
Hey, thanks for doing these oil analysis! I'm using Mobil 1 because of you. ;)

Can someone please explain to me the 2nd chart with the "physical properties" and "additional tests"?
i know a little about the physical properties part. you should really ask jay about this one. i'm not much of an expert like he is :D. anyway, i'll talk about what i know.

notice that my fuel content contains less than 1 part per million (ppm). that's good because fuel in an engine oil will THIN the oil over time. decreased viscosity is very harmful because you will lack the lubrication necessary to protect the engine. remember, oil has 2 BIG purposes: to lubricate the engine and to cool the engine. the goal is to minimize metal to metal contact as best as possible. as far as cooling goes, did you know that engine coolant is responsible for only 60% of the total cooling?

water contained in oil leads to the formation of rust deposits. this also leads to increased engine wear.

increased engine wear = less power due to less compression = higher fuel consumption.

with regards to the "additional tests" portion, i've already explained the TBN value. for the nitration and oxidation values, if these numbers reach 50, it is time to change the oil because of the amount of harmful deposits present in the oil. my nitration/oxidation numbers are low in both tests, at only 19 and 28/29.

where do deposits come from?

the outer layers of any oil, pure synthetic or regular, will "boil off" to a certain extent due to high heat, especially during hard driving. the nice thing about synthetic oil is that it naturally RESISTS thermal stress. regular oil contains impurities such as nitrogen and sulfur. pure synthetic oil does not. when the outer layers of the oil boil off, it leaves these impurities exposed directly to the heat. the chemical reaction between the heat and these impurities result in the formation of sludge. sludge is a major contributor to engine wear. i'm sure a lot of you have heard of sludge deposits in engines.
 

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i have used stp filter on my last oil change b/c i read that u were trying it out and and u said it was made from the same company as M1.
well i wouldn't argue that the stp filter would filter oil just as good as the m1 filter but the quality is shit. during my oil change i had a very hard time taking off the filter. i used 3 different oil filter tools to take it off and it wouldn't come off. so i decieded to just drill a hole through the filter and use a screw driver to take it off (have done this with M1 filters and it worked fine). it seems the stp's outer shell is soooo weak that i ripped the whole thing apart into 3 peices.
so i went to my local autozone where i bought the filter and i wanted to see the differences in the shell from m1 and stp. i put the stp in between my hands and tried to crush it and surely enough i did, compared to the m1 which i couldn't do anything to it.
all i'm saying is its not worth it to me for a $2-3 filter that is weak and will give problems if i can't take it off. i have no idea how it got torque down like that either b/c i always handtighten my filter and grease up the gasket.

this link has pic of my stp filter...12th post
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=144207
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
wow that sucks. well, i'm currently back to using a mobil 1 oil filter for this oil change interval only because i have an extra one. when i use stp again, i'll make sure to not tighten it too much to where i can't take it off during the next oil change.
 

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i guess this also shows (again) that an aftermarket cotton-gauze filter is perfectly safe to use on the street, your engine does not ingest an increased amount of dirt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
rsxmachine said:
i guess this also shows (again) that an aftermarket cotton-gauze filter is perfectly safe to use on the street, your engine does not ingest an increased amount of dirt.
ya..i have no clue why.

however, if i lived in the desert, i'd probably use a foam filter. but then again, who knows?
 

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sensation612 said:
well i wouldn't argue that the stp filter would filter oil just as good as the m1 filter but the quality is shit. during my oil change i had a very hard time taking off the filter. i used 3 different oil filter tools to take it off and it wouldn't come off. so i decieded to just drill a hole through the filter and use a screw driver to take it off (have done this with M1 filters and it worked fine). it seems the stp's outer shell is soooo weak that i ripped the whole thing apart into 3 peices.
so i went to my local autozone where i bought the filter and i wanted to see the differences in the shell from m1 and stp. i put the stp in between my hands and tried to crush it and surely enough i did, compared to the m1 which i couldn't do anything to it.
all i'm saying is its not worth it to me for a $2-3 filter that is weak and will give problems if i can't take it off. i have no idea how it got torque down like that either b/c i always handtighten my filter and grease up the gasket.
This is why I was thinking about trying a K&N oil filter. I have read some good reviews on them and they come with the nut on the end of the filter so you can install/remove it with a normal socket.

Anyone tried K&N filters?
 

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HAMP HAMP HAMP HAMP hehe
 

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Thanks for the great info on the oil analysis. I've been running the mobil 0w-30 for the last two oil changes. Your results make me feel confident in my choice of the mobil 1 oil and filter.
 

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Thanks for the analysis. I switched from the M1 filters to the K&N filter. Now I am curious to try out the STP. BTW what engine mods have you done since the change before?
 

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Thanks for the info bro. I have also started using 0W-30 after reading your threads. Do you ever intend to get the M1 Racing 0W-30 and have that analyzed?
 
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